Tricks or suggestion on how to remove a pin on bucket?
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PHPaul
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Pretty simple:
Make sure the bucket is properly supported: as level side-to-side as possible and fully supported across the bottom.
Depending on the style of bucket, it may be best to roll the bucket completely forward and set it on the ground with the open side down (I had to do that on my round-bottom bucket on the old JD) If it's a square back or flat-bottomed bucket, you may want to set it with the bottom on the ground. Also consider how you're going to get at the pins when deciding whether to place it "mouth" down or bottom down.
Operate the loader control(s) to place the bucket flat and make sure there's no pressure (or as little as possible) on the loader arms. The bucket should be just touching the ground, not trying to lift the tractor nor suspended on the loader arms.
Remove the pins from the curl cylinders first, then the pins from the loader arms. You may have to jigger the loader arms up or down a bit to take the load off the pins so they'll come out. You may also wish to lift the bucket a tad before pulling the curl pins and then set it back down to pull the loader arm pins.
It's all about taking the load off the pins so they'll come out easily and having the bucket placed securely so you can line it up again when you wish to put it back on.
Make sure the bucket is properly supported: as level side-to-side as possible and fully supported across the bottom.
Depending on the style of bucket, it may be best to roll the bucket completely forward and set it on the ground with the open side down (I had to do that on my round-bottom bucket on the old JD) If it's a square back or flat-bottomed bucket, you may want to set it with the bottom on the ground. Also consider how you're going to get at the pins when deciding whether to place it "mouth" down or bottom down.
Operate the loader control(s) to place the bucket flat and make sure there's no pressure (or as little as possible) on the loader arms. The bucket should be just touching the ground, not trying to lift the tractor nor suspended on the loader arms.
Remove the pins from the curl cylinders first, then the pins from the loader arms. You may have to jigger the loader arms up or down a bit to take the load off the pins so they'll come out. You may also wish to lift the bucket a tad before pulling the curl pins and then set it back down to pull the loader arm pins.
It's all about taking the load off the pins so they'll come out easily and having the bucket placed securely so you can line it up again when you wish to put it back on.
OP
jodebg
Platinum Member
Once I set the bucket flat, and turn the tractor off, should I go through the
positions on the loader control valve to relieve the hydraulic pressure?
positions on the loader control valve to relieve the hydraulic pressure?
GPintheMitten
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I would.
Hello jodebg, no you don't relieve the hydraulic preassure as this means the loader is resting on the bucket pins. I normally set the bucket flat (flat bottom) as PHPaul says and use a hammer and small pin as a punch to lightly tap the pin out. NB if you are hitting hard then you need to raise/lower the arms/curl to reduce the load on the pin. IF you get it exactly right you can pull the pin out with fingers easily. It is a knack aquired with practice. Good luck.
OP
jodebg
Platinum Member
NB?
Also, what is the technique for reconnecting the bucket back up to the loader arms?
Also, what is the technique for reconnecting the bucket back up to the loader arms?
PHPaul
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Pretty sure "NB" is nota bene or "note well".
Putting the bucket back on is essentially the reverse of taking it off. Drive into position, lower the loader arms until the holes line up and put the pins in.
Of course, you'll wind up moving the bucket around a bit to get exact alignment. My bucket on the JD was light enough I could (usually...) do it by hand, but for a larger/heavier bucket you may want a bar handy to tweak the position.
Loader arm pins first, then pick the bucket up so it pivots on the pins. Extend the curl cylinders until the holes line up or nearly so, then rotate the bucket on the loader arm pins for final alignment.
If your curl cylinders are cross-coupled, you'll find that extending one side makes the other side retract. Just pin whichever one is closest in place and then manually move the bucket until the other one lines up.
Putting the bucket back on is essentially the reverse of taking it off. Drive into position, lower the loader arms until the holes line up and put the pins in.
Of course, you'll wind up moving the bucket around a bit to get exact alignment. My bucket on the JD was light enough I could (usually...) do it by hand, but for a larger/heavier bucket you may want a bar handy to tweak the position.
Loader arm pins first, then pick the bucket up so it pivots on the pins. Extend the curl cylinders until the holes line up or nearly so, then rotate the bucket on the loader arm pins for final alignment.
If your curl cylinders are cross-coupled, you'll find that extending one side makes the other side retract. Just pin whichever one is closest in place and then manually move the bucket until the other one lines up.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Lining bar, pry bar and drift punch can make life more enjoyable.
fried1765
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Nah!
You guys got it all wrong!
Drive up to the bucket with the loader arms lowered to catch the Q/A plate.
Roll the bucket back while lifting.
Push the diverter button in, to lock the bucket/forks on with your 3rd function diverter.
Drive away...without ever leaving the seat!
Done with with the bucket/forks? Drop, and use 3rd function diverter to unlock.
Then come back a bit later for the grapple....the same way!
Never leave the seat! Easy peasy!
Works particularly great for an 80 year old!
PILOON
Super Star Member
Installed mine today.
What I made is called 'bullets'.
A bullet is a dowel same size as the pins but tapered so that alignment is as easy as tapping the bullet in to align the holes and then U drive out the bullet with the actual pin.
Took me all of 15-20 mins all told.
The longer the taper the easier to align the holes.
Using a lever to obtain a rough alignment first helps to easily insert the bullet.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Once you get the pinned on bucket removed, it is a good time to install the SSQA adaptor plate on the loader arms, And either buy a new SSQA bucket or convert your pin on bucket. Messing with a pin on bucket is a big PITA, and best done once when you put on your new SSQA (see your dealer) adaptor. I did it that way and never looked back. It is only money and you can't take it with you when you go. If I was the king of the world, another pin on bucket would never be built. It is against the laws of nature and all that is holy. 
fried1765
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SO TRUE !!!Once you get the pinned on bucket removed, it is a good time to install the SSQA adaptor plate on the loader arms, And either buy a new SSQA bucket or convert your pin on bucket. Messing with a pin on bucket is a big PITA, and best done once when you put on your new SSQA (see your dealer) adaptor. I did it that way and never looked back. It is only money and you can't take it with you when you go. If I was the king of the world, another pin on bucket would never be built. It is against the laws of nature and all that is holy.
jmc
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Generally, you can see a slight pin shift as it goes from being loaded in one direction to loading the opposite direction. That's near the position to remove it. Thinking out loud here, but maybe attaching something on the end face of the pin that's visible from the seat, like a utility marker flag. Watch for flag movement as you raise/drop the bucket... if it works, you could mount a flag on a disc magnet for next time.
TimberHole
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Whatever you do, do not stick your finger in the hole! Otherwise, just beat the living $&/@ out of it!
Everhard
Gold Member
If you're only occasionally swapping the bucket for something else I'd stick with the pins. I did for almost 9 years. (Now I'm just finishing building a quick attach system, but I've now got enough stuff that I sway back and forth between that it's worth it.)
If I'm correct your tractor isn't big, the bucket should be light enough that you can man-handle it.
Taking off as has been outlined really well the key is setting the bucket on the ground so that the weight of the bucket is fully on the ground but the loader itself is not pressing it down. Find that spot and the pins come out easy.
Now unless you're on a concrete slab likely the ground won't be perfect - that's were the fact your tractor isn't big is a good thing - I grab the bucket with one hand and the pin I'm trying to pull (or put back in) and wiggle the bucket to help align the holes.
The bucket sat on the ground moves around easy enough, especially if you place it on a couple chunks of wood. (or a pallet - I usually put it on a pallet as I've forks so if it needs moving it's easy to do so without attaching it back onto the tractor)
I've never needed a hammer etc to get my pins in or out.
The tapered dowel is a great idea though! I would almost not have bothered building a quick attach... Taking the pins out is easy, the pain is getting things lined up when attaching - easy to get things close but it never seems close enough! That's where that tapered dowel would make the job so easy as it finishes the lining up process for you, then push the pin in behind the dowel and the dowel pops out the other side - repeat for the next pin. Do the loader arms first and the last curl you likely will not need the dowel, it should be already lined up.
E.
If I'm correct your tractor isn't big, the bucket should be light enough that you can man-handle it.
Taking off as has been outlined really well the key is setting the bucket on the ground so that the weight of the bucket is fully on the ground but the loader itself is not pressing it down. Find that spot and the pins come out easy.
Now unless you're on a concrete slab likely the ground won't be perfect - that's were the fact your tractor isn't big is a good thing - I grab the bucket with one hand and the pin I'm trying to pull (or put back in) and wiggle the bucket to help align the holes.
The bucket sat on the ground moves around easy enough, especially if you place it on a couple chunks of wood. (or a pallet - I usually put it on a pallet as I've forks so if it needs moving it's easy to do so without attaching it back onto the tractor)
I've never needed a hammer etc to get my pins in or out.
The tapered dowel is a great idea though! I would almost not have bothered building a quick attach... Taking the pins out is easy, the pain is getting things lined up when attaching - easy to get things close but it never seems close enough! That's where that tapered dowel would make the job so easy as it finishes the lining up process for you, then push the pin in behind the dowel and the dowel pops out the other side - repeat for the next pin. Do the loader arms first and the last curl you likely will not need the dowel, it should be already lined up.
E.
I know a man that has a short thumb from slipping it into a hole while checking pin alignment. He had his thumb in there and then reached for the hydraulic lever with the other hand. This was on a backhoe mount where the 3 pt control was close. Anyway, it dropped and took off half the thumb like a guillotine.
The long, gently tapered alignment pin is a fantastic no-brainer kind of thing. Why didn’t I think of it?
The long, gently tapered alignment pin is a fantastic no-brainer kind of thing. Why didn’t I think of it?
PILOON
Super Star Member
To be effective you need that tapered 'bullet' to be exactly the same diameter as the actual pins.
Adding a bit of grease helps also.
If alignment is off more than the bullet can handle I use a pry bar to get a rough alignment B4 inserting my bullet.
