The great Grate not so great

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Only ran it at full tilt a couple times this winter because it was only in or near the 0 degree range, and then every other week or so I burn the coals down so they fall in the ash pan below so the grate get the hottest when I do that.
Don't know but doesn't titanium burn?

Yes, shavings of it burn. Maybe not the best idea. I tig weld the pure version, grade 2 titanium at work.

 

[Oldpath05]

Not an expert, but like most everyone else I do have a comment. It seems to me that your stainless may not be what it's supposed to be. If I'm not mistaken, SS should have a MP somewhere between 2000 degrees F and 2700 degrees F. A typical wood fire probably won't reach any where near 2000 degrees, unless maybe it's a charcoal fire or with forced air. Even cast iron has a MP in the 2000 degree range. If it were me (and it's not) and I had the equipment and knew how to weld (which I don't) I would buy some 3/4" square stock and make 2 or 3 grates and go from there!

That's exactly what I remember hearing when I had a guy relined my chimney 10-15 years ago. He used Stainless stove pipe with SS rivets, and told me it's garranted for life and wood heat cant get hot enough to hurt it, now I'm not so sure.

FWIW, Side note on SS stove pipe, 1st 5 year's I never had to clean it, then one year it had a little build up so I clean it with a steel brush and that scratches SS stove pipe. Now I have to clean it every year, which I don't mind but now I use a plastic brush, so if you get a new SS chimney liner, use a plastic brush to clean it.

 

[Oldpath05]

No9t sure if I'm A, B or C but anystainless is no good for a grate (other than it's expensive. You need fire plate steel, not stainless.

I think your right, SS not good for wood stove grate. Oh and you sound like your in the C group.

 

[Oldpath05]

I just buy a piece of expanded metal and cut to size

What's expanded metal? does that have rubber in it.

 

[Oldpath05]

I need more information.

I would have not doubted the ability of the SS to stand the stresses you put it under.

What type of wood are you burning?? Have you measured the temp of your fires??

I can get 600F temps on the outside of my homemade stuff pretty easy. I've not measured the internal temps. If we get a cold snap in a few days I'll fire up and see how much heat I can create. My fire lays on 1/4 thick steel plate with 1/5" holes burned in it. I also have a small fan that forces air up thru the ash box. I can build a very hot fire. I'll report my results.

The wood that I burn mostly is Beach, Birch and Maple, all begins with A.
I think the cold is done for this season, but if you have a way to measure the inside temp of a wood stove, I'd be curious. Sounds like that 1/4" plate is holding up preaty good and where is 1/5" on a tape measure, I need more information

 

[Oldpath05]

Yes, shavings of it burn. Maybe not the best idea. I tig weld the pure version, grade 2 titanium at work.

You got my curiosity, what are you making out titanium?

 

[CalG]

Cast iron is the most useful material.

The other's (mild steel, SS etc.) oxidize too quickly. It's not a matter of melting, the steel in SS is "burning" on the presence of oxygen.

 

[ovrszd]

The wood that I burn mostly is Beach, Birch and Maple, all begins with A.
I think the cold is done for this season, but if you have a way to measure the inside temp of a wood stove, I'd be curious. Sounds like that 1/4" plate is holding up preaty good and where is 1/5" on a tape measure, I need more information

I burn hickory, oak, hedge, locust and ash. Real common for the door on my stove to reach 600F.

I'll use a laser temp meter.

Mistyped, meant 1.5".

 

[/pine]

First thing first, I noticed there are at least three kinds of people on TBN, the A B C group. The A group says, there's all kinds of threads on subject why not go there. The B group says why did you revive a 6 + year old thread bla bla. The group C says, I have some ideas that you can try and or what could possibly work and or not work..... they don't care about the A&B group. I'm in group C and don't want input from the A&B group. :thumbsup:...

Stereotyping members is not really using the best tact IMO...

Honestly...I don't think anyone that replies to a viable question has an intent other that helping answer the question...Granted...not everyone is an expert or is a "hand-holder" and are happy to point you to information that may go beyond their own knowledge/experience etc...

Those that post a reply informing a member that they have responded to a dated thread is an act of courtesy...older threads still hold a cornucopia of useful information...but because of the chronology...members, links etc... come and go and many older threads were posted to by members that are no longer active etc. and posting new questions to dated threads may not get the responses a new thread on the same subject will achieve...

All popular message boards have contributors that tend to comment on just about any topic they may have (even remote) experience with...or offer opinions even if they don't...

My point is...Don't throw the baby out with the bath water...:thumbsup:

 

[5030]

You got my curiosity, what are you make out titanium?

Titanium is nice for rifle actions. I have a few. Very expensive to machine but oh so light and strong. If you want a long lasting grate and don't mind the ecpense, make one from Inconel. Thats what is used in the combustion sections of heat treat furnaces. It ain't cheap, has to be TIG welded but will outlast you and your wood burner.