Rotary Cutter Rotary cutter top link connect

[TripleR]

I would be inclined to move the chain from the bottom to top, I can imagine what that deck is going to look like in the future.

 

[amaxwell]

I would be inclined to move the chain from the bottom to top, I can imagine what that deck is going to look like in the future.

I agree . I would flip the bar with the chain end for end, to put the chain at the top and use the bottom hole in the frame ,them use the top hole for the top link.

 

[dusty3030]

I would be inclined to move the chain from the bottom to top, I can imagine what that deck is going to look like in the future.

Yep that would be prudent

 

[LD1]

I would do a full length chain and just forget the flat bar.

First dip or hill (or loading on a trailer) that causes the flat bar to touch the deck, that flat bar is gonna bend.

 

[TerryR]

I agree . I would flip the bar with the chain end for end, to put the chain at the top and use the bottom hole in the frame ,them use the top hole for the top link.

I thought so too, but it looks like it was intended to be mounted with the chain at the rear. There's no place to attach the bar end there.

Terry

 

[TripleR]

I thought so too, but it looks like it was intended to be mounted with the chain at the rear. There's no place to attach the bar end there.

Terry

I'm no whiz bang fabricator, but I'm pretty sure I could find a way and if not I would do what LD1 suggested; might even be the best way to go anyway as tht whole setup looks pretty flimsy and poorly designed.

Actually if it was mine, I'd get the welder out, add two braces in lieu of the single one only mounted to the outside, get a piece of flat stock and make a rotating attachment link like on LP and others, but understand many don't have access to a shop and junk metal pile.

 

[mapper]

I would strongly caution against replacing the top link with chain, it protects the operator from having the mower deck catch or hit an obstacle and flip up against the back of the tractor and operator. It's a lot better to bend a top link than get clobbered by the gear box and drive shaft.

 

[TerryR]

I'm no whiz bang fabricator, but I'm pretty sure I could find a way and if not I would do what LD1 suggested;

No doubt it would be simple for someone with the proper tools. But I was pointing out an obstacle for those like me whose metal fabrication tools are limited to a hacksaw, drill, bench grinder and files.

I'd agree the chain alternative is a good one. That's what came on my 18-year old BushHog Squealer, and it's always worked fine. I've always wondered how others get by with just a little slack in a link like more recent ones have, for example when going across a significant dip or backing up a bank.

Terry

 

[Skidrowe18]

Thanks all! I moved the brace down a hole and low and behold there was the top link connect. Don't know why I didn't think of that before. Since II the brace has a chain at the end by the wheel there is no need for a swivel? Here is a pic after I lowered the bar.
View attachment 440078

What has me concerned more now is how the chain is too close to the clutch. It was mentioned earlier that should be covered and I will be looking into that. I can see bad things happening because of this


Why replace the bar with a chain? How will that be better....

 

[TerryR]

I would strongly caution against replacing the top link with chain, it protects the operator from having the mower deck catch or hit an obstacle and flip up against the back of the tractor and operator. It's a lot better to bend a top link than get clobbered by the gear box and drive shaft.

Really? Has that ever happened? How?

I can see a broken or loose lower link letting the cutter get into the tire and bringing it up, but how can catching the cutter on something cause it to flip high up high enough to be a problem?

Terry