Brush Fork DIY Build

[rjmack]

I am going to use 2"x2" 3/16" angle welded to the top of the left and right fork and then bolted to the side of the bucket. I am also planning on putting 2 legs under the bucket to kinda sandwich the forks to it.

built these some time ago, easy on/off, no issues w' bucket damage, easy to build. your mileage may vary.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/193825-easy-forks.html?highlight=easy+forks=

Just curious why you are using tubing for the tines. I built a set of forks that I use around 90% of the time. I used 1 1/4" ???? Sinker rod. It really holds up nice.

I used hss on mine because of the weight limitations of the loader on my scut. every pound the forks don't weigh, I can pile on something else.

 

[BKBoiss]

Makes sense.

 

[ticolawnllc]

I'm looking to build a at as well. I'm planing to use 1 1/4 inch tube 3/8 thick. I'm also going to make it a bucket on to its self. 4 tines spaces out to work as forks. It's for my bobcat ct 120. It can only pick up 700 lbs at the most and probably 400 lbs at the tip of the tines

 

[Mysfyt]

I'm looking to build a at as well. I'm planing to use 1 1/4 inch tube 3/8 thick. I'm also going to make it a bucket on to its self. 4 tines spaces out to work as forks. It's for my bobcat ct 120. It can only pick up 700 lbs at the most and probably 400 lbs at the tip of the tines

Thickest wall I see in that size tube is 3/16".

 

[Sodo]

Hi Sjay,

You may have seen my brush forks. Thread HERE.

I had a set that was bolted in, and it became a PITA. I used 1/2" bolts, and they NEVER moved. Never gave a hint that bolting (8" apart) was anything but PLENTY strong for brush forks.

Then I changed the attachment, so it slid into angle-iron 'slots'. The forks were 1/4" narrower than the bucket. I would NOT make it any tighter - 1/4" was enough trouble. The slot was much better, I could remove the forks quickly and scoop the dregs of a pile, then just slide the forks back in. I actually never did 'retain it' in the slots, and it never had any trouble. One day, thinking I'd better retain it before something happens, I instead scrapped the slots idea entirely and went to a Quick-Release system. I am very happy with it.

My forks are 1x2x1/8" x 50" tines. And theres FIVE tines. My tractor lifts about 900lbs in the bucket. Maybe you can apply this to your tractor's capacity. I had to add 1/8" doublers on my forks, top and bottom, and now they are much stronger and I think the right strength for my tractor. Here's what the 1x2x.120 tines look like with the doublers. I only added thickness where it was necessary. I'm glad it's no heavier than it is (but yours looks a bit stronger!).

 

[SJay]

Thanks for the info Sodo. Still in the fabrication stages. I think the 3/16" wall thickness will help the structural strength of the tines. I do like the way you attached the forks to your bucket. I am going to try and use them bolted on - if it ends up being a pain, I may change it later. When I get more of the forks done I will post more pictures.

 

[bcp]

I've been thinking again.

How about some brush forks that will slip/wedge over the bucket edge and bolt to the bucket in the rear, but will also slip over the points of the tooth bar when it is on. Probably with the rear of the forks under the bucket instead of inside. Long, horizontal tabs, with 2 holes each, outside the bucket for fastening. Or a strap to the rear of the bucket.


Another idea drifting around my head:

A 2 or 2.5 inch square bar that goes side to side, under and slightly behind the bucket edge and also fastens to the rear of the bucket. The bar has 4-6 six inch hitch receivers welded to the front of it. It would look sort of like a hitch receiver with a bunch of receivers instead of just one. Use 2 inch square tube forks. Fill all the receivers for brush forks. Fill just two for pallet forks. Maybe two different spacings for the pallet forks. Use very short "forks" for a tooth bar.

Bruce

 

[chim]

Did you consider hooking the front of the bucket lip running it under the bucket and chain or strapping to the top of the bucket from behind.

Here's an example of that. My "bucket hooks" are 3 sections of heavy angle with slots to drop the chain into - long piece in the center of the bucket and a short one closer to the loader arm on each side. Scroll down to Post #18:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...hp-kubota-bx2350-2.html?highlight=brush+forks

 

[BKBoiss]

Just a thought for those of you in the planning stages; I have five tines and that's fine for my logs I handle but with the brush I always wish I had more. I plan on building another set with more tines and a grapple one day.

 

[herringchoker]

built these some time ago, easy on/off, no issues w' bucket damage, easy to build. your mileage may vary.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/193825-easy-forks.html?highlight=easy+forks=

I used hss on mine because of the weight limitations of the loader on my scut. every pound the forks don't weigh, I can pile on something else.

I shamelessly copied rjmack's design, using scrap hollow tubing, with chains to anchor to the back of the bucket, and they work like a charm. Thanks rjmack!