Tricks or suggestion on how to remove a pin on bucket?
- Thread starter jodebg
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PHPaul
Platinum Member
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- Feb 15, 2011
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- Downeast Maine
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- Kubota B2650 with cab, Pasquali 986
Pretty simple:
Make sure the bucket is properly supported: as level side-to-side as possible and fully supported across the bottom.
Depending on the style of bucket, it may be best to roll the bucket completely forward and set it on the ground with the open side down (I had to do that on my round-bottom bucket on the old JD) If it's a square back or flat-bottomed bucket, you may want to set it with the bottom on the ground. Also consider how you're going to get at the pins when deciding whether to place it "mouth" down or bottom down.
Operate the loader control(s) to place the bucket flat and make sure there's no pressure (or as little as possible) on the loader arms. The bucket should be just touching the ground, not trying to lift the tractor nor suspended on the loader arms.
Remove the pins from the curl cylinders first, then the pins from the loader arms. You may have to jigger the loader arms up or down a bit to take the load off the pins so they'll come out. You may also wish to lift the bucket a tad before pulling the curl pins and then set it back down to pull the loader arm pins.
It's all about taking the load off the pins so they'll come out easily and having the bucket placed securely so you can line it up again when you wish to put it back on.
Make sure the bucket is properly supported: as level side-to-side as possible and fully supported across the bottom.
Depending on the style of bucket, it may be best to roll the bucket completely forward and set it on the ground with the open side down (I had to do that on my round-bottom bucket on the old JD) If it's a square back or flat-bottomed bucket, you may want to set it with the bottom on the ground. Also consider how you're going to get at the pins when deciding whether to place it "mouth" down or bottom down.
Operate the loader control(s) to place the bucket flat and make sure there's no pressure (or as little as possible) on the loader arms. The bucket should be just touching the ground, not trying to lift the tractor nor suspended on the loader arms.
Remove the pins from the curl cylinders first, then the pins from the loader arms. You may have to jigger the loader arms up or down a bit to take the load off the pins so they'll come out. You may also wish to lift the bucket a tad before pulling the curl pins and then set it back down to pull the loader arm pins.
It's all about taking the load off the pins so they'll come out easily and having the bucket placed securely so you can line it up again when you wish to put it back on.
OP
jodebg
Platinum Member
Once I set the bucket flat, and turn the tractor off, should I go through the
positions on the loader control valve to relieve the hydraulic pressure?
positions on the loader control valve to relieve the hydraulic pressure?
GPintheMitten
Elite Member
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- Sep 8, 2009
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- 3,291
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- Flushing, Michigan
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- Kubota B2620 with BH65 backhoe, Ford 2N
I would.
Hello jodebg, no you don't relieve the hydraulic preassure as this means the loader is resting on the bucket pins. I normally set the bucket flat (flat bottom) as PHPaul says and use a hammer and small pin as a punch to lightly tap the pin out. NB if you are hitting hard then you need to raise/lower the arms/curl to reduce the load on the pin. IF you get it exactly right you can pull the pin out with fingers easily. It is a knack aquired with practice. Good luck.
OP
jodebg
Platinum Member
NB?
Also, what is the technique for reconnecting the bucket back up to the loader arms?
Also, what is the technique for reconnecting the bucket back up to the loader arms?
PHPaul
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2011
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- 760
- Location
- Downeast Maine
- Tractor
- Kubota B2650 with cab, Pasquali 986
Pretty sure "NB" is nota bene or "note well".
Putting the bucket back on is essentially the reverse of taking it off. Drive into position, lower the loader arms until the holes line up and put the pins in.
Of course, you'll wind up moving the bucket around a bit to get exact alignment. My bucket on the JD was light enough I could (usually...) do it by hand, but for a larger/heavier bucket you may want a bar handy to tweak the position.
Loader arm pins first, then pick the bucket up so it pivots on the pins. Extend the curl cylinders until the holes line up or nearly so, then rotate the bucket on the loader arm pins for final alignment.
If your curl cylinders are cross-coupled, you'll find that extending one side makes the other side retract. Just pin whichever one is closest in place and then manually move the bucket until the other one lines up.
Putting the bucket back on is essentially the reverse of taking it off. Drive into position, lower the loader arms until the holes line up and put the pins in.
Of course, you'll wind up moving the bucket around a bit to get exact alignment. My bucket on the JD was light enough I could (usually...) do it by hand, but for a larger/heavier bucket you may want a bar handy to tweak the position.
Loader arm pins first, then pick the bucket up so it pivots on the pins. Extend the curl cylinders until the holes line up or nearly so, then rotate the bucket on the loader arm pins for final alignment.
If your curl cylinders are cross-coupled, you'll find that extending one side makes the other side retract. Just pin whichever one is closest in place and then manually move the bucket until the other one lines up.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Lining bar, pry bar and drift punch can make life more enjoyable.
