DIY ripper attatchment

   / DIY ripper attatchment #1  

pontio pilato

New member
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Messages
5
Location
nairobi
Tractor
mf 385
hello.am trying to build a DIY ripper attatchment to break up virgin land.i intend to use it with a MF385 4WD tractor(milat).the lower links seem somewhat weak for the job,so i am thinking of attatching the ripper to the rear axles using an articulated joint.is this safe,from a point of view of it might damage the tractor?how far apart are the best attatchment points?also,how high from the ground is the PTO?all help will be appreciated and acknowledged.thank you.
 
   / DIY ripper attatchment #2  
Hi. Welcome. There are several people on here that have made their own rippers. I am sure you will get some good ideas.
 
   / DIY ripper attatchment #4  
Interesting. Going to have to follow this one.
 
   / DIY ripper attatchment #5  
If I can get the picture to attach... Here is the homemade 3pt, cat 1 size, 5' wide tool bar I built...
I have loaded it with as many as 21 chisel toot diggers, spaced it to cultivate row crops, one or two row hillers, up to 4 bottom disk plow, two to five pasture renovator type ripper shanks, or a 5' wide de-thatching type rake..

I have used it for a lot of things.. Tilling for wildlife food plots, leveling ground, maintaining gravel roads, cultivating row crops, garden work, and other tasks..

Good luck..
==
ead1e9ca-b41a-462a-9768-4c181997f02f_zpse48f4acd.jpg
 
   / DIY ripper attatchment
  • Thread Starter
#6  
awesome,Wyobuckaroo!already getting ideas.if i may ask,is the 3pt mount sturdy enough to handle 3 chisel root diggers that go 2ft into the soil?
 
   / DIY ripper attatchment #7  
   / DIY ripper attatchment
  • Thread Starter
#8  
More likely to damage the tractor driver when it overturns. Use the drawbar or 3 point. A heavy pull needs to be from as low on the tractor as possible.

About 2/3 down this page is a section on "Drawbar Leverage."

Tractor Overturn Hazards ? Agricultural Safety and Health ? Penn State Extension

Bruce

thank you Bruce.the hazard is real,but am thinking of a way whereby the ripper hinges at a point just beneath the axles,with a hydraulic cylinder acting as a strut mounted at the top hitch point.that will lender the entire assembly kind of rigid to resist back tipping.of cause the cylinder will serve to raise and lower the ripper.
 
   / DIY ripper attatchment #9  
hello.am trying to build a DIY ripper attatchment to break up virgin land.i intend to use it with a MF385 4WD tractor(milat).the lower links seem somewhat weak for the job---- all help will be appreciated and acknowledged.thank you.

Weak, based on what?

Are they worn down or damaged?

They are designed to handle all of the pulling power that the tractor can provide.

You can put a shear pin on your ripper if it hits a big rock or root.
 
   / DIY ripper attatchment #10  
Agreed. The 3PH should handle whatever the tractor can pull.

Pushing is where they are weaker. (as in you going backwards).

Rippers are pulled from a 3PH all the time.

Not sure how big and heavy your 385 is, or what your tires are like, But pulling 3 shanks in the ground 2' is going to take some serious weight and power.

Most farmers in my area only subsoil around 12" depth just to break up the hard pack. Certainly no where near 2'. If they did that, you'd have to run new tile everywhere
 
   / DIY ripper attatchment #11  
PP, As Xfaxman and LD1 have already pointed out the 3tpl is the place where Harry Ferguson designed tractors to pull from for the simple reason that it is the only SAFE place.

I would call 2 feet deep a subsoiler. Terminology varies in different parts of the same country, and even more so in different countries. You have 85hp, so plenty of pulling power. Having done the same as you on several farms around the world - breaking in vrigin ground, I would suggest that you build your framework to be able to take 1, 2 and 3 subsoilers. One behind the centre of each rear wheel and one in the centre of the tractor. I think you will have sufficient height of lift on the 385 to be able to have them at a fixed two feet depth, but you might be able to arrange it also that you can have a variable depth (pins through the carrier and the leg) for transport and then lower them once you are in the field. My NH has limited lift height and this is what I did with my 3 leg subsoiler, also designed to go 2 feet deep. I only have 45 hp.

You could do some trial passes with a single middle leg. Then cover all your ground with the two legs behind the wheels. With two legs you straddle the previous pass so that one wheel is running where the centre line of the tractor was on the previous run across the field. This way you subsoil to the same effect as if you were pulling all 3 legs, although you do run on some subsoiled lines. You do not need to go the full depth on the first pass. Cross subsoil at right angles to this pass, perhaps with all 3 legs on, or just the two depending on your ground conditions. Again you do not need to go full depth. If necessary, make a third pass on the diagonal. This all takes time, but it is cheaper than hiring somebody with a big crawler to do the job for you. Perhaps like me there is nobody with such a machine anyway, so you have to do it yourself.

It is possible you might have to cover all the ground with only one central leg for the first pass. The important thing is not to go too deep with any number of legs so that the tractor is struggling to cope with the force of pulling the legs through the soil. It is better to go shallower first and then cross the land again. You might find you can go full depth with all 3 legs on the first pass, or you might find you can go 1 foot with 3 on the first pass and then 2 feet at right angles.

The speed at which you travel determines how much the soil is broken. Too slow and you simply make a line through the soil. Too fast and you are likely to bust something. To begin with choose a speed you think might be suitable, drive a few yards , get off the tractor and have a look to see what effect you have had on the soil. Nobody can tell you in advance the speed at which you should be travelling.
 

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