Regular Auto Oil in ATV

[w1ebb]

Greetings,

While pursuing my ill-fated oil change [see drain plug thread] I actually looked something up in the manual. It seems to say that using any 10W-40 oil is fine. But I recall the dealer and others saying you need to use ATV oil that contains various additives due to the wet clutch. Does anyone use plain old auto engine oil or should I stick with ATV oil? Incidentally, they are a 1999 Honda 450 ES and a 2001 Honda Recon.

A lot of people will tell you "oil is oil! Dont believe them! Always use quality oil and filters. The oil should always meet/exceed the minimum requirements of your machine.
Good fortune!

Scott

 

[Zerk]

Run Honda oil in my Rancher ATV. Reason being that the Honda oil is API spec'ed SG. I believe this is the last spec before friction fighters were introduced to passenger vehicles. In this case it is the lack of additives for the wet clutch instead of extra additives.

Ya dealer hours can problem. Fleet Farm has 4 wheeler filters and Amsoil.

I would get some type of bike or 4 wheeler oil, but that is me.

 

[aeblank]

I have an old Suzuki, and the clutch is flaky. I suspect it's because the wrong oil has been used.
Someone mentioned not having Moly in the oil. Is there a way to "clean" the clutches after the wrong oil has been used (probably for years)?

 

[GreenYellow]

I have an old Suzuki, and the clutch is flaky. I suspect it's because the wrong oil has been used.
Someone mentioned not having Moly in the oil. Is there a way to "clean" the clutches after the wrong oil has been used (probably for years)?

I am by no means an expert with this, but I do know that using oil with Moly is problematic for wet centrifugal clutches.

Maybe try a "flush". Change the oil to the correct oil and add and engine flush product. They make several -- Sea Foam, Royal Purple, mechanic in a bottle. There are several... (don't overfill oil capacity)
Run it for a little while (maybe a half hour) in normal use. Then drain the oil. (and filter if applicable)

Add the correct oil and new filter. Sure can't hurt anything.

 

[aeblank]

I am by no means an expert with this, but I do know that using oil with Moly is problematic for wet centrifugal clutches.

That is the clutch, I think, that feels funky. It seems to grip/slip to varying degrees without changing anything. Not trying to derail the original topic, but thanks.

 

[aeblank]

I am by no means an expert with this, but I do know that using oil with Moly is problematic for wet centrifugal clutches.

That is the clutch, I think, that feels funky. It seems to grip/slip to varying degrees without changing anything. Not trying to derail the original topic, but thanks.

 

[DrRod]

Talked to a mechanic at the dealer and he said -- yes -- there is a difference and you should always use ATV oil. He didn't seem particularly worried about the auto oil currently in the machine. No need to do a flush or even change the filter. just drain and replace with the right stuff and all should be fine. So I've done that, took it out for a ride, and so far so good. Another crisis averted.

 

[cdaigle430]

Use ATV oil. I own a Honda Shadow Aero and Honda Rincon and always use Honda powersports oil. Im not picking on the origional poster here but why screw around with the lifeblood of an engine? Just use the right oil for the job, it can save you some major headaches and pains later on.

 

[TableRocked]

I started with the required specs for the oil and the only JASO MA2 with an API of SM or higher (SN in this case) 10W40 I could find was Motul's 7100 4T 10W40 oil, so that's what I'm running in my 2015 Kawasaki Mule Pro FXT LE.

For the transmission and differential, going again with the specs and verifying from Kawasaki tech support that "LS" or limited slip gear oil isn't required for either the trans or the differential, I found that Motul's Gear 300 75W90 exceeded all the specs, so I went with it.

 

[WilliamBos]

Rotella T6 5W40 is JASO spec oil, makes it wet clutch friendly.

JASO is all you need to look for on the bottle.