B2782 Snow Blower modifying

[aczlan]

Aaron,

I've been using UHMW tape (acrylic adhesive, not rubber) on aircraft for years, so I naturally went that route first, only using it on the deflector for the test. It got torn up when the blower picked up a bit of gravel. I think I was using 6 or 7 mil, so maybe the thicker stuff would work. It naturally resists impact and abrasion (a 1" thick piece will stop a .45 round), mine was just too thin. I don't think tape would last on the impeller housing.

I've been using 3/4" thick pieces for the skids for two seasons, I'm sure they are a little thinner, but not so's to look at. The UHMW skids prevent any damage to pavers and concrete etc.

bumper

That was my worry. Will keep looking.

Aaron Z

 

[bumperm]

Aaron,

I don't think there's a known, existent material that is more suited for the job. There is a decision to be made, at least in terms of blower efficiency, and that is to line the impeller housing as I did, put paddle liners on the impeller blades, or both.

There's one enterprising individual selling "kits" which have pieces of rubber belting to seal the gap between blades and housing - this to improve efficiency and gain some distance. What I've done accomplishes that. I was faced with a varying gap, more than 3/8" at the lead in, to just under 1/8" before the exit. The rubber belting idea would flex to fill the changing gap, improving fan blow, but actually add a small amount of friction in the process. Thinner UHMW could function in a similar manner. I did consider using slotted UHMW paddle liners that would move to maintain contact with the housing wall face (and I may still do that - there would be zip for wear between the two surfaces and the moving paddle liners would help prevent any foreign object from getting between the paddle and housing/liner. It should also slightly increase efficiency over what I have already done. Doing the paddle liners and chute only, no impeller housing liner, should be almost as good as what I've done, it just would not prevent housing wear and would perhaps incur a little more friction moving the bulk of snow around the housing.

bumper

 

[aczlan]

I have a snowblower that has impeller clearances that vary from 3/8" to 3/4"
I wonder how well the plastic from a plastic barrel would hold up. I have one that could be cut up without any drama. Might try it after I get it mounted to the L3830.

Aaron Z

 

[bumperm]

Aaron,

See this page for info on the various polyethylene weights and properties: POLYETHYLENE UHMW HDPE LDPE

The strongest grade of PE is UHMW. The cost for a sheet adequate for the job is maybe $25 (with free shipping):

Amazon.com: UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4020, D6712, D4976: Industrial & Scientific

Your barrel is most likely LDPE, the least dense and strong PE (by a large margin, up to 10 times depending on the specific quality). Since most of the effort in a project like this is labor, it hardly makes sense to skimp on the material used. UHMW is sold as virgin and recycled, I would only consider using virgin even though the cost is a little more. Do the job once (grin).

 

[xzcVAbc5]

My uderstanding of UHMW is that it expands with heat like vinyl siding. If you fix it down when its cold outside it may buckle when sitting in a hot garage in the summer time.

 

[bumperm]

My uderstanding of UHMW is that it expands with heat like vinyl siding. If you fix it down when its cold outside it may buckle when sitting in a hot garage in the summer time.

In my first post I addressed the issue. The 64" length of UHMW I used was first placed in a freezer to cool, then measured and marked before putting in my hot tub. Then measured again and found to have "grown" by just under 1/2".

One end of the housing liner strip (blade "entry" end) is fixed in place with two machine screws. The exit end (where the snow heads to the chute) is NOT fixed in place in the lateral direction. There is a + 1/2" slot for the machine screw and fender washer to provide a sliding fit at this point to allow for the differential coefficient of expansion between liner and metal housing.

In use, the centrifugal forces imposed on snow will push against the liner to closely "mold" it to the steel housing. This will automatically adjust the slip fit end of the liner as needed to compensate for temperature variations. This sort, or similar, accommodation for expansion is an absolute requirement for my design to work, no question.

 

[aczlan]

Aaron,

See this page for info on the various polyethylene weights and properties: POLYETHYLENE UHMW HDPE LDPE

The strongest grade of PE is UHMW. The cost for a sheet adequate for the job is maybe $25 (with free shipping):

Amazon.com: UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4020, D6712, D4976: Industrial & Scientific

Your barrel is most likely LDPE, the least dense and strong PE (by a large margin, up to 10 times depending on the specific quality). Since most of the effort in a project like this is labor, it hardly makes sense to skimp on the material used. UHMW is sold as virgin and recycled, I would only consider using virgin even though the cost is a little more. Do the job once (grin).

Looks like I will need a 8"x88" piece (I have a 7' Loftness snowblower with a "Truck Loading" chute). I contacted a seller on Ebay to see what they want for a 8"x100" piece. That would give me a little left over to try on the spout.
I have some heavy (3/8") rubber mudflaps that I will put on the ends of the impeller blades to tighten it up further.

Aaron Z

 

[bumperm]

Aaron,

I posted source and price for a full sheet from the supplier I used. If it turns out to be not much more than the strip you need, I'd go the full sheet as you will find all manner of uses for the plastic (besides replacement liners for life :c).

I'd also use it for the ends of the impeller blades too - - would have to slot them as described earlier, but less friction than the rubber wipes.

The "spout" or chute and deflector was the first thing I did - if you ever have issues with clogging, this one change all but eliminates it. And, importantly, if a clog does happen in the slushy stuff, it is far easier to clear than before as it has no tendency to cling to the plastic as it does to steel. I'm sure you will find that it provides an overall amazing improvement.

I have no idea why the manufacturers haven't incorporated UHMW lining in their designs.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Nice job. I'll be doing something similar after seeing this...

 

[xzcVAbc5]

In my first post I addressed the issue.

I could have sworn I read the whole post but I definitely missed the heating/freezing part. Sounds well designed and the pictures look good.