Your thoughts on my basement plans

[EddieWalker]

In our area, if someone builds a basement in an area that can't get a pipe to "daylight"...

It's not totally impossible, but I will have to remove my sidewalk, dig around my gazebo, take out my fence around my garden and dig over five hundred feet to get to where the downward slope of the drain comes out of the ground. If I was just going straight out, level, I could probably cut it down to about 300 hundred feet. My land has a very nice, gradual slope that isn't very steep, but carries water away nicely.

 

[/pine]

/pine
the architect can give you advice that may not be better than that received from a tractor forum.
In Ohio a grad student in engineering could get in ethics problems if they give engineering advice for pay.
Ps I work with licensed architects alot and with registered engineers all of the time.And never trust an architects ENGINEERING judgement

Too funny...!

So in other words..."... never trust an architects ENGINEERING judgement, or hire an architect or engineer that went to school in ohio... or the contractors and building departments (in ohio) that rely on them"

BTW...even the dumbest architect will have more knowledge about materials (like pond liners etc...) than anyone and when discussing hypothetical scenarios and material applications there is or would not be any "ethics" issues...
And...when I said "spend a few bucks" I meant sending some snail mail inquiries to the architecture and engineering departments at places like Texas (Austin) Texas A&M or Texas Tech...etc., etc...

 

[GPintheMitten]

Well you've been given some good advice. Good luck with your project.

 

[Rustyferrious]

It's not totally impossible, but I will have to remove my sidewalk, dig around my gazebo, take out my fence around my garden and dig over five hundred feet to get to where the downward slope of the drain comes out of the ground. If I was just going straight out, level, I could probably cut it down to about 300 hundred feet. My land has a very nice, gradual slope that isn't very steep, but carries water away nicely.

I learned a trick from an old builder on how to get piping under sidewalks and other obstructions without disturbing them or going around them. Take a length of PVC pipe with an ID large enough to accommodate whatever it is you are running. Dig the trench straight up to the obstruction long enough to accept the PVC pipe and a small trench opposite. Stick a water hose with a nozzle into the PVC and just keep pushing it through, letting the hose act as a water jet, cutting through the soil. It's a little messy but it is fairly quick and easy. I've used this method many times for running water, electric, gas and data lines and avoided a lot of repair/extra work. For hard ground, cut the business end of the PVC at an angle so you can rotate it as you push and cut through stubborn material. Only thing that will screw you up is hitting a large rock square on. Once through, cut the PVC to the appropriate length, run your drain line through it and Viola! you are done.

 

[Streetcar]

/pine
What I am saying is in general do not trust an architect for a geotechnical engineering question,typically they do not have training in this area. It would be similar to asking a bridge engineer to solve air conditioning problem.
The ethics problem is an unlicensed engineer (grad student)providing engineering services.

 

[/pine]

/pine
What I am saying is in general do not trust an architect for a geotechnical engineering question,typically they do not have training in this area. It would be similar to asking a bridge engineer to solve air conditioning problem.
The ethics problem is an unlicensed engineer (grad student)providing engineering services.

Your analogy is ludicrous at best...but I suppose the expert civil engineers and architects that are qualified in the noted field (in ohio anyway)...probably graduated from culinary school ...:laughing:

 

[dragoneggs]

Yeah funny comments about architects and engineers. I studied first to be an architect and then my dad gave me some wisdom and convinced me to switch to engineering because if you aren't a very good architect and have a lot of creativity as a designer, then you could end up working as a draftsman for an engineer.

As a structural engineer, and my online fee of :2cents:, I say do it right... skip the pond liner! If that was a good solution it would be used for more than ponds! Build traditional foundation walls out of poured cement and seal the walls (rent forms and use some rebar if you want to really make it bash proof), roll, spray, or brush on a heavy coating or two of sealer on the exterior. Use some gravel backfill around the perforated pipe. Make sure you have perimeter drainage that routes (gravity or sump pump w/ alarm). Around here Home Depot sell 4in corrugated, perf pipe with a exterior 'sock' to keep the drain holes and pipe from plugging.

If you plan to heat the basement, you may want to create a small air gap between your interior wood wall and the cement wall. The air will allow the structure to breathe and not wick moisture from the cement. I highly recommend a vapor barrier under your slab floor.... this is a must in my book. But I'm a Seattle boy not Texan so your requirements could be less. Seeing the rain you'all just got, I wouldn't skimp on that.

Based on your craftsmanship displayed on your Gazebo, I have confidence in your decisions though whatever you do. :thumbsup:

 

[/pine]

...then you could end up working as a draftsman for an engineer....

And making drawings in ink is the pits IMO...!

 

[MossRoad]

It's not totally impossible, but I will have to remove my sidewalk, dig around my gazebo, take out my fence around my garden and dig over five hundred feet to get to where the downward slope of the drain comes out of the ground. If I was just going straight out, level, I could probably cut it down to about 300 hundred feet. My land has a very nice, gradual slope that isn't very steep, but carries water away nicely.

Or... hire a directional borer and have it done in a few hours with very minimal disturbance above ground. But, know idea how much that costs. Probably a lot more than just putting in a sump pump with drain tiles around the footing, with a 1" pipe out of the sump pump to daylight. Perhaps a dry streambed in you landscaping?

The purpose of the drain tiles and sump pit are "in case" ground water shows up. Or, "in case" your basement would ever flood (broken water pipe, washing machine overflow, freezer defrosts, etc...). Its and insurance policy. They are required here, but most remain dry for their entire life. My in-laws' have their washing machine drain into one, and that pumps up and into their septic system. The other one is for the drain tiles and has never ever been used except for the condensate drain on their ed-humidifier in summer. In winter, they'll dump a bucket or two of water in it just to make sure it works.

What you're planning is kind of an experiment. I lived in and experimental house for 24 years (my father's on-going architecture experiment). We had all kinds of un-tried things/systems/materials and he changed them often. It was constant work. He did that purposely to learn, but a few unintended consequences made for a few unpleasant experiences.

You know 100% that a traditional footing, poured walls, drain tiles, waterproofing, etc... are tried and true. You're pretty sure what you want to do will also work. But do you want to find out with concrete? Its pretty much permanent.

Good luck, though. I've seen your work. If anyone can make it work and look good, too, its you! :thumbsup:

 

[jimmyj]

Im with Moss. We call those "torpedo" devices here. No fuss no muss.