DIY Mini Digger

Colcreate · Aug 5, 2015

Valve block from a Massey Ferguson backhoe.
View attachment 436377
http://www.avonsearider.co.uk/images/digger/spoolvalve6.jpg

boggen · Aug 5, 2015

wow! your just bam, bam thank you mam at this!

initially looking are you going to be able to swing that boom 180 degrees? 90 degrees left, + 90 degrees right? it does not seem like you have enough room for your swing cylinders to operate. i see the spacing between the main frame, were swing cylinders most likely going to go. but overall width and height. seems like you are really hurting for space.

it also looks like you got a lot of slack in some of them connection points more pins that handle swinging left to right. a couple times putting backhoe bucket down and trying to slide dirt back into trench, and i would worry about bending some metal...

Colcreate · Aug 5, 2015

boggen said:
wow! your just bam, bam thank you mam at this!

initially looking are you going to be able to swing that boom 180 degrees? 90 degrees left, + 90 degrees right? it does not seem like you have enough room for your swing cylinders to operate. i see the spacing between the main frame, were swing cylinders most likely going to go. but overall width and height. seems like you are really hurting for space.

it also looks like you got a lot of slack in some of them connection points more pins that handle swinging left to right. a couple times putting backhoe bucket down and trying to slide dirt back into trench, and i would worry about bending some metal...

Thanks for the comments, I was thinking no one was interested....
Space is tight but you can just see one of the 2 slew rams in the photo, there is enough room to make it work 180.
Not sure what you mean by slack in the connection points the bushes were reamed for the pins to fit? If you mean lateral movement, the bushes pass through the sections and bear on mating faces. The bottom of the pivot bushes bear on hardened steel shim washers with just a few thou clearance. I've looked at a few homebuilt designs and think this is at least as strong as most.

ptsg · Aug 5, 2015

Of course we are interested, please don't stop updating the thread! You are doing a wonderful job! It reminds me when I built mine. Good memories tho. Keep up the good work and keep showing us the progress!

boggen · Aug 5, 2015

most build threads do not get a whole lot of comments. i would not let it bother you much. to note it you figured out majorly of the stuff already. or have a very good idea of stuff. and not really asking question but more of posting of work as you go along. i really don't like posting on these type of threads myself. due to cluttering them up. and i might cause an issue, that really is not an issue, due to my own lack of knowledge. ((open mouth insert foot type of thing))

still having issues with uploading pictures. to lazy to upload them some place else.

i was hoping to show a edited picture of yours . not sure what name / call parts...
to note it.... when i went out to look for a TLB (tractor loader backhoe) i went out and looked at i think 14 units all in same day, all of them were used older units. most of them all showed the same issue. of were pins / holes / bushing wore out and brackets bent.

your boom cylinder, and boom frame pins are ok. it is the brackets on the main frame, that allows pivit from the swing cylinders. that you might want to beef up. not in strength but overall thickness. and width along the main frame. right now you have what looks like 4 square pieces welded, and a hole drilled through them. i would push for more of a trapezoid or an oval shape piece of metal. and thicker of the 4 pieces.

the backhoe is going to act like a large pry bar, and will just tweak and twist those 4 square pieces is what i am going to guess. without much use of the backhoe. other words further you get away from the backhoe bucket itself and closer to tractor / machine itself. more beefer you need to get. and right now it looks like a weak link. you know more about metal / welding than i do. (i'am dummy to it) just overall just seems like a weak point.

Colcreate · Aug 5, 2015

Thanks for the encouragement PTSG.
I'll keep updating and would add more detail if I could attach images like in the earlier posts!
There seems to be a problem with the forum or maybe I have max'd out the allowance for number of images??
Not being able to include images in the posts and having to host them off-site is a real pain so I'm only including the highlights so to speak.

Colcreate · Aug 5, 2015

Ah gotcha Ryan, I see what you mean.
The bottom plate is 3/4 thick x 4" and extends underneath and overlaps the rear chassis crossmember channel. I had to preheat it all before welding.
The upper plate of the bottom mount is 1/2 thick x 4" and passes through a 'letterbox slot' I cut in the channel and is gusseted to the channel sides so again the twisting forces are spread into the rear chassis crossmember. Likewise with the upper pair of 1/2" plates, they pass through slots in the channel face and are welded both sides and will be braced with 1/2" thick plate before I box in the open channel face. I'll post a photo of this if the forum sorts out the image attachment issues....
The two vertical channels either side will be gusseted back to the main chassis rails and down to the rear axle once I figure out where my feet are going to go....
The slew rams will be below a false floor and as you pointed out earlier there is not a lot of space.

boggen · Aug 5, 2015

Colcreate said:
Ah gotcha Ryan, I see what you mean.
The bottom plate is 3/4 thick x 4" and extends underneath and overlaps the rear chassis crossmember channel. I had to preheat it all before welding.
The upper plate of the bottom mount is 1/2 thick x 4" and passes through a 'letterbox slot' I cut in the channel and is gusseted to the channel sides so again the twisting forces are spread into the rear chassis crossmember. Likewise with the upper pair of 1/2" plates, they pass through slots in the channel face and are welded both sides and will be braced with 1/2" thick plate before I box in the open channel face. I'll post a photo of this if the forum sorts out the image attachment issues....
The two vertical channels either side will be gusseted back to the main chassis rails and down to the rear axle once I figure out where my feet are going to go....
The slew rams will be below a false floor and as you pointed out earlier there is not a lot of space.

you have inside the frame work done and over with for the 4 pieces. but it is the 4 pieces that stick out. the edges furthest away from the machine of these 4 pieces that are more likely to "bend / warp / stretch" kinda opening up like your mouth / jaw opening. causing slop to happen in your holes / bushing / pins. maybe some sort of triangle brackets or like added in. once you figure out your swing cylinder and out riggers go.

once i went out and looked at those initial 14 TLB. i have since looked at TLB's out on road ways say for local township / county, and i can see slop / bending / warping in the same area. and these are newer units.

EDIT ATTACHED PICTURE