Equalizer Weight Distribution Hitch - Worthwhile on a Ram 1500

[BoylermanCT]

Agree with MMagis, stabilizers are usually used on 1/2 ton trucks and SUV's when hauling at the higher end of the load limit. I have one that I use with my camper, and it makes a big difference in towing. My 1/2 ton SUV has a 6,500 lb tow limit but only 400 tongue weight limit. According to Chevy, weight distribution hitch allows up to 650 lbs on tongue.

 

[4570Man]

I have a F-350 with airbags and a 3500 without. It seems to make a big difference. The Chevy is a stiff truck and hardly squats with 3 tons in the back. The air bags don't help much from squatting, but seem to be a bit improvement in leaning side to side when you hit a bump. It isn't a fair comparison though. We don't load the Ford as heavy. The heaviest load the Ford hauls is the tongue weight of a gooseneck or a heaping load of split fire wood. The Chevy has a dump bed and we use it for the heavy hauling. A big heaping load of logs or 5 ton of gravel doesn't bother it. The towing capabilities of either of the trucks is night and day difference from my Chevy 1500. The Ford has a 5.4 liter motor ( pretty wimpy for a ton truck) and the Chevy 1500 has a 5.3 liter. Everything else on the ton truck is substantially heavier duty.

 

[LD1]

5 ton of gravel on a 1-ton dump

 

[4570Man]

5 ton of gravel on a 1-ton dump

I try to keep it to about 3 tons, but that 1 ton was only a suggestion. It hauls 3 tons pretty good. Any less than 3 tons and it will still take off in 2nd gear without riding the clutch.

 

[Ford850]

I think if you back the mower on and detach it up front, then drive or back the tractor on with the blade on the rear, you will have a better balanced trailer. And agreeing with most, the WD hitch is needed anyway.

 

[Cord]

I use a weight distributing hitch all the time when hauling my flat deck trailer behind my F150. The truck is sprung softly enough that not using it results in excessive squat. Started using the hitch back when I had a Dodge 2500. With that truck I found that it needed front axle weight so it would handle decent. That truck also had air bags so I can compare the two systems. Although the air bags would level the truck, they would also take weight off the helper springs so the back end wasn't as solid. The bags also don't put any weight on the front axle which is what the truck really needed. The antiquated steering in my truck is probably the same system your truck has so to answer your original question; yes, I recommend the use of a weight distributing hitch.

 

[Snowback]

Thanks again to everyone for all the input. Just a quick update that I did recently have the Airlift manual inflation bags installed into the rear coils. (Same as shown in first post.) Relatively easy job, and with 35 psi it gives substantial support to the rear end. A guy could haul a lot in the bed and not even see a ride height difference.) I did not think to grab pictures, but with 20 pounds of air I was able to back off the torsion bar tension some and get a really nice balance on the ride. Hauled great at 65-70 mph with no sway, wobble or porpoising at all.

Agree with comments above about false security with just the bags and no WDH. On our neighborhood street test I was able to counteract most of the squat with just the bags, but then steering was light due to the fulcrum effect, so I backed down pressure and let the hitch help out more. The bags are also easy to get up to pressure with just a hand pump, so no need for compressor if only using a few times a month in my opinion.

Bottom line - Weight distribution hitch coupled with minor help from coil insert bags provide a really nice max load towing experience with a later model Ram 1500. (Also trailer brakes and in cab controller.) Just make sure you have appropriate rated tires, aren't in a race, and leave plenty of room to stop so as not to have to abuse brakes. Stay safe all!

 

[Sprinklerman]

The one thing not touched on is the trucks tires . the WD hitch transfers weight to the front wheels . Tires on 1/2 tons arent as heavy as 3/4 tons . Airbags dont increase tire capacity . The WD hitch works .

Now heres what I run on my travel trailer , Trailer Sway Control Hitch Guaranteed to Eliminate Trailer Sway - ProPride 3P.

NO TRAILER SWAY AT ALL .

 

[Snowback]

Agreed Sprinklerman. I run 34" E load rated tires at 45psi. This is an important point for half ton pilots when stretching load limits.

 

[rankrank1]

Nice upgrades to your Ram 1500 to make it tow better, but do keep in mind that it may not help you from the what is "legal" towing perspective.

Most of those Rams 1500 have the lowest payloads of all 1/2 tons trucks with some being in the neighborhood of only 1000 to 1200 lbs or less payload (most of the competition is in the 1800 lb to 2100 lb payload range or more with their half tons).

So generally speaking anything above one 150 lb driver placed in the truck has to be subtracted from both the payload capacity and the tow capacity at a rate of 100% of whatever those weights are. Fat drivers over 150 lbs, spouse, kids, dogs, tools, Quads, camp gear, etc. All those extra have to be subtracted at 100% from both the payload and tow capacity of the truck if placed in the truck.

Your only hope with staying legal with that rig is putting absolutely nothing in that truck besides yourself and then placing all cargo (no people of course) on the trailer balanced as best you can. At least this way your towing capacity is the highest it can be and only 10% of the trailer weight ends up as payload on the truck (assuming you balance it well) which is still gonna max out the puny Ram's payload capacity.

I am not saying the truck will not handle it with your upgrades, but if you ever in an accident (whether your fault or not) you better well be "legal" or you may find out you have zero insurance. Having no insurance may not be much of a problem if you own nothing and live paycheck to paycheck anyhow, but if you have assets then you will soon join the former category when the insurance companies look for any reason they can not to pay.

 

[Snowback]

do keep in mind that it may not help you from the what is "legal" towing perspective.

Thanks rankrank1. Egon also pointed this out and I agree wholeheartedly. Great insights and very true about the insurance and potential liabilities, etc... Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

The realities of a half ton pickup constraint and the legal and rating limitations are what originally led me to the Mahindra 2538. It was the biggest, strongest tractor in my budget that would still be within the capabilities and limits of my existing half ton that is used to tow it occasionally. I'd love to have a new 3/4 ton, but just can't justify it for perodic use and it would be less practical for all the town, city and highway driving I do.

I did make sure and look at the 1500's ratings and they are not stellar due to the great riding coils, but with the WDH I still fall within range. (Although your point about hauling around 4 beefy friends, or placing a quad in the box of the truck would change the payload picture in a big way over just a single driver, and in fact could not legally be done when hauling this load as you point out.) I find it funny that they only allow 150 pounds for a driver. I haven't weighed that since 10th grade!

Here is the rating matrix for the 2011 Rams - http://www.ramtrucks.com/shared/pdf/RAM_1500_4x4_Trailer_Tow_Chart.pdf

You know - this really makes me wonder how many 3/4 tons are running around pulling big trailers that are way over their payload ratings? (With five 250 pound laborers in the cab...) You don't see too many 1 ton trucks in the non commercial arena, but I've seen hundreds of 3/4 tons pulling large tractors or other loads on bumper pulls with the bed full of welders and concrete mixers etc... When I see the rear end of a 3/4 ton hauling a big trailer squatted down on the bumpstops I try to get past it in a hurry, or slow way down.

These types of things cause me to skirm...

Imagine trying to stop this in a hurry.

This trailer looks none too happy.

 

[newbury]

The one thing not touched on is the trucks tires . the WD hitch transfers weight to the front wheels . Tires on 1/2 tons arent as heavy as 3/4 tons . Airbags dont increase tire capacity . The WD hitch works .

Now heres what I run on my travel trailer , Trailer Sway Control Hitch Guaranteed to Eliminate Trailer Sway - ProPride 3P.

NO TRAILER SWAY AT ALL .

Dang, that cost more than my trailer. And tires on half tons CAN be rated higher, a real simple upgrade.

Most people hauling equipment have a truck suited for doing so. The stabilizing hitch seems to be most common for those with half ton trucks but need to haul larger loads only a couple times/year.

I use a WD because my manual says "over 5,000 lbs needs WD" even though the truck and hitch are rated for 12K.

<snip> It was time for a little research. A quick, but fairly exhaustive effort keyed me on to what was needed for a half ton to manage a loaded 20' Medium duty trailer, (10,000+/- pound capacity). Bumper pull was my only reasonable option for this half ton truck, and at this length the tongue weight can get up there, especially when hauling multiple implements.

This trailer is loaded with the unit that will be tackling the new property. A Mahindra 2538 with FEL, Med Duty 6' Cutter, 6' HD Box Blade, and a 60" Grapple. It all registers at +/- 8,400 pounds incl trailer and chains/binders. The picture shows that there is probably more than 10% on the tongue.
<snip>

However, I have not seen it mentioned that hauling a trailer rated for 10K with a truck rated for 8.5K is potentially a law breaker even if the trailer is empty.

If you look clean, legal and NOT commercial probably no problem.

This thread reads like the OP is trying to do everything correctly. But as I mentioned I only haul my 12K trailer with my dually. It barely squats with 3K in the bed and 1K + on the tongue.

 

[LD1]

Wow, a t250 is about 9500 pounds. So two of them in that little trailer....and behind a SRW....yea, people are stupid.

The skidder...probably heavier yet. But hard to criticize that one, it may not have seen public roads. Might just be going from lot to lot on private forest roads???

 

[civilian]

The skidder...probably heavier yet. But hard to criticize that one, it may not have seen public roads. Might just be going from lot to lot on private forest roads???

From my experience, with the skidder, it is faster to drive it on the forest roads going between jobs. A lot of them have a road gear. Notice the mobile home axles under the skidder and the three blocks of wood used to load unit? No way would I want to move that load behind any pickup. Put it on a lowboy behind a semi.

 

[rankrank1]

Thanks rankrank1. Egon also pointed this out and I agree wholeheartedly. Great insights and very true about the insurance and potential liabilities, etc... Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

I did make sure and look at the 1500's ratings and they are not stellar due to the great riding coils, but with the WDH I still fall within range. (Although your point about hauling around 4 beefy friends, or placing a quad in the box of the truck would change the payload picture in a big way over just a single driver, and in fact could not legally be done when hauling this load as you point out.) I find it funny that they only allow 150 pounds for a driver. I haven't weighed that since 10th grade!....

Yes I agree the fine print is always the catch and while I agree the 150 lb driver is ridiculous it is all about the manufacturers creative marketing and it is a way to make the numbers all appear better than they really are. If and when all maunufacturers finally adopt SAE J2807 instead of their own internal ratings then things will get a little better but the fine print will still be there.

Do keep in mind your upgrade from your standard tires to those bigger/and much heavier load range E tires probably swallowed up about 100 to 125 lbs of your payload too as they weigh a lot more....(Not being critical as I upgraded my 1500 to load range D tires and they weigh about 22 pound more per tire than the original LT tires did). The heavier tires handle a trailer lots better though but they did swallow up some payload.

I am not saying that you can not stay legal with your rig but it will be more of an effort than most think about. .Most people who tow heavy regularly usually hit the payload limit long before the max towing limit and hence the need for a 2500 to stay legal. Not pushing a 2500 either as I am still a 1500 user/abuser but do my best to stay as close to legal as I can. That said, I do have the advantage of more payload in my 1500 than those Ram coils offer but it still is very much a struggle at times.

 

[joefromga]

Would heavier but stronger tires really use up payload? They are unsprung weight so they wouldn't affect load capability but may affect braking to some extent.

 

[LD1]

Would heavier but stronger tires really use up payload? They are unsprung weight so they wouldn't affect load capability but may affect braking to some extent.

Correct in theory, but in reality......the whole truck gets weighted, tires and all. There is a given GVWR. If its exceeded....you are illegal. Adding weight to the tires, adds weight to the scale....so you have less legal capacity

 

[Snowback]

Just a quick update and note of thanks for the suggestions and advice above. *** Disclaimer - I am not finished yet and appreciate that I still have some load balancing and shank work to do, so please don't crucify me for sharing this interim update.

I hauled 40 miles today after a few more tweaks and it was flawless. Really impressed with the equalizer and the airlift brand bags. I only use about 20 psi in the bags and the equalizer is just helping out to keep rear squat at less than an inch with the front coming up about same amount from unloaded height. I have a leveling kit on the truck so it's already a touch taller than stock - and those are 34" tires too. The only small remaining problem there is that the shank that comes with the equalizer is a touch too short, so I am having to put the trailer tongue about two inches too high and thus getting more leverage on the truck as the front trailer axle isn't taking it's full share of the load. I have a 14,000 pound Curt shank coming that I will switch out with before next trip. Even though it's not perfect yet, we're getting very close. That hitch makes the interstate drive very pleasant.

Also adjusted load and moved tractor back about 3' as suggested and also unbolted and flipped up tail wheel while flagging the portion of cutter hanging off back. I can load the box blade and then pull up with the bucket in the grapple and then set it down just behind the box blade. A couple of chains, a couple straps and bingo! Perhaps this thread will be helpful to those who would like to multi task with their Ram half ton. Just be sure to leave room to stop and don't get in a race!


First pic shows it is almost there. Just need to get that longer shank on to get the trailer level and balance trailer axle loads. This pic shows plus 3/4" in front and minus 3/4" in rear. I can probably scoot tractor back another foot as well. Need to check TX rules on max overhang. I thought it was four feet allowed, but I need to confirm.)

Loading order. First box blade, then grab bucket and hook up cutter. Place grapple bucket on trailer floor just behind box blade and then flip tail wheel up and flag the overhanging part of cutter.

Here is stock equalizer set up with their shank in the lowest position. It just needs another 2" to get the trailer level with the truck essentially level as well. (So I guess that would be net 3" more for the new shank if including truck rear going back up a bit - will experiment.)

 

[Snowback]

Final report - success achieved

Static unloaded truck measurements to wheel well lip - Front 38", Rear 40". Using Equalizer Hitch and coil helper bags with 30 psi.

BEFORE - TRUCK NOSE HIGH AND TRAILER TONGUE HIGH - Equalizer provided shank with hitch at lowest setting and all implements on trailer with reasonable balance: Measurements to wheel well lip and bottom of trailer frame. Truck - Front 39", Rear 38" Trailer - Front 18", Rear 15"

AFTER - LEVEL TRUCK AND TRAILER - New longer Curt shank with hitch lowered 2.5" and all implements on trailer with reasonable balance: Measurements to wheel well lip and bottom of trailer frame. Truck - Front 39", Rear 39" Trailer - Front 16.5", Rear 16" (Lots of forces moving around here as more weight is placed on front axle of trailer - ride is really good now.)

Thanks one last time for all the suggestions folks!

Be safe.

 

[tcartwri]

Looks good. I haul virtually the identical load with my 14 bighorn. Air bags only, a thousand pounds on the ball and it pulls perfect. 30 psi in the bags though.