Adding led lights...relay or not

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

Wow! That's a lot of forward facing light on that ROPS! 25 amps on 12volt LEDS will give you ~20,000 actual lumens. Or about 10x brighter than your average car head lights. Does it ever blind you if you turn around with the front lights on?

It's bright. When you turn and look to the side or behind you want to direct your eyes down...

I really liked the center light. I put one on my RTV first for plowing snow. But for mowing after dark I wanted to make sure I had some more light out to the sides so I could see where my line of cut grass was when I'm turning. The additional floods pointed outward work great for that.
The weird thing is that after looking/driving forward for a bit, when you look behind you the lights back there look really dim. But they are not...

To your last question, I don't feel that adding a relay would do anything more than complicate the system given your draw and switch rating.

 

[jcummins]

It's bright. When you turn and look to the side or behind you want to direct your eyes down...

I really liked the center light. I put one on my RTV first for plowing snow. But for mowing after dark I wanted to make sure I had some more light out to the sides so I could see where my line of cut grass was when I'm turning. The additional floods pointed outward work great for that.
The weird thing is that after looking/driving forward for a bit, when you look behind you the lights back there look really dim. But they are not...

To your last question, I don't feel that adding a relay would do anything more than complicate the system given your draw and switch rating.

Those look like the same lights I'm putting on this Gator. And I as you will mount the ones on the end so they are flooding light more to the side...led bar will be dead ahead.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

You will not be disappointed

 

[mx1alex]

To add to my previous post, 6 50w LED flood lights draw 12.5 Amps on a 24 volt system. In a 12 volt system, these lights would draw 25 Amps! That's a lot of current. Better plan for it.

I used 10 gauge wire for my lights and 6 gauge wire for my trolling motor.

 

[TomSeller]

The purpose of the relay in this thread (as I understand it) is to protect the IGNITION KEY CIRCUIT if you are interlocking the LED lights with it. It is not to protect a 20+ amp toggle switch. Interlocking with the ignition key or existing headlight circuit automatically will shut off the LED lights. A simple toggle switch straight to the 12V battery/alternator accidentally switched on in daylight hours could drain a shut off tractor's battery real quick.

 

[MF283]

Now ya'll have me really wanting to add light's to the new Gator, problem is, i'm an electrical dummy. Is there anywhere that has actual pics of an installation instead of drawings that i can't comprehend?

Ronnie

 

[oldpilgrim]

check your fuse block. There may be a fused circuit on it that is labelled aux or spare. i had one on mine and ran my led aux head lights to it. I mounted a waterproof push button switch on my dash to control them separately from the regular head lights. This 'spare' is factory wired thru the key switch. Since all my lights go off with the key, I'm guessing there's already a relay in the key circuit. It was an easy install.

 

[gladehound]

The purpose of the relay in this thread (as I understand it) is to protect the IGNITION KEY CIRCUIT if you are interlocking the LED lights with it. It is not to protect a 20+ amp toggle switch. Interlocking with the ignition key or existing headlight circuit automatically will shut off the LED lights. A simple toggle switch straight to the 12V battery/alternator accidentally switched on in daylight hours could drain a shut off tractor's battery real quick.

I see. I must be wired through the ignition switch also because my lights only go on when the key is on. I'm wired through the fuse box "aux work light" fuse which had nothing on it so I used it. I do not know how it is wired upstream of that fuse. I do not know if there is already a relay or not. With max 6 amp draw, is there any risk of damaging the ignition circuit if there is no relay?

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

If you wired it into the fuse box there must be a relay that controls it. That and the circuit is there. They must plan on a decent draw for aux lighting. 6 amps is fairly low. I think you are just fine. If you were up around 15 or 20 I would start looking into it a bit more.

 

[Garandman]

Now ya'll have me really wanting to add light's to the new Gator, problem is, i'm an electrical dummy. Is there anywhere that has actual pics of an installation instead of drawings that i can't comprehend?

Ronnie

Look on YouTube.

 

[7lakes]

my thoughts...

If you get a good enough switch, you are good. I like the light up switches from amazon. They make cool light up ones that say cool things too. Mine are all orange (i have a Kubota) leds too. They look great and fit with the tractor. Relay's became important as car computer switching become more common/important and for high amp needs. An led light bar doesn't qualify. For the picky reader, these are 20 amp switches.

Amazon.com: mictuning 5pin Laser LED Light Bar Rocker Switch ON-OFF LED Light 20A 12V Blue: Automotive

 

[MF283]

Look on YouTube.

Thanks, hadn't thought of that:thumbsup:

Ronnie

 

[TomSeller]

I see. I must be wired through the ignition switch also because my lights only go on when the key is on. I'm wired through the fuse box "aux work light" fuse which had nothing on it so I used it. I do not know how it is wired upstream of that fuse. I do not know if there is already a relay or not. With max 6 amp draw, is there any risk of damaging the ignition circuit if there is no relay?

Is your factory configured?

 

[gladehound]

Is your factory configured?

It is factory configured with a "Fuse 3 (10A): Work lamp" and a wire going from that fuse to the back of the tractor. I tied into that wire with 2 switches, one for front lights, one for rear lights. I looked at the wiring diagram and the dash board is upstream of the 10A work lamp fuse with another 10A fuse before the dash board. Which means the 10A fuse before the dash is running 6A (total theatrical, probably less in reality) plus whatever draw the dash takes. Per the manual the dash lights only take 1.4 watts so ~1/10 amp.

The fuse I tied into was designed to take a factory optional work lamp. I don't know how many amps that factory work lamp draws but it is probably not too different from my 4 LED floods @ 6 amp total. So I think I'm OK.

I guess if I'm going to add any more lights I should go directly from the battery. But I don't think I need any more light. The four LED floods light the area around the tractor very well and the factory headlamps are good for distance straight ahead. And since my forward lights are in front of me and rear lights behind me, I don't have any issues with being blinded or getting glare from my own lights affecting my night vision. So I can see well without a huge light bar.

 

[TomSeller]

The fuse I tied into was designed to take a factory optional work lamp. I don't know how many amps that factory work lamp draws but it is probably not too different from my 4 LED floods @ 6 amp total. So I think I'm OK.
.

I think you are fine. Sounds like younthought itthrough very well. As long as the 10A fuses are 10A you should be good to go. On those who have used tractors, checking the proper fuse size is in the proper fuse holder is always a good idea.