B2650 snow removal options

[beckmurph]

I don't think there is enough clearance on the drive tires for chains, without spacers.
BUUT, you could put chains on the steering tires with no problems.
And that is my plan for right now.

ANBO 72" blade is far more than Kubota's.:shocked:

 

[varmint]

I get the sense that putting front chains on, especially without back chains, is a bad idea. But some wheel spacers are easy to add, and bingo, chains work. (we're talking about inner fender clearance, right?)

 

[beckmurph]

I get the sense that putting front chains on, especially without back chains, is a bad idea. But some wheel spacers are easy to add, and bingo, chains work. (we're talking about inner fender clearance, right?)

Yes inner fender clearance is the problem.
Kubota spacers are $300 and chains rear chains are over $175. Plus my rear tires are loaded.
I want to take the easy and cheap way.:dance1:

 

[David97]

Thanks for the input guys.

I guess the snowblower really is not needed where i live so i will go with the quick attach loader and snow blade. I just don't know if the tractor is large enough to push much snow. I was going to get R4 tires since i will mostly be mowing with it do they tear up grass if your in 2wd how do they do in snow? Turf tires look to tame! My dealer said i have to get kubota insurance as well is that only with the 0% loan?

 

[Coyote machine]

Here's what I run with: Loaded R-4's on all wheels. Aquiline MPC chains, (on REAR wheels ONLY) and a HLA Series 2000 7' all angle snowplow, with crossover valve, to dampen shock to the loader arms. I usually have my backhoe on, which serves as 1000+#s of ballast.
A blower would be a waste of money, (IMO), and would render you loader-less, so 2 strikes against you in your area.
Mid-mount blowers for front end use are not only expensive, but unwieldy, difficult to install/uninstall, etc.
My plow is on and off in minutes with QA and two quick coupler connections on the loader torque tube, run off my loader joystick's trigger switch, through a diverter valve. I allows me two pairs of rear remotes, AND a pair of hoses, (mentioned), going to the loader's torque tube.

So I would NOT recommend using just front chains; that can cause drivetrain issues because the front wheels turn at a different speed than do the rears, and there is an allowance for slippage of the front wheels as they turn corners, etc. This is compounded when in 4WD. It is further compounded by the lack of additional traction on the rear wheels that don't have chains to even out traction issues.

Add ballast to rear, chains on rear, front all angle plow or manual angle one, and keep your loader usable with your bucket. All set for most winters.

 

[beckmurph]

R4's in two wheel drive don't tear up my "yard",
unless I make a sharp turn.

Pulling a 6' blade of snow uphill was the only
problem I had with my B3200.

You shouldn't have that problem pushing snow. You tires would be on the cleared section.

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[Rustyferrious]

When I bought my BX25D I also bought the BX2763A hydraulic front blade. As far as I can tell, none of the hydraulic blades mount on the QA rig on the FEL. They have their own hitch that mounts to the tractor frame - same as the snow blower, sans the PTO - requiring removal of the FEL arms. The manual blade mounts to the the front QA, where the bucket normally mounts. If I had an enclosed cab - I would have preferred the blower myself, but with the tractor plus all the other implements I got, i maxed out my budget. Plus a cab would have been too tall for my overhead doors. I would not want to be blowing snow without a cab, that's miserable enough with my 24" Toro - so I got the blade instead. I'm going to practice the swap this week - the dealer went over it with me but I have not tried it yet. I can see where I might want the FEL for clearing high drifts and piles, plus I will be using the forks quite a bit - so I'm hoping it's not a big hassle to swap one for the other.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I have R4s. They came on the tractor that I bought used with 110 hours. I would have chosen turfs if I bought new. In truth, either style will work, and each have advantages. Turfs with chains are great in snow. In mud or the woods R4s are better.

 

[newtattoobob]

This will be my third winter with my b2650 with the qa blade on the fel. I live in northeast ohio and we get a lot of snow. I think it does a great job. I like the blade on the fel because I can switch back to the bucket if needed and I can stack the snow with blade. I bought chains last year for all four tires (r4 no spacers needed). I don't think they are needed unless you are dealing with hills or ice in your driveway. The only time I have trouble with the blade is when the snow gets deep on the sides of the drive. Then I'm not able to throw the snow to the side. But this will happen with any blade when the banks on the side of the drive get higher than the blade.

 

[varmint]

Yah, high side banks require special treatment: I just raise the blade, say to 18" off the ground, and plow off the top of the banks, then take a second lower pass- that buys me some snow room. Not being able to have a cab means no snowblower for me, and I don't think I would want one, anyway, since the blade works so well for a reasonable investment, with very little upkeep required.