New land... need a tractor!!

[ovrszd]

"... would handle these jobs well" I didn't comment on the majority of your extensive post. I just wanted to clarify this point for the OP... :laughing:

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

Good one!!!!

 

[IslandTractor]

I don't understand this kerfuffle about the 50 hp breakpoint Bullitt mentioned. Yes, he technically should have slipped the word "over" into the sentence that said at 50hp it's best to go with a utility size frame but is anyone really having trouble understanding his intent?? For starters, there really are no utility size tractors built these days that are less than about 60 hp. More importantly, his main point about CUTs over 40-50 hp being simply identical to the lower hp versions except for engine tuning is the critical (and correct) point.

Unless you have only PTO power concerns, it makes sense to ignore the overpriced 50-60hp CUT category and choose between a 40-50hp CUT (IMO 45 is top unless the 50 has stronger loader) or a utility tractor virtually all of which these days have 60 or more HP.

 

[ovrszd]

I don't understand this kerfuffle about the 50 hp breakpoint Bullitt mentioned. Yes, he technically should have slipped the word "over" into the sentence that said at 50hp it's best to go with a utility size frame but is anyone really having trouble understanding his intent?? For starters, there really are no utility size tractors built these days that are less than about 60 hp. More importantly, his main point about CUTs over 40-50 hp being simply identical to the lower hp versions except for engine tuning is the critical (and correct) point.

Unless you have only PTO power concerns, it makes sense to ignore the overpriced 50-60hp CUT category and choose between a 40-50hp CUT (IMO 45 is top unless the 50 has stronger loader) or a utility tractor virtually all of which these days have 60 or more HP.

I agree. And no flame intended toward anyone's tractor, but I believe anything 50hp and up should be on a Utility frame and no HST.

 

[jenkinsph]

Well we all have different perspectives I guess. Having a 60 hp compact and almost bought the 66 hp compact they do have some advantages over the lower powered models in the same frame size. The higher hp models are quicker and faster moving more dirt per hour. Still have the advantages of the hst too.

I also like the utility tractors and agree that they play an important role in this hp range and larger.

I disagree with the idea of this pruning of hp within such a small range of 40 to 75 hp. It really depends on how the tractor is used what works best. Proper selection of implements to take advantage of the tractor selected can go a long way to getting maximum benefit from which ever configuration you have.

 

[IslandTractor]

Well we all have different perspectives I guess. Having a 60 hp compact and almost bought the 66 hp compact they do have some advantages over the lower powered models in the same frame size. The higher hp models are quicker and faster moving more dirt per hour. Still have the advantages of the hst too. I also like the utility tractors and agree that they play an important role in this hp range and larger. I disagree with the idea of this pruning of hp within such a small range of 40 to 75 hp. It really depends on how the tractor is used what works best. Proper selection of implements to take advantage of the tractor selected can go a long way to getting maximum benefit from which ever configuration you have.

How can you move more dirt per hour? Most 50+ CUTs have the same loader as their 40-50 HP siblings. Traction becomes an issue if you are thinking of using a boxblade. I just don't see where more than 50 has any impact except with PTO.

 

[94BULLITT]

Well we all have different perspectives I guess. Having a 60 hp compact and almost bought the 66 hp compact they do have some advantages over the lower powered models in the same frame size. The higher hp models are quicker and faster moving more dirt per hour. Still have the advantages of the hst too.

I also like the utility tractors and agree that they play an important role in this hp range and larger.

I disagree with the idea of this pruning of hp within such a small range of 40 to 75 hp. It really depends on how the tractor is used what works best. Proper selection of implements to take advantage of the tractor selected can go a long way to getting maximum benefit from which ever configuration you have.

Your tractor is probably ballasted to the weight of a utility so you can actually use the power you have.

 

[jenkinsph]

How can you move more dirt per hour? Most 50+ CUTs have the same loader as their 40-50 HP siblings. Traction becomes an issue if you are thinking of using a boxblade. I just don't see where more than 50 has any impact except with PTO.

If you are climbing a grade with a full bucket of dirt the higher hp model will travel much faster, less time per trip. Pulling a box blade same thing, you can pull a fully loaded box of dirt faster, less time per trip. You can till the ground faster with a rotary tiller or disc too.

While the weight of two similar models may be the same having more hp available allows a higher ground speed. If you are making a lot of trips it can save lots of time.

 

[GManBart]

For starters, there really are no utility size tractors built these days that are less than about 60 hp.

That's not really the case. Most brands offer Utility machines that are under 60hp.

Current models that are readily available: Deere 5045E and 5055E (45 and 55hp), LS U5020 and U5030 (47 and 55hp), Kioti DK55 (55hp), Mahindra 5545 and 5555 (43 and 55hp), Kubota M5140 (52hp), New Holland Workmaster 50 (53hp), Massey Ferguson 2605 and 2615 (38 and 49hp), and probably others I'm overlooking. The HP figures are engine, not PTO.

 

[Gods Country]

I presume the OP is going to be in Tioga, Potter, northern Clinton/Lycoming area.
I would strongly recommend you look into the dealer network of your area before settling on a brand. I know around my area it's real sparse without heading up into NYS.

 

[jenkinsph]

Your tractor is probably ballasted to the weight of a utility so you can actually use the power you have.

Roger,
I have about 1100 lbs of weights on my tractor. The rear wheels have three 110lb. weights for 340lbs with hardware each, if filled with rim guard or similar it would be closer to 550lbs added for each tire. I have six 70lb front weights with grill and mounting hardware. You can have up to twelve 70lb weights. My tractor without fel weighs about 5500 lbs. I could increase the ballast to get to 6000 lbs. if needed.

As you are aware I do a lot of box blade work with this tractor moving lots of dirt leveling fields. Yet I can still inch up to someones new home with the hst and operate safely without too much fear of bumping into a wall.