Diesel Generator

   / Diesel Generator #41  
I agree with the group that you can use a much smaller genset. I have a 9.75 KW Kubota powered and I can run my entire house. I do shed the hot water heater. On a longer outage I switch off the heat/ac for an hour or two, switch on the water heater to get it back up to temp. Also we do not run the dryer or oven when on backup power. Other than that, 3 heat pumps (3 zones, one 2 ton and two 1.5 ton units), 2 refrigerators and a freezer, well pump and normal lighting, TV computers, etc. On a normal load over a day I use 0.3 g/hr. Except as mentioned no real change in lifestyle when running.

Diesel is the right decision. It is the lowest cost to run, especially compared to a propane fueled unit. Fuel does not "go bad" over time like gasoline, plus you are already a diesel user with your tractors. Just consider an additive to control moisture and algae. I got my gen from Central Maine and picked the 9,75 KW Kubota powered. I have a Kubota tractor so there is some commonality in filters and parts, which was part of my decision. I added a GSC control for engine start and monitoring. My box is a 200 amp, but as mentioned you should consider that you will not be drying, baking and cooking at the same time. Although I have a 200 amp box the utility transformer on my property (just feeding my house) is only 10 KW. The utility power has a high surge capacity, but continuous power is relatively small. A smaller size will save purchase cost, lower cost to run and less space and cost to install. A 12-15 KW should be more than enough for a normal household. Oversize will cost more to run.

Central Maine was good to deal with. They carry a number of brands and sizes. based on many comments and reviews, STAY AWAY fro the Chinese units. Low reliability, poor quality and hard to find parts are a big issue.


Paul
 

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   / Diesel Generator #42  
I am not sure what wet stacking is???

But there is a Kubota 11,000KW with a 13,500KW surge that I really like, it is a portable unit that would simplify install greatly. But what will it run?? Like I said wife wants whole house as normal.

I am still researching I haven't pulled my card out yet.

Diesels wet stack when operated for extended periods of time lightly loaded . The combustion process and combustion chamber walls & stack are too cool . Unburned fuel, cylinder wall lube and water from combustion condense in the stack.
Don't blame me, it's the nature of the beast. Diesels are made to operate at full rated power for extended periods of time . Spark ignition engines are for light and varying loads .
 
   / Diesel Generator #43  
Glad my "user" tractors aren't deere's......sounds like they still have problems like the old slobbering models did...

SR
 
   / Diesel Generator #44  
Why should an 100% working diesel engine spit out unburned diesel? And what causes the degrade in performance?

The only reason for a diesel to spit out unburned fuel is loss of compression in a cylinder, but its tru that they often can spit out water an sot from the exhaust but that is just condense water from the exhaust system and not from the engine.

Nobody said a 100% diesel wet stacks ? It's the diesel putzing along under 1/3 power that wet stacks .
 
   / Diesel Generator #46  
How can the fuel get away from the combustion without getting ignited? The fuel is injected strait in to the combustion chamber in the top of the piston.
 
   / Diesel Generator
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Here is where I have decided to place the generator. Its the far side of the house and there is a 200amp sub panel. The house is made from ICF's so there is 3 inches of foam with 8 inches on concrete sandwiched between. I am hoping that is enough to muffle most noise.

I am going to have a slab placed where the ferns are.
1456244707595.jpg1456244730647.jpg

This is the inside panel. I am assuming the ATS will be wired in next to this panel.

1456244750090.jpg
 
   / Diesel Generator #48  
Ok so for what it's worth I'm going to add some of my experiences here.

First of all too light a load can affect gas generators also. While hunting if we run my 2200 watt Yamaha all night in the cold weather for a week on a light load the oil gets real thick. Probably a combination of an air cooled engine, light loads and below freezing weather resulting in incomplete combustion.

Secondly a generator is easy to run at full electrical load. It's done all the time to break in rebuilt engines. What you need is a plastic barrel with two electrodes in it. The electrodes need to be mounted on a piece of heavy plastic that insulates them from each other and supports them in the barrel. It's nice to have the electrode holder adjustable up and down to match the load to the generator but changing the water level will do the same job. The electrodes are hooked up to the electric output on the generator and they are adjusted up or down till the generator is running at full load. A bit of salt or baking soda in the water helps increase the electrical resistance if needed.

Adding a full load like this will cure any wet stacking problems. Probably done after running with a light load for a long time would be best. Just before changing oil would be good to. Those who say they haven't noticed any problems with wet stacking probably live in warmer climates and the motors run at operating temperatures even under light loads. An oil analysis would very likely show any problems with light loads if they exist.
 
   / Diesel Generator #49  
How can the fuel get away from the combustion without getting ignited? The fuel is injected strait in to the combustion chamber in the top of the piston.

The fuel is injected in small droplets. In modern diesels with higher pressure injection systems the droplets are smaller and need less time to burn. In older diesels not all of the droplets burned under light loads. And under a real light load (idling) on more modern diesels I'm sure not all of the small droplets burn either. Anything that doesn't burn either goes down the cylinder wall into the oil or puddles in the exhaust (wet stacking).

I was just going to add that Bank's Power Banks Power | Diesel Performance and Gas Performance Products has good articles (lower right hand side "Tech Articles") that use a lot more words than I do and explains the whole diesel combustion process a lot better than I can.
 
   / Diesel Generator #50  
Ok so for what it's worth I'm going to add some of my experiences here.

First of all too light a load can affect gas generators also. While hunting if we run my 2200 watt Yamaha all night in the cold weather for a week on a light load the oil gets real thick. Probably a combination of an air cooled engine, light loads and below freezing weather resulting in incomplete combustion.

Secondly a generator is easy to run at full electrical load. It's done all the time to break in rebuilt engines. What you need is a plastic barrel with two electrodes in it. The electrodes need to be mounted on a piece of heavy plastic that insulates them from each other and supports them in the barrel. It's nice to have the electrode holder adjustable up and down to match the load to the generator but changing the water level will do the same job. The electrodes are hooked up to the electric output on the generator and they are adjusted up or down till the generator is running at full load. A bit of salt or baking soda in the water helps increase the electrical resistance if needed.

Adding a full load like this will cure any wet stacking problems. Probably done after running with a light load for a long time would be best. Just before changing oil would be good to. Those who say they haven't noticed any problems with wet stacking probably live in warmer climates and the motors run at operating temperatures even under light loads. An oil analysis would very likely show any problems with light loads if they exist.
The OP stated earlier that anything beyond changing a light bulb is beyond him. How is he going to feel comfortable building an at home load bank????
 

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