New to me F3680, first use and impressions

[JOHNTHOMAS]

The F2680e I'm trading has very aggressive ag tires that I don't like or need. The in between owner thought he could make it go like a 4wd with the ag tires but alas it didn't happen and Barlows took the F back and by then I was ready to buy it back which I did. I now have both sets pf tires.

 

[TailDragon]

JC after thinking about your front deck wheel spinning, is the spring assist locked forward as when you flip the deck or unlocked, I forgot the 72 inch deck has one.

 

[jcummins]

I think it was locked forward. However I do bump the deck up around ditches/etc, so operator error is not out of the question.

I've changed the deck height. I've also removed the 275lbs on the rear, and that might 'plant' the deck firmer to the ground. So I'll be observant of how these changes impact things on this next mowing coming up as soon as we dry out, most likely Monday.

 

[jcummins]

Finally dry weather. Haven't been able to mow, simply to wet.

For those interested.

My gyrating gauge wheel still gyrates. I think that nut on the wheel is a tensioner, and it simply isn't doing the job. I took the nut out, spring inside....and both tensioners, if that is what they are, are bottom out on both gauge wheels. Going to talk to the dealer about that.

Removing the 275lbs of weight, I really can't detect any difference at all. There may...be a slight improvement on side hilling, but if there is, it's slight. I think non turf tires are in my future at some point.

I raised the deck to my preferred cutting height which is where I mowed with the ZD326. I think the cut quality is better with this F series than the ZD. Both good, but F better, and with a 72" deck that surprises me.

I get less clippings blowed on me with the F, I think because the deck is out front more. Also the ZD got a heavy amount of clippings build up on the deck. The F has almost none. The F stays cleaner than the ZD did.

My wife is still complaining about clippings in various areas of the landscape....and I agree. Same problem with the ZD. I'm hoping to find or build a chute blocker that I can close as I go by those areas to avoid that.

On balance, I like this F much better than the ZD. Glad I traded.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

On balance, I like this F much better than the ZD. Glad I traded.
That's what it's all about.:thumbsup::thumbsup::cool2::drink:

 

[johncar]

Yeah that tensioner on your front mower deck wheels comprises of a bolt, lock nut, spring and ball bearing. The wheels spindle shaft has a corresponding indent for the ball bearing to locate into facing the rearward side of the wheel so that the wheel should spin freely until it hits that indent and under normal circumstances not continue to freely rotate . As the bushes and shaft wear the action of this device will become less effective or not at all. So depending on yourself, if you are like me and prefer to have things working properly, there may need some repairs, replacement and maintenance done to fix them.

It still makes me wonder though why you have one of the other wheel off the ground when mowing. When the deck control lever is pushed fully forwards the deck should be on the ground and in a float position and therefore much of the decks weight is supposed to ride on those two front wheels. The deck is supposed to move within limits independently of the tractor in both axis.
I have very rough and undulating ground here and the both front on the mower deck are 99% on the ground so very little opportunity to gyrate around. So I think that there must be a problem either with the hydraulics or the spring tensioners or other setup error on the deck to cause that issue.

I took my rear counter weight off a couple of days back and although I didn't weigh it, I could lift and carry with a bit of grunting it so I think in the vicinity of 80 - 100lbs.
If your deck is not fully floating it may also be still putting extra weight on the lifting arms and therefore taking weight off your steering too, which is not desireable. Just a possibility.

 

[jcummins]

So depending on yourself, if you are like me and prefer to have things working properly, there may need some repairs, replacement and maintenance done to fix them......But how do you get into it. Seems sealed up.

You may be right on less weight on that wheel....but....this issue occurs after I make a sharp turn, or I'm going fast. In low range doesn't do it much. Just looking at it, I think it's been occurring for awhile, the wheel seems a tad looser than the other one. I'll be taking a closer look at it.

 

[johncar]

Just remove the pin that holds the wheel assembly in place on the main frame and remove the whole wheel assembly. Loosen the lock nut and bolt on the wheel anti spin device so that it is not pressuring the spring and ball onto the shaft. Try and not loose the ball bearing as it is just loose in there once the wheel shaft comes out. If it is well greased it should stay in place once the spring is backed off.
Turn it upside down and look at the bottom end of the spindle/shaft and you should see a circlip on the end. remove the circlip and the shaft should slide straight out of the fork section that holds the wheel. Clean it all up and you should see the upper and lower bushings in the fork piece either side of the grease nipple and you can measure the amount of freeplay in the bearing/bushes and check the wear on the shaft centering indent. Ideally there should be negligible freeplay but I would assume that there is a fair amount unless it is a near new machine or recently all serviced.

Please note that one of the circlips on mine is just about all worn away which is likely to happen with a chronic gyration happening so you may have a similar issue.

The weight of the deck is supposed to be mostly on the front gauge wheels regardless of speed or turns. My place is just to rough to mow in anything other than low range so I can't really comment what would happen at higher speeds, but they virtually never leave the ground in low range.

 

[Rip]

Just had a chance to read this thread from the beginning......the deck height and level depends mostly on how the rear links are set and that is easier-said-then-done. Not really hard, just not all that intuitive and somewhat difficult to see ......bit of playing around with a small trolley-jack (cheap Chinese Harbor Freight type work well) and you will find the sweet-spot. Then I would just leave it there if you can.

J Cummings sounds like the ball is missing from your from gauge-wheel spindles, but the main issue probably the deck not sitting or "hanging level". I recently had to completely rebuild one of my front gauge-wheel units, but the other is still OK.

I routinely use the Diff-Lock pedal (on the left) and also lock & unlock the 4WD as needed......both make quite a difference depending on situation. The Diff-Lock is a square-cut gear deal, so have to be persistent, but gentle with it several times to get it to engage.....do not force.

My hydrostatic whines also.....I wear ear plugs. I mow in Low range & WOT most of the time.

I am pretty sure the bushings in my rear axle were bronze....do not recall any synthetic or plastic, but could be wrong. My machine does crab a bit on cross-sidehills, so am careful doing that along one fence line.

Yes the steering is quick and the rear can swing around like an angry crocodile! It moves like a fork-lift, but quicker. I used to have an articulated PowerTrac and the ONLY way to drive it was with a wheel-spinner knob.....I thought of getting one for the F, but do not need it.

Good to see more folks getting on the F-series band-wagon....they are great machines (I do know there are other similar front-mowers out there - JD, NH, Iseki, Toro, etc).

Cheers, Rip

 

[jcummins]

Just had a chance to read this thread from the beginning......the deck height and level depends mostly on how the rear links are set and that is easier-said-then-done. Not really hard, just not all that intuitive and somewhat difficult to see ......bit of playing around with a small trolley-jack (cheap Chinese Harbor Freight type work well) and you will find the sweet-spot. Then I would just leave it there if you can.

J Cummings sounds like the ball is missing from your from gauge-wheel spindles, but the main issue probably the deck not sitting or "hanging level". I recently had to completely rebuild one of my front gauge-wheel units, but the other is still OK.

I routinely use the Diff-Lock pedal (on the left) and also lock & unlock the 4WD as needed......both make quite a difference depending on situation. The Diff-Lock is a square-cut gear deal, so have to be persistent, but gentle with it several times to get it to engage.....do not force.

My hydrostatic whines also.....I wear ear plugs. I mow in Low range & WOT most of the time.

I am pretty sure the bushings in my rear axle were bronze....do not recall any synthetic or plastic, but could be wrong. My machine does crab a bit on cross-sidehills, so am careful doing that along one fence line.

Yes the steering is quick and the rear can swing around like an angry crocodile! It moves like a fork-lift, but quicker. I used to have an articulated PowerTrac and the ONLY way to drive it was with a wheel-spinner knob.....I thought of getting one for the F, but do not need it.

Good to see more folks getting on the F-series band-wagon....they are great machines (I do know there are other similar front-mowers out there - JD, NH, Iseki, Toro, etc).

Cheers, Rip

I went over the deck adjustments pretty close. The deck/blades are level. Everything looks normal. I took the adjuster nut off on the gauge wheel, and the spring out....a lot of grease, perhaps the ball was stuck in there, but it did not come out. I wondered about that. Should that ball come out from where the adjuster is, or do I have to take the whole thing apart? Perhaps I should take a look at the other one.

Since the deck is level, cut is good, I hesitate doing any further adjustments to the height mechanisms....BUT.....I found the left deck side is firmly planted on the ground, the right side is not. I can manually lift the right side up, cannot lift the left side. Not sure why that is, but it appears it could be part or all of the issue. I may experiment by putting a couple more washers under the lift rods. Are the lift rods there for putting pressure down?...or for rear height adjustments? Seems it may be both.

Getting use to the whine. I'm back and forth between low/high range. Close to the house with a lot of obstacles in the yard, low range. Elsewhere in high range, and not too far from WOT...seldom can I go all out though...to rough. And the steep stuff in low range.