hydrolic top link

[/pine]

Another advantage of a hydraulic top link is when using a boom pole...it basically eliminates the need for a crank winch, come-a-long, chain hoist etc., etc...IMO a HTL makes a boom pole a much more useful attachment...
I know that many operators with FELs and chain hooks don't bother with a boom pole...but I operate solo most of the time and I can see what I'm doing so much better (no spotter) when lifting and placing loads with a BP...

For instance...loading a large round (25"+) onto the splitter...if I use the thumb grapple on the FEL...I have to get on and off the tractor at least a couple of times because I just can't see...using the boom pole and tongs I can pick up and set the round perfectly on the splitter without leaving the seat...
Using a boom pole a HTL gives an operator the ability to move/center the tip of the boom over a load without moving the tractor i.e., out of the seat if need be...

While I'm harping on boom poles a couple of off topic thoughts...
First...a boom pole is probably one of the easiest 3ph attachments there is to add/remove...
Secondly...since I added a ball hitch to the base of my boom pole it has compounded its usefulness...prior to having the hitch on the BP once I dropped the trailer to load it with the FEL/grapple...I was bob-tailed with no rear counter weight...

BTW...I have nothing against bucket hooks and chain...but they work best with a ground man/spotter etc...

 

[Industrial Toys]

As far as getting what you pay for. Not always. I see too many respectable industrial supply houses selling the same junk you get at Princess Auto or Harbour freight. Just at higher prices.

The boom pole matter has me stumped! Our 3ph jib attached directly to the top link attachment point on the tractor. Not sure how a hydraulic top link could be employed.

 

[tman1020]

Yes, typically it is the valve that leaks. So a question, just how much of a bother is it when you are using an implement, your mower, whatever? I ask because for me, even with how bad my small tractor, rear remote leaks down, it does not affect my working, I'm sure that is why I have not messed with fixing the problem, in reality, so far anyway, it is not a problem worth worrying about. I'm not trying to say that this is not a problem, it can be a HUGE CONCERN. I have had customers that could not go even a few hundred feet without things getting out of adjustment so bad that work simply could no be accomplished, what is sad is this has been on brand new $35,000 tractors with factory remotes.:shocked:

The drift down is not something I can't live with but I can see where it would really bother some. All the same do you have a check valve kit that I could add to the cylinder that I purchased from you?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The drift down is not something I can't live with but I can see where it would really bother some. All the same do you have a check valve kit that I could add to the cylinder that I purchased from you?

Not at this time, it is on the back burner though.

 

[PSDStu]

Not at this time, it is on the back burner though.

I am looking forward to being able to purchase one of your sidelinks when they are available with a check valve!

 

[npalen]

I use a ball valve on the rod end port of the top and tilt cylinders to prevent leakdown. I don't have a cab on the Kubota so it's easy to reach back to them.

 

[Threepoint]

[snip]
Get a set of flow restrictors to slow down what you have now. A few dollars and it should get rid of your speed problem.

+1 on this. Brian set me up with flow restrictors for my top 'n tilt, and now sudden movement and jerky over-adjustment is a thing of the past. Amazing difference. Important to match the right orifice sizes for the cylinders.

 

[Fallon]

+1 on this. Brian set me up with flow restrictors for my top 'n tilt, and now sudden movement and jerky over-adjustment is a thing of the past. Amazing difference. Important to match the right orifice sizes for the cylinders.

Same here. My TnT setup from him came with em. I occasionally think of opening em up a hair bigger, but not much if I ever did. I couldn't imagine running em at full speed without restrictors. Slow gives you control & precision.

 

[npalen]

I drilled out the restrictor's I had purchased from Brian. They were originally 1/32" (.031) diameter and drilled them out about .006"/.008" larger and that made quite a bit of difference.