GPintheMitten
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 3,291
- Location
- Flushing, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 with BH65 backhoe, Ford 2N
And you have the power line attached to it.
New House Build in the Country!!!
- Thread starter justinramani
- Start date
- Views: 97176
OP
justinramani
Gold Member
Well it stormed pretty good last night. We lost one of the roof ends - looks like the framers will have some extra work this AM...
Handloader109
Gold Member
Make sure that they rebuild from scratch, not prop up the damaged parts. It is Your house and you want it done right. Twisted broken lumber is trash.
But, put in more faucets outside than you think you should. Much easier than running through a fence you built later. And extra outlets heep plenty!
But, put in more faucets outside than you think you should. Much easier than running through a fence you built later. And extra outlets heep plenty!
SirReal63
Platinum Member
Justin, I did not see where anyone answered this, but the LP powered on demand is a winner. We used the Rheem EcoSense on our guest house (that we are living in while I build the big house) and it has been rock solid. We will be using the same on the main house. To put the energy consumption into perspective, in one year we used 63.4 gallons of propane, that was for cooking (I use the stove and oven almost daily) and hot water. We use a lot of hot water as there is no dishwasher. I was stunned that the propane usage was so small, I actually had the propane guy come check the gauge and fill the tank and the gauge was right, he stuffed the tank as full as he could and only used 63.4 gallons.
I would highly recommend getting the service valves to aid in cleaning the tanks. At least once a year you should run vinegar through the tank to de-scale them, the service valves make maintenance an easy task.
The house is coming along nicely. I will agree that the framers have done some things that I personally would not do, but I tend to overkill as much as I can. What they are doing is accepted and will hold up, it just may not be the absolute best way to do it. One thing about this community, you will always get a lot of differing opinions and experiences but everyone has your best interest at heart.
OP
justinramani
Gold Member
We had one step backwards with the storm, but today the framers have made some good progress...
OP
justinramani
Gold Member
Thanks so much for your insight! Looks like LP on demand is the way to go. What is your wait time to get hot water at the faucet?
SirReal63
Platinum Member
The wait time will depend on line diameter, pressure and distance from the HWH. Our Guest House is run in 1/2" PEX and it takes about 15 seconds to get hot water at the kitchen sink through roughly 15' of the 1/2" PEX with internal PEX connectors, which reduce the size greatly. The water pressure is 35-55 psi. We are so pleased with the performance of the one we have that we are installing two in the main house, one in the bathroom area and one in the kitchen. They make both internal and external units, the Guest House is internal with the vent piping going through the wall and the main house will be two external units to avoid the vent pipe.
fitter1
Silver Member
Instant hot water heaters are also instant freeze in low temps. Follow installation manual and contact factory for any need precautions.
crackerjack222
Silver Member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2011
- Messages
- 243
- Tractor
- 4430, Ford 7000, MF235
I had a 240k BTU vented propane tankless installed in my vacation house last summer when I had the walk-in basement finished out. It has a condensing boiler and is so efficient it uses pvc vent pipe. The plumber connected it to the hot water lines in such a way that it takes a long time (30-40 sec) to get hot water to the shower up-stairs but part of that is because of the flow-limiting valve in the shower. Of course, it never runs out of hot water :thumbsup: even with 11 people in the house. It also supplies the hot water for the radiant heat installed in the basement floor. On that note, I was surprised at how quickly the floor reached temperature. The concrete floor is roughly 24x42' and when we went there for Christmas, the unit had been turned off. The temperature in the basement was about 40*. I turned the radiant heat on and set the temp at 70* around 8 pm. When I went down there the next morning the temp was at 70 and the unit was cycling. The outside temp at that time was about 20*. With only limited experience with it, I am happy with it.
OP
justinramani
Gold Member
The one I'm looking at uses pvc pipe to vent. It requires a condensate line as well. It says that it's 94% efficient. I was pleased with our electric unit, but the amount to power it required in the panel was insane - 3 60a DP breakers IIRC. I also think that the electric units are limited to around 6-7 GPM whereas the LP units get up to 9.4 GPM and beyond.I had a 240k BTU vented propane tankless installed in my vacation house last summer when I had the walk-in basement finished out. It has a condensing boiler and is so efficient it uses pvc vent pipe. The plumber connected it to the hot water lines in such a way that it takes a long time (30-40 sec) to get hot water to the shower up-stairs but part of that is because of the flow-limiting valve in the shower. Of course, it never runs out of hot watereven with 11 people in the house. It also supplies the hot water for the radiant heat installed in the basement floor. On that note, I was surprised at how quickly the floor reached temperature. The concrete floor is roughly 24x42' and when we went there for Christmas, the unit had been turned off. The temperature in the basement was about 40*. I turned the radiant heat on and set the temp at 70* around 8 pm. When I went down there the next morning the temp was at 70 and the unit was cycling. The outside temp at that time was about 20*. With only limited experience with it, I am happy with it.
even with 11 people in the house. It also supplies the hot water for the radiant heat installed in the basement floor. On that note, I was surprised at how quickly the floor reached temperature. The concrete floor is roughly 24x42' and when we went there for Christmas, the unit had been turned off. The temperature in the basement was about 40*. I turned the radiant heat on and set the temp at 70* around 8 pm. When I went down there the next morning the temp was at 70 and the unit was cycling. The outside temp at that time was about 20*. With only limited experience with it, I am happy with it.
