Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[farmer2009]

Yea the plastic ones are nice they don't ruin a chain. I've got some that are pretty blunt from some small diameter tree work. Not enough room for saw and wedge, but needed some guidance for felling. Never have broken one though I figure there is a first for everything.

I'd think the aluminum ones would mushroom and chip bad along with being hard on a chain. Although not as bad as steel.

 

[dieselcrawler]

The one wedge I have is plastic. It has a nice notch in it that seems to fit my saw chain perfectly. I'll not admit to knowing how it got there... *grin*

 

[farm boy00]

The one wedge I have is plastic. It has a nice notch in it that seems to fit my saw chain perfectly. I'll not admit to knowing how it got there... *grin*

Those dang ghost are always causing trouble with people's tools

 

[rd_macgregor]

My orange plastic wedges are probably about 20 yrs old. A couple of years ago, a big chunk popped off the fat end of one of them when I was tapping it in...so they will break eventually.

 

[John_Mc]

There's more than one way to skin a cat, that's for sure. Ever since I took a full day chainsaw class (I know that doesn't make me an expert) I started using an open face notch like this:

The goal is for the length of the hinge to be 80% of the diameter of the tree. This can usually be achieved only a few inches into the tree. No need to cut such a deep face cut. Follow this with a bore cut to set the hinge at the right thickness (10% of the diameter in most cases) and you're making good progress. Move the bar back away from the hinge leaving a small "trigger". Set a wedge in the kerf for good measure. Double check the landing zone, cut the trigger, tap the wedge if need be, and there she be.

Sound like you took one of the "Game of Logging" classes. They are not cheap, but I found them very worthwhile. I've been through levels 1-4 and also taken their "storm damage clean-up" class. We're fortunate to have one of the better GOL training franchises here in Vermont. I highly recommend them to anyone using a chainsaw in the woods. There are a few other good folks out there teaching the same techniques under a different name. (Unfortunately, there are also a few people who took a couple of courses and figure that makes them an expert and started their own chainsaw training programs. Those types are dangerous. They just don't have the experience to be teaching something like this.)

BTW... for those who have not taken the class, the 80% an 10% numbers that Motownbrowne refers to are as compared to the tree's DBH (diameter at breast height, or 4.5 ft above the ground). So if you have a tree with a 10" DBH, but the butt flares to 15" down where you are cutting it, you still only need a hinge length of 80% x 10" = 8".

 

[John_Mc]

?..and has any one ever used one of these:

Bahco ® Tree Felling Lever | GEMPLER'S

I don't own a tree felling lever, but have used one several times. It works on "smallish" trees (6" DBH or less), but I found it more trouble than it was worth on a decent sized tree. I found it not worth the trouble to carry around with me on my tree felling. If a tree was small enough for that to be effective, I usually had other ways of overcoming back lean. If I had a whole lot of smaller trees to fell, maybe I'd consider borrowing one to use while on that project.

 

[motownbrowne]

Sound like you took one of the "Game of Logging" classes. They are not cheap, but I found them very worthwhile. I've been through levels 1-4 and also taken their "storm damage clean-up" class. We're fortunate to have one of the better GOL training franchises here in Vermont. I highly recommend them to anyone using a chainsaw in the woods. There are a few other good folks out there teaching the same techniques under a different name. (Unfortunately, there are also a few people who took a couple of courses and figure that makes them an expert and started their own chainsaw training programs. Those types are dangerous. They just don't have the experience to be teaching something like this.)

BTW... for those who have not taken the class, the 80% an 10% numbers that Motownbrowne refers to are as compared to the tree's DBH (diameter at breast height, or 4.5 ft above the ground). So if you have a tree with a 10" DBH, but the butt flares to 15" down where you are cutting it, you still only need a hinge length of 80% x 10" = 8".

Yeah, i was referring to DBH, thank you for clarifying. The class I took was through FISTA, Forest Industry Safety & Training Alliance. I don't think they are associated with GOL, but I'm not sure. Same structure, though: changes chainsaw classes 1-4, storm cleanup, and cutting for grade.

I've only taken the first level. I'd take the rest in a heartbeat, even at $100 a pop, but they don't offer many classes that are open to the public. They'll come teach at your location, but require 12 people to sign up, which I don't think I could come up with. Seriously worth the money, though.

Here's a link to their page:FISTA-Forest Industry Safety & Training Alliance, Inc., Rhinelander, WI 5451 715-282-4979

 

[KiwiBro]

How come you prefer them over plastic?? Thanks.

I don't, except in big trees and when needing a heap of pounding. They feel better in that scenario. I was just seizing the moment to suggest other types while the wedges awakening was in full bloom.

Another would be hard-head plastic wedges (a steel layer at the head to better handle impact).

There's a significant variation in plastic wedges too. K&H red heads are darn good. It isn't much fun relying on crap wedges either:

 

[rekees4300]

When plastic meets reality!

 

[Topesrule]

what do you guys carry around for pounding in wedges? we used an axe this winter but it's easy to lose. I usually ended up cutting a piece of wood when i needed to hit them. I was thinking a 4lbs maul on my belt but it could be awkward in the woods.