Welding table top?

[Piper2022]

I am about to build a welding table and would like some opinions. I plan on building some steel furniture such as table frames so 4�8 is the size I am planning on. I am thinking 2肺4 3/16 members under as a frame to keep it straight and (6) 2肺2 tubing as legs. Does that sound reasonable? I want it to be stiff enough that I can use it for projects other than welding.

So my real question is what to use as a top. I know there are a bunch of threads over the years with people discussing different top thickness. Some say 3/16 to 1/4" and some say 1/2" to 3/4". I was thinking 3/8 would be more than enough for what I am doing with it. My only concern is how flat are the sheets of 3/8 and 1/2" plate at most steel supply shops? If I use 3/8 the frame should be able to straighten it out a little. But I feel like if I go too thick and the sheet is not flat I am going to be stuck with it forever.

I have never had to purchase a full sheet of plate this thick before so I am unsure the over tolerance. Any input would be great.

 

[rswyan]

The way I did mine was based on a welder friend's advice, which took into account the limited space I have.

He suggested building steel saw horses, which I did, and just setting a steel plate on top, which I also did. That way, if I needed the space, I could simply take the plate off with the forks and just leave it on the floor and move the sawhorses off the side, or even outside.

I ended up going pretty heavy on the saw horses, wanting them to be capable of supporting significant weight ... I used some 3/8" x 2" or 3" angle as I was buying standard 20' lengths and had a use for that size on another project.

For the cross member connecting a pair of legs together, I used a couple of pieces of 3" x 2" x 1/4" wall rectangular tube I had here from another project that got aborted. I think they were 5' long - because I had a 10' long piece to use, and so they could be set in the long direction under a 4' x 8' piece of plate. 1/4" steel for bracing and foot pads.

I can drag them around by hand, but they aren't anything I'll be picking up and carrying.

For the top I got a 4' x 8' piece of 1/4" plate ... mainly because I had a need for that thickness on another project, the price was right, and picking up a 4' x 8' plate long-ways with the tractor, 1/4" was probably all it was going to be able to do, with the load sticking out 8' from forks.

After cutting off the steel for the other project, I now have a table that is around 4' x 5'.

I positioned the saw horses for the best support and then used shims to get the table as level as possible.

 

[Piper2022]

Cool, I like your idea of being able to tear it down and use the space for something else if needed. I would build it that way but my plan now is to build a big shelf under it and store my mig and tig on. As well as most of my other non combustible welding supplies and tools. I think I am going to go for 3/8 plate mainly because its about as think I feel I can attempt to straighten if it needs it.

I was going to try and find some rugged casters and put my table on casters. However the garage floor is not that flat so pending the stiffness of the table the location of the floor might rack the table around some. I don't want to have to shim it every time i want to move it.

 

[Big Barn]

When I built my 4'x8' table I considered 5/8" or 3/4". Just couldn't justify the price. Cheaped out using 3/8"for the top thinking if I ever needed that thickness for another project I could use it and upgrade the thickness for the table.

That was 3 years ago and I'm happy with 3/8".

And you are correct in the fact that it is really easy to achieve a flat surface using that thickness. A couple of welded nuts and you can push or pull to get it pretty near perfect. (based on lax Big Barn tolerances)

Terry

 

[Ed of all trades]

The only reason INHO that you need to go thicker than 3/8's is if you want to be able to get things straight by tacking it to the table and hitting it with a sledge. i worked in a stair shop and our tables were 4 x 16 x 1/2. It was wonderful to be able to hit things with a sledge and not worry. If I were to build a welding table I would live to go 1/2" thick but with money the way it is it will be 3/8's. Ed

 

[Piper2022]

I was quoted $225 for 3/8" and $295 for 1/2" in 4x8', sound reasonable to you guys?

 

[Big Barn]

I was quoted $225 for 3/8" and $295 for 1/2" in 4x8', sound reasonable to you guys?

Yes. I paid $200 Cdn for 4x8 x.375 for mine 3 years ago.

Terry

 

[Mysfyt]

Steel plate is selling at the lowest prices I've seen since the 90's. Just bought some 1/4" plate for .28 cents a pound. Having built numerous different versions of welding tables over the years, I'd encourage you to go with as thick of plate as you can afford. If your table is going to be mobile, that is, if you are going to put casters on it to move it around, then 1/2" or less makes sense. This would most likely be stretcher leveled plate which is usually fairly flat. If it is not going to be a mobile table, go for the 3/4" plate-you will not regret it one bit. Six to ten inch channel iron on edge will go a long way for taking any curvature out of the surface.

 

[Mysfyt]

I was quoted $225 for 3/8" and $295 for 1/2" in 4x8', sound reasonable to you guys?

Look around some more. .35 to .40 cents a pound would be reasonable right now for a single sheet.

 

[rswyan]

I was quoted $225 for 3/8" and $295 for 1/2" in 4x8', sound reasonable to you guys?

Yes ... although I haven't priced lately.

I paid $180 for my 4 x 8 sheet of 1/4" last fall.