Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer?

   / Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer? #1  

Jim Timber

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2014
Messages
1,433
Location
Metro/Brainerd, MN
Tractor
JD 5065e MFWD w/553 FEL
I'm starting to think about designs for a dual use heavy flatbed. I need something to haul my tractor (7100# without implements), and machines weighing up to 10,000#, but also bunks of lumber and whole logs. I have a Class 6 Chevy straight truck that can pull 10T, so that's not an issue. What I'm wondering is if it's possible to make a 7T trailer that's light enough to serve dual duty as a 5T behind a 3/4T truck?

Most 5T trailer builders are using 6" channel for the main frame rails. What if those were replaced with some heavier wall tubing in the 3/16-5/16" range? Could the weight saved from the flange flares be better utilized in the walls of the tubing? I know cost will be higher, but I should be ok vs buying when I don't factor my labor.

Suspension or no suspension? Cost, weight, complexity - is it worth springing heavy equipment and building supplies more than just sidewall flex?

Those who've built these in the past: what would you do differently than what you did, and what have you added that you've found invaluable?

As usual; any insights and discussion will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
 
   / Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer? #2  
With square tubing there is always the rust issue.
How about a removable gooseneck adapter?
 
   / Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer? #3  
Suspension: Yes. I've seen empty unsprung trailers on the highway bounce over a foot high on one side when hitting a pothole. And if it is a two-axle unsprung trailer, you will have many times when all the weight is in one axle, and even with both on the ground, the weight would almost never be equally shared. I would only have an unsprung trailer for low speed farm use and at tractor speeds on the road.

Bruce
 
   / Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer? #4  
If you build it as 7T you should have no problem towing it with a 3/4T truck. I have a 14K tilt bed trailer (rated for 10,300 load) and a 13,8K dump trailer (rated for 10,000 load). Both trailers weigh under 4K and I tow them with a 1/2T truck rated to tow 9600 lb. Of course when towing with the half ton the trailers are never at max load capacity. Each trailer usually weighs around 8500 loaded in this case.
It should have suspension. Building out of heavier steel will easily put your trailer weight well over 4K (probably closer if not over 5K empty).
 
   / Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
With square tubing there is always the rust issue.
How about a removable gooseneck adapter?

My C65 will have a 5yd dump bed on it as soon as I'm able to shorten the frame. These will be bumper pull - maybe with a lunette ring.

Gooseneck is a nice idea though.

Rust with tubing is a valid issue as well.

I'd like to keep this as light as possible for obvious reasons, but that's probably not going to make it a feather-weight trailer no matter how much I try. :)
 
   / Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer? #7  
Gooseneck is a nice idea though.
I've made a couple of these so far. A friend of mine wants me to convert his gooseneck dump trailer so he can remove the gooseneck, and go to bumper pull.
 

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   / Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
What do you end up gaining other than better weight distribution and turning radius?
 
   / Heavy Trailer: how would you make a 10/14K dual purpose trailer? #9  
I've been pondering the same thing Jim, sometimes I just don't need my goosneck and in my situation, it involves removing the rear sideboards and tailgate from my 450 dump. I'm starting to think that buying an old(er) used 10t. and replacing the tires, suspension, wiring if needed and a new deck. It seems that the paint job on this class of trlr does a good job of staying on and fighting the rust, and usually was owned by a contractor that is not dragging it around all winter in the nasty weather (salt). I prefer a dual tandem set up and have not priced those axles new yet, but it's looking like the $2500-$3500 that I see now & then go's a long way in frame metal and axles, not to mention priming & painting vs. a quick paintover if possible.
 

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