Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist?

   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist? #91  
I'm thinking it would be better than my current grading machine (my tractor) for rough grading and building elevations. I have built up a network of contractors who use me for their building sites... And that list keeps growing. $10k would pay itself off in less than two years (most likely).

Am I off base to think a small dozer would be a better grader than my tractor?

No doubt a small dozer would be better in many applications. But have you optimized your tractor with a serious hydraulic box scraper with top and tilt? I'm talking about a $3500 heavy duty "real guy" box that has a lot of weight. A 4G2-84 weighs 1260lbs. If you are not already set up like that, it may be a good interim step until you decide to put that F450 to work and haul a real trailer. :)
 
   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist?
  • Thread Starter
#92  
No doubt a small dozer would be better in many applications. But have you optimized your tractor with a serious hydraulic box scraper with top and tilt? I'm talking about a $3500 heavy duty "real guy" box that has a lot of weight. A 4G2-84 weighs 1260lbs. If you are not already set up like that, it may be a good interim step until you decide to put that F450 to work and haul a real trailer. :)

No doubt a "real" box blade would be better than my current 84" one, which weighs around 700lbs. But I don't know if my tractor is strong enough to actually effectively handle a construction grade box. Not only that, I have found that building side slopes with a box (using the "tilt" option) isn't efficient. Could be because I don't have down pressure.

I wish I could throw tracks on my tractor, thought about getting a front blade, but as it is, I don't have much "pushing" traction.
 
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   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist? #93  
No doubt a "real" box blade would be better than my current 84" one, which weighs around 700lbs. But I don't know if my tractor is strong enough to actually effectively handle a construction grade box. Not only that, I have found that building side slopes with a box (using the "tilt" option) isn't efficient. Could be because I don't have down pressure.

I wish I could throw tracks on my tractor, right about getting a front blade, but as it is, I don't have much "pushing" traction.

Good points. A front blade on a front end loader, if used like a dozer will in time damage the loader arms or mounts or worse. A front loader on a farm/utility tractor is meant to load and scoop, not to push hard all day long. If you look at a skid-steer, when the arms are down low where you would push hard (like a dozer), they are resting against pads on the loader frame. That shares the load, not all forces are on the pins/frame, but even if they were a skid-steer frame is very robust and can take a beating. If you look at a construction skip-loader front loader, you will see they are built to dig, not just load. As good as a tractor as the 1652 is, and it is a good one, I'd not try to make the front loader a dozer. If you did have the traction you desire (dreaming of tracks), you would tear up that tractor.

So we are back around to a small dozer being a good idea! BTW, I found that a dozer attachment on a skid-steer was hard to operate. Maybe a lack of skill on my part, but I do way better with a small dozer than a skid-steer with a dozer attachment.

One other option that a lot of guys do, is they sublet the hauling to someone else and they just put that against every job. If you get a good connection, you may be able to have a small dozer (like a D3) pickup up and moved locally for $125 +/- depending on miles. You just add that mobilization charge into each bid, letting the customer pay for it.
 
   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist?
  • Thread Starter
#94  
Good points. A front blade on a front end loader, if used like a dozer will in time damage the loader arms or mounts or worse. A front loader on a farm/utility tractor is meant to load and scoop, not to push hard all day long. If you look at a skid-steer, when the arms are down low where you would push hard (like a dozer), they are resting against pads on the loader frame. That shares the load, not all forces are on the pins/frame, but even if they were a skid-steer frame is very robust and can take a beating. If you look at a construction skip-loader front loader, you will see they are built to dig, not just load. As good as a tractor as the 1652 is, and it is a good one, I'd not try to make the front loader a dozer. If you did have the traction you desire (dreaming of tracks), you would tear up that tractor.

So we are back around to a small dozer being a good idea! BTW, I found that a dozer attachment on a skid-steer was hard to operate. Maybe a lack of skill on my part, but I do way better with a small dozer than a skid-steer with a dozer attachment.

One other option that a lot of guys do, is they sublet the hauling to someone else and they just put that against every job. If you get a good connection, you may be able to have a small dozer (like a D3) pickup up and moved locally for $125 +/- depending on miles. You just add that mobilization charge into each bid, letting the customer pay for it.

Good points
 
   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist? #95  
This is only an example. My Case 310 with rear rippers weighs about 10,000lbs. Does not have a shuttle, just std 3sp with reverse gear box. This is extremely slow in reverse. My 7520 weighs about 12,000lbs, All my grading implements are 1000lbs, plus. There are certain jobs where the 310 excels, widening roads, cutting in roads. Jobs where a continuous 3" plus cut is needed and I am able to do the work in long cuts. Lots of forward -backwards motion just kills me time wise using my machine. When those conditions are present, I usually skip the dozer and just use the utility tractor. It can't cut as well, but is much much faster to use.

A couple of things about having an equipment mover move your machine for you, now you can have multiple machines on the same job and that can be a HUGE benefit for you and your customer.

(None of my business, but I would have someone move the machine and get something in the 450 size range);)

Just my :2cents: Oh, and do yourself a favor and get a commercial grade box blade(1000lbs+) with a top & tilt system if you don't already have them.
 
   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist? #96  
Some guys around here are so fed up with all the legislation, they just move equipment at night and figure that the occasional fine is cheaper then running legal.

Don't get me wrong, I would love to own a small dozer, but havn't tracked SS loaders kind of made them obsolete? The visability to the tool edge, and the multitude of attachments and useage are unmatched.
 
   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist? #97  
My current and former dozer were used for the same things... punching in and maintaining fire trails and breaks and to clear brush... the D3 rippers also made short work of most trees... one pass with the ripper to severe the roots and done.

The D3 save my life once...

It was spring and I was tooling down the the fire road minding my own business and just then a huge Bay Tree decided to let go... the roots were eroded from the heavy Spring rains.

Anyway... the tree with all it's force landed square on top of the Rops canopy... I was kind of in shock... had to squeeze my way out and get the Stihl saw to cut my way out...

I know for a fact had the same happened on my Kubota or Deere TLB... it would have been bad.

The D3 has a full steel plate Rops with extra strong bracing rated for several turn overs.
 
   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist? #98  
My current and former dozer were used for the same things... punching in and maintaining fire trails and breaks and to clear brush... the D3 rippers also made short work of most trees... one pass with the ripper to severe the roots and done. The D3 save my life once... It was spring and I was tooling down the the fire road minding my own business and just then a huge Bay Tree decided to let go... the roots were eroded from the heavy Spring rains. Anyway... the tree with all it's force landed square on top of the Rops canopy... I was kind of in shock... had to squeeze my way out and get the Stihl saw to cut my way out... I know for a fact had the same happened on my Kubota or Deere TLB... it would have been bad. The D3 has a full steel plate Rops with extra strong bracing rated for several turn overs.

The ROPS on dozers are fall rated. That's why you crawled out. When you go through surface mine training that's one point they touch on. The only piece of equipment on site who's ROPS isn't fall rated is the excavator.
 
   / Small Dozer under 10,000 lbs ... do they exist? #100  
I have a Case 350b (about 9500lbs) and wouldn't swap it out for anything. It pushes a full blade with no problem in 2nd gear all day. It has the shuttle with a 3 speed trans. I don't beat on it or make it do more than it should. Small dozers and stumps don't mix well. I'll grab the BH to pluck out the stumps then dress it up with the dozer. If it has to look really pretty I'll finish up with the tiller. I move it with my Ram 2500 and it pulls without a problem. Everything I own runs good but is old. Something always needs a little attention. I do a little extra wrenching every time I use it so I'm almost all caught up. If you can get a good one, I don't see any down side to owning one.
 

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