B2782 Snow Blower modifying
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bumperm
Veteran Member
The UHMW-PE shows no sign of wear in the chute. I've never had to unclog the chute until this year, we had a wet slushy snow that was more covered with a layer of heavy snow. The top layer would tend to push along in front of the blower. It packed in like ice. Spray, though not necessary on the parts lined with plastic, sure works well on the unlined augers. I've been using Gempler's Silicone Snow Plow Coating in a small pump sprayer - works very well, especially if you follow directions and coat things in advance to give it a chance to dry. Gempler's on-line sells it for less than on Amazon.
Kubota snowblower - YouTube
Kubota snowblower - YouTube
thanks... I have some on order... I have some scuff marks on the UHMW... is there a right side to use or are both sides the same......
you have this on a BX-24 what model blower are you using... ?
PILOON
Super Star Member
Somewhat off topic but---
Years back when I was in aviation (avionics) a northern client was having trouble with a NDB antenna array due to Ice buildup.
Since I was familiar with Teflon and plastics for ski bottoms I suggested he try using Teflon tape on the long antenna rods and then simply wacking the tower to set up a vibration.
Well it worked great and I enjoyed a fair amount of repeat sales.
Was simple as the ice simply refused to really stick and the least vibration set it free!
Also we'd line aircraft ski bottoms with what was called 'LDR' skins.*
That was simply HD poly sheets attached with flush rivets.
Otherwise when landing heat build up would cause ice to form when stopped and then try to get that aircraft to move!
* short for 'low drag resistance'
The HDPE was OK but while Teflon is slicker it is not very good for abrasion like sand etc.
Years back when I was in aviation (avionics) a northern client was having trouble with a NDB antenna array due to Ice buildup.
Since I was familiar with Teflon and plastics for ski bottoms I suggested he try using Teflon tape on the long antenna rods and then simply wacking the tower to set up a vibration.
Well it worked great and I enjoyed a fair amount of repeat sales.
Was simple as the ice simply refused to really stick and the least vibration set it free!
Also we'd line aircraft ski bottoms with what was called 'LDR' skins.*
That was simply HD poly sheets attached with flush rivets.
Otherwise when landing heat build up would cause ice to form when stopped and then try to get that aircraft to move!
* short for 'low drag resistance'
The HDPE was OK but while Teflon is slicker it is not very good for abrasion like sand etc.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Another product that is 'slick' is polyurethane which enjoys many of the desirable qualities.
Again they used it on aircraft skis as a low drag surface.
However I don't refer to poly paint but a commercial urethane paint product.
Since I never used it I can't suggest where to purchase.
Again they used it on aircraft skis as a low drag surface.
However I don't refer to poly paint but a commercial urethane paint product.
Since I never used it I can't suggest where to purchase.
OP
bumperm
Veteran Member
UHMW-PE sheet, normally has no "right side", both sides are the same. However, there is a chemical process that allows the application of adhesive to the material and this is obviously done for UMMW tape (handy stuff). I haven't seen adhesive lined sheet, such as the 1/8" thick material I used for lining the chute and impeller blades etc. but it is probably available.
Pretty sure I mentioned previously, UHMW is the mechanically strongest, most abrasion resistant long chain polymer available. For some applications, such as aggregate abrasion, it is longer wearing than steel. UHMW is almost as slippery as Teflon - but FAR stronger and much more abrasion resistant. However, as strong as it is, it will abrade and wear over time.
In attaching UHMW to a substrate, steel in this case, you must consider that UHMW will have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than many other materials. This will be more noticeable on larger pieces, of course, where holes may need to be larger or slotted, to allow the material to expand or contract without buckling or shearing fasteners etc.
I mentioned UHMW tape, it's available in many widths and thicknesses (I have from .004" to .015" with acrylic adhesive). While this tape is great for many applications, it doesn't work on a snowblower in areas subject to direct gravel impacts as it's too thin to absorb the impact energy.
I've found Peechtree Woodworking (on Amazon) has good prices on thicker stuff (1/4 to 1" etc).
dnw64
Veteran Member
OP
bumperm
Veteran Member
McMaster has "everything!" . . . but their prices are a bit on the high side IF you can find stuff elsewhere. There is a price to pay for their convenience, great customer service, and selection.
On the UHMW-PE sheet with adhesive, keep in mind that this stuff is **** for stout, very strong, so that would probably be only suitable for flat surfaces. To make tight bends, it will need to be heated to 300F and held in position until it cools. When heated to "plastic" the white UHMW will go clear and then back to opaque white as it cools. Really amazing stuff. Oh, and difficult to plastic weld, I hear - - though I've never tried that.
On the UHMW-PE sheet with adhesive, keep in mind that this stuff is **** for stout, very strong, so that would probably be only suitable for flat surfaces. To make tight bends, it will need to be heated to 300F and held in position until it cools. When heated to "plastic" the white UHMW will go clear and then back to opaque white as it cools. Really amazing stuff. Oh, and difficult to plastic weld, I hear - - though I've never tried that.
Tried some Gemplers.... so far so good... Thanks