Smooth shaft Keyed PTO backing off / un-hooking????

[SPYDERLK]

Here is a link to the technical data sheet.
Cure time is a max of 24 hours but if faster cure is desired then an activator product can be applied to the parts first.
http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/docs/620-EN.PDF
I would take the time to clean all rust and crud off the parts before using.
If not using the activator I would wrap electrical tape around both ends of the parts to keep air out since the curing is anerobic.
It can deal with up to a 15 thousand of an inch gap ie. .015 which is a pretty sloppy fit!
I doubt the shaft is hardened but agree grinding or filing a flat spot for the set screw to bear against would be prudent.
Dave M7040

NJDiverDan to me it would be worth the chance on using the Locktite that Dave M7040 has provided information on. It's a little pricey and I don't mind helping other people spend their money. so give it a try and let us know . Some people get a chuckle when you mention stuff like JB Weld for repairs but I believe all farm repair shops need a room full of JB Weld...Locktite...Gorilla Glue...Duct Tape. Enjoyed reading everybody's idea and I've tried most of them.

Well I am debating on the loc-tite vs drilling a cross bolt. I like the idea of being able to remove the yoke easily but in realality I have never removed the implement side of any of my PTO shafts.

Going to get some on order tomorrow.

Know what you mean about trying to decide. One thing it is removable, any propane tank will easily heat it up to temp's necessary for removing it and won't hurt the shaft or the collar. You could protect the seal in the gear box from excess heat while removing but chances are the reason for removing the collar would be to repair the gearbox. . . and you would replace the seal anyway. I'm also going to add the locktite to my arsenal of repair junk. Good luck let us know how it holds up. I'm assuming from your location you'll have the chance to try it out soon.

I would not use this and count on getting it off with heat that doesnt compromise seals and bearings. #620 is strong up to 450F, and heat up to around 250 actually strengthens it. You would be better off with Loctite 635 or 638. ... Equally strong but they soften up in the 200 to 300 F range, and your shaft will never get above 120 or so unless you run out of oil. -- Also, avoid any accelerant other than moderate heat. Chemical accelerants usually weaken the product.
larry

 

[Steave]

In this case, there is a keyed shaft to handle rotational torque. The cross pin is just a backup to make sure it stays put.

Aaron Z

Don't know anything about snow blowers never even seen one! but I'm guessing this is not a normal setup. No mention about a slip clutch or shear pin

 

[JCByrd24]

Mine is just like that at the gearbox end (key for torque, bolt to keep it from sliding apart). Shear pin yoke is at the tractor end. Seems pretty standard.

 

[aczlan]

Don't know anything about snow blowers never even seen one! but I'm guessing this is not a normal setup. No mention about a slip clutch or shear pin

My 7' Loftness snowblower has a shear pin on the PTO shaft (built into the yoke), a shear pin on the fan and a shear pin on the shaft that drives the auger. There is no shear pin on the PTO shaft to Gearbox input shaft connection, hence the reason it has a keyed shaft (like the OP has). Fairly common on commercial equipment.
My bushhog has a shear pin like you are talking about that goes through the smooth (non-keyed) shaft on the gearbox and a C clip that goes into a groove on the gearbox shaft to keep the PTO shaft from getting loose when you break a pin.

Aaron Z

 

[NJDiverDan]

As stated above, the shear pins are at the tractor end of the PTO shaft as well as right before the chain drive. The gear box is of the open design so heat is not an issue, but I would imagine the heat stress of repeated heatings and cooling is not great for the metal.

Pretty sue at this point I am going to just cross drill it.

 

[Steave]

Mine is just like that at the gearbox end (key for torque, bolt to keep it from sliding apart). Shear pin yoke is at the tractor end. Seems pretty standard.

So this IS the normal setup. When NJRiverDan drills a cross bolt in his it should be fine.

 

[jimmysisson]

How about replace the set screw with a hex head longer bolt with a jam nut to hold it tight? Blue loctite should be fine for that application. I imagine there's room enough around the yoke.
Jim

 

[Steave]

I would not use this and count on getting it off with heat that doesnt compromise seals and bearings. #620 is strong up to 450F, and heat up to around 250 actually strengthens it. You would be better off with Loctite 635 or 638. ... Equally strong but they soften up in the 200 to 300 F range, and your shaft will never get above 120 or so unless you run out of oil. -- Also, avoid any accelerant other than moderate heat. Chemical accelerants usually weaken the product.
larry

The Technical Data Sheet for 638 shows it to be higher strength than for the 620 and requires the same heat (250 C) or (450 F) for disassembling. The 635 also requires the same heat for disassembling. Sounds like these all are about the same rating. By the way I've never seen any bearing mount substance work as it says and a good puller will break any of them loose.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The Technical Data Sheet for 638 shows it to be higher strength than for the 620 and requires the same heat (250 C) or (450 F) for disassembling. The 635 also requires the same heat for disassembling. Sounds like these all are about the same rating. By the way I've never seen any bearing mount substance work as it says and a good puller will break any of them loose.

Do these Data Sheets have graphs like the ones presented for #620? The prose, Im thinking, is a cookbook advice they give as ample and not strictly tailored to the specific product. The graphs, when perused and decoded, [watch out for those colors - they dont mean the same graph to graph] give more info and raise questions.

,,,Years ago I had a very sharp student trainee working with me and we decoded Loctite Data and made a bar chart rating their products. While decoding we made many calls to Loctite to clarify, and became quite notorious pinning them down on things that required more than single stage interpretation. We spent the manhours to get our engineering aid product [chart] as right as it could be. -- I sure hope it is.

We rated about a dozen of the the Retaining Compounds [green} and about the same number of threadlockers. Our Chart shows #620 as THE High Temperature Compound - holding above 75% strength to 232C [450F] -- At 250C youll still need a press, BFH etc! 635 is actually stronger but it [and 638] lose their strength at lower temp. ... Another issue with #620 is heat aging at 120C which can double its, already high, strength. -- Several of the Retaining Compounds exhibit this effect, but none perform nearly as well at high temp. It should show in their strength vs temp graphs. :confused3:
larry

 

[Steave]

Do these Data Sheets have graphs like the ones presented for #620? The prose, Im thinking, is a cookbook advice they give as ample and not strictly tailored to the specific product. The graphs, when perused and decoded, [watch out for those colors - they dont mean the same graph to graph] give more info and raise questions.

,,,Years ago I had a very sharp student trainee working with me and we decoded Loctite Data and made a bar chart rating their products. While decoding we made many calls to Loctite to clarify, and became quite notorious pinning them down on things that required more than single stage interpretation. We spent the manhours to get our engineering aid product [chart] as right as it could be. -- I sure hope it is.

We rated about a dozen of the the Retaining Compounds [green} and about the same number of threadlockers. Our Chart shows #620 as THE High Temperature Compound - holding above 75% strength to 232C [450F] -- At 250C youll still need a press, BFH etc! 620 is actually stronger but it [and 638] lose their strength at lower temp. ... Another issue with #620 is heat aging at 120C which can double its, already high, strength. -- Several of the Retaining Compounds exhibit this effect, but none perform nearly as well at high temp. It should show in their strength vs temp graphs. :confused3:
larry

Yes they have graphs I think dated 2013. I appreciate the testing you done and the advice. It seems all Technical Data Sheets should be gospel because as a layman thats all most of us have to rely on. Makes you wonder if the Safety Data Sheets are anywhere correct. When using anything like this I treat it as if its about to eat me and keep it off me as much as possible