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crystallake
Bronze Member
Thanks fellows, especially Bruce, you one smart Dude. :cool2:
Welded fence braces
- Thread starter crystallake
- Start date
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BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,753
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
C4 - "What kind of T post driver do u have?"
99E-M Post Driver 2 - 7/8" Max Diameter Recommended For Military Use and Drill Stem - Rohrer Manufacturing
I chose that one 'cause it can handle up to 2" square tubing - bought it with extra T post adapter and one 2" square adapter. Won't make THAT mistake again, they charge quite a bit for adapters - if you have basic machining ability (drill holes and tap them) AND a plasma or Acetylene torch you can make your own, up to max of the specific model you get.
I wanted a bit more "oomph" than a straight T post (only) driver, so I made an adapter with 2" square tube upper, 4" square tube lower - a 4x4 is 3.5" across, fits into 3/16" wall 4" square tubing - I set up a jig for my chop saw to "pencil point" 4x4's. After cutting I soak the ends in a pail of (IIRC) Copper Green, then as long as I don't try this in dead of summer, the bigger unit will drive a 4x4 into my clay soil in a minute or two.
Even this larger unit will run just fine on my little "double hot dog" airless compressor. Only downside, other than higher $$$, is weight (as I discover every year
)
HTH... Steve
99E-M Post Driver 2 - 7/8" Max Diameter Recommended For Military Use and Drill Stem - Rohrer Manufacturing
I chose that one 'cause it can handle up to 2" square tubing - bought it with extra T post adapter and one 2" square adapter. Won't make THAT mistake again, they charge quite a bit for adapters - if you have basic machining ability (drill holes and tap them) AND a plasma or Acetylene torch you can make your own, up to max of the specific model you get.
I wanted a bit more "oomph" than a straight T post (only) driver, so I made an adapter with 2" square tube upper, 4" square tube lower - a 4x4 is 3.5" across, fits into 3/16" wall 4" square tubing - I set up a jig for my chop saw to "pencil point" 4x4's. After cutting I soak the ends in a pail of (IIRC) Copper Green, then as long as I don't try this in dead of summer, the bigger unit will drive a 4x4 into my clay soil in a minute or two.
Even this larger unit will run just fine on my little "double hot dog" airless compressor. Only downside, other than higher $$$, is weight (as I discover every year
)HTH... Steve
OP
crystallake
Bronze Member
BukitCase tell me about Copper Green, I thought it was a wood preserver.???
OP
crystallake
Bronze Member
Eddie, I dont understand what you meant:
" Usually you set a post, or pipe straight into the ground with about a foot sticking up. Then weld it all together."
" Usually you set a post, or pipe straight into the ground with about a foot sticking up. Then weld it all together."
BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,753
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
Sorry, wasn't totally clear about the "4x4's" - Copper green IS a wood preserver, I was referring to pressure treated 4x4 posts driven into the ground - I cut "pencil points" on the wood posts, but PT lumber doesn't really get soaked very deep so when you cut it, it'll last longer if you re-soak the cut part before you drive the posts.
The OTHER 4x4 I mentioned is ACTUALLY 4" x 4", as in steel tubing - I used a 6" long piece of that, capped it with 1/2" flat bar, then welded a piece of 2" square tube on that cap and capped the top end of the 2x2 - this is because the air powered driver I have normally fits over whatever post you're driving, but they don't sell one big enough to fit a 4x4 wood post directly (plus they cost about $100 more, and I was already at $700)
With my adapter, I insert just the adapter into the post driver, tighten the set screw, then slide the wood 4x4 into the BIG end of the adapter, tip it all up vertical and flip the trigger.
If any of this is still confusing, check out the link I posted - they have a couple videos of the process... Steve
The OTHER 4x4 I mentioned is ACTUALLY 4" x 4", as in steel tubing - I used a 6" long piece of that, capped it with 1/2" flat bar, then welded a piece of 2" square tube on that cap and capped the top end of the 2x2 - this is because the air powered driver I have normally fits over whatever post you're driving, but they don't sell one big enough to fit a 4x4 wood post directly (plus they cost about $100 more, and I was already at $700)
With my adapter, I insert just the adapter into the post driver, tighten the set screw, then slide the wood 4x4 into the BIG end of the adapter, tip it all up vertical and flip the trigger.
If any of this is still confusing, check out the link I posted - they have a couple videos of the process... Steve
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Couple of pictures showing what I'm describing. Just the H brace might be alright, but if you have a long run, bad soil or you just want to make it as strong as possible, you need to add diagonal bracing. The way I've seen it done is that they drive a shorter length of pipe into the ground somewhere around 4 to 5 feet down with one foot sticking up. Then they cut and weld their diagonal brace from that short length of pipe sticking up to the end of the H brace.
