Anti Seize question.

[Soundguy]

Using WD-40 as a lubricant, is the equivalent of using duct to "repair" something. :laughing:

I know right.. duct tape is temporary, and clearly, BAILING wire is the real fix!

 

[k0ua]

I know right.. duct tape is temporary, and clearly, BAILING wire is the real fix!

i was under the impression if you could not repair it with bailing wire, or duct tape or WD-40, it could NOT be repaired.

 

[Soundguy]

Wd 40 used to remove the duct tape residue when switching from duct tape to bailing wire.

 

[Raspy]

i was under the impression if you could not repair it with bailing wire, or duct tape or WD-40, it could NOT be repaired.

If you fix it with a bigger hammer, how long does the fix last?

 

[Raspy]

It's a better starting aid than ether, well at least you won't have washed-out cylinders when you finally do get it started.

If you use enough ether to "wash" the cylinder walls, you will have a destroyed engine from the violent preignition. It can easily cause broken ring lands and broken crankshafts. Lubrication is your least concern. Only use enough ether so that the engine can "smell" it while cranking. NO liquid.

 

[Tractor Boy]

Sorry, I haven't had a chance to reply. Spent the last couple days putting everything back together. Thanks for all the info. I purchased zinc anti seize and marine moly paste from Amazon, I couldn't find this stuff anywhere locally. I used the zinc on the shaft and the moly on the clutch disc splines and clutch release fork shaft. I'm not sure if it will help I sprayed and wiped the inside of the bell housing with PB blaster, thinking maybe it will stop some future rust issues. Most likely it was a waste of my PB. I also opened and polished the shaft housing a few hairs.

 

[ModMech]

If you fix it with a bigger hammer, how long does the fix last?

Oh, I think that is a permanent fix!

 

[ModMech]

If you fix it with a bigger hammer, how long does the fix last?

Oh, I think that is a permanent fix!

 

[ModMech]

Ether will remove oil from cylinder walls no matter how little you use. Direct Injection diesels can handle quite a lot of ether in terms of cylinder pressure, not so much so with the wash-out.

Most ether is used during extreme cold, where the vapor readily condenses on cold engine parts, washing the oil smooth off of them. A case of ether is a mechanic's best friend.... it means many wallets full of dollar bills are about to change hands!

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I have a 2007 Kubota B7800, the problem is my clutch release rod seized up in the aluminum bell housing. I would like to know what type of anti seize or other lubrication to use. I didn't realize there were quite a few different types of anti seize available. Copper, Silver, Zinc, Nickel. None specifically say steel and aluminum application. Unfortunately it is a one time lubrication, so I definitely want something that will at least last till the next clutch job. The tractor only had 160 hrs. and is garage kept.

On dry clutches, I use a sparingly light coating of moly-based grease on clutch bits that need to be lubed like the pilot bushing or clutch release rod. The moly helps the grease hang in there. I use anti-seize on dissimilar metal applications that I need to remove or need to spin under certain conditions like spark plug threads, or PTO shafts shear bolt joints. I use sil-glide on brake calipers.