Buying Advice Seeking advice for first tractor

[redman135]

Ergonomics and dealer support are the 2 main points to consider.
Put your bulkiest clothes and large work boots on. (winter gear you are least agile)
Sit on the tractor. was it easy to get on/off?
Is there plenty of foot room?, footing slippery or secure?
seat comfortable?
controls comfortable reach? (test in action, not parked)
Dealer: are you happy to deal there?
what is the work shop like?
proximity?/transport / call-out costs etc

 

[dave3NC]

1,000# is a over or maxing out the capabilities of a lot of the smaller tractor's FELs. What are you lifting that is 1k?

I don't expect to go over 1000lbs, I just know some logs I've worked with in the past were several hundred pounds. Just want to make sure I have the ability to lift something that could be close to that weight.


Thanks for the additional advice! I'll create a list to keep notes on all the different tractors I try out.

 

[daugen]

Dave, tree trunks are a lot heavier than you might imagine, particularly when your new tractor makes you think you can do anything.
If budget were not an overriding issue, I'd go CUT instead of SCUT because of the loader strength and overall weight. They aren't that much more expensive...
That makes maneuvering for mowing a little more challenging but you can always go buy a used zero turn mower. Trying to make one machine do everything well is problematic. Usually tractors do the mowing least well, though my Land Pride finishing mower on the back of my CUT really does a nice job.

I bring up the issue of loader strength because I am disappointed with my L Kubota's ability to pick up a full bucket of dirt or stone. I should have gotten an M.
So in Kubota terms, yes you might get by with a B, but maybe you need an L...perhaps a larger frame tractor with the entry level hp. Three point hitch capability usually exceeds anything you might want to pick up back there so it's FEL lift capacity I suggest you compare among models.
And whatever you do, make sure you are properly ballasted. The first time your rear wheels go off the ground, you will become a believer...

There are so many good brands, and I believe all you will likely see are made in Japan or South Korea or India. And then rebadged to various companies.
Which means your local dealer is super important unless you are seriously mechanically minded. I bought a Kubota over a JD, which I actually liked more, because the Kubota dealer was simply outstanding and the JD dealer was awful and going through major changes. Never regretted the decision to choose based on dealership.

John Deere, Kubota, New Holland, Massey Ferguson, Kioti, Mahindra, LS and more. I'd take the closest two dealers out of this list and go spend some quality time there.

 

[jeff9366]

I guessed this soggy Water Oak trunk weighed 1,400 pounds.

My tractor-loader weighs 5,500 pounds.

Had I not had 600 pounds ballast cantilevered on the Three Point Hitch, the tractor might have teeter-tottered on the small, narrow, front wheels, lifting both rear wheels in the air, with the possibility of a rollover.

Be very careful when you begin operating.

 

[JFoy]

I'll throw my two-cents in as I'm a new owner of a Kubota BX25D. It comes with the Front End Loader (FEL), Mid-Mount Mower (MMM), and Backhoe (BH). As I will be mowing 90% of the time I use the tractor, I opted for the MMM. Course, as soon as I got the tractor, I immediately started finding all kinds of uses for the FEL and forks. To that, I suggest a 'quick attach' to swap between these. You can also get a 'quick hitch' for the 3point end, but if you do, make sure all your implements are sized for it (the width of the connecting points is fixed on the quick hitch) - very important. As for the lifting capacity, with the forks on it, I can lift around 400lbs - which was a bit of a disappointment to me. So, lesson one for me is to pay attention to the lifting capacity of both ends. If you can afford it, get a size bigger than you anticipate using.

Lesson two is that you will spend money after purchase on supplies, add-ons, etc. soon after you buy your tractor. Figure at least a $1000 but more like $2000.

Lesson three is that if you have the cash, have a shopping list of implements, but no urgency on buying them, consider craigslist to find them used and save a lot. I financed many of my implements with my initial purchase at full retail and then realized this fact afterwards. Granted, some implements are specific to your model, e.g. MMM, FEL, BH, but the 3point implements are often commonly found on craigslist. That, or 3rd party companies like Everything Attachments, Tractor Supply, etc.

Lesson four is weight. The entry level Sub Compact Utility Tractors (SCUTs) typically weight less than 2000lbs. That's great if you're working in your yard on a regular basis due to tearing up the grass with the tires and driving over septic tanks. The light weight will work against you if you're planning on dragging heavy stuff like full length trees, plowing a garden, etc.

Lesson five is as several have mentioned - a dealer with whom you feel comfortable. I knew in advance that I knew little about modern day tractors as I grew up on a FarmAll tractor which is very different in many ways. So, having a dealer who would take the time to explain things to me was important. Check their BBB credit rating. For some dealers, $20,000 to $30,000 is chump-change (hardly worth their time) - you'd be surprised. Further, some dealers do not stock tractors or parts and have to order everything. Ask their mechanics a few questions to get a feel for their competence. When I was shopping, the dealer I liked initially had no inventory, said it would take at least three weeks to get my tractor to his lot, and his mechanic couldn't answer questions about whether or not I could use the MMM if the BH was attached at the same time due to the BH sub-frame getting in the way. I walked away from him.

Lesson six is also as several have mentioned - how you feel sitting on the seat of the tractor and operating it. You're the one spending your time in the seat, getting on and off it, changing the implements, etc. There are different pedal designs and sizes. Some models got knobs and levers sticking out all over the place and while easier to use when in the seat, makes it harder to get on and off the tractor. If you're hefty sized, this can be an issue as you'll bang into levers trying to get in and out of the seat. Since I have the MMM, it has the grass deflector that sticks out. And since it is in the way of getting on and off the tractor, I specifically get on and off the tractor from the left side.

Lesson seven - sorting wheat from chaff in the sales pitch. Youtube is full of great videos and I encourage you to research some models there. But what you'll also see are videos where dealers and manufacturers compare their models versus a competitors. Pay attention to what is really important. Is that 'drive over deck' for the MMM really that big of a deal? Maybe - depends on you. Does it really matter if you can pick up the front end of you tractor with the loader at low RPMs? Is a 12volt car power supply really a selling point? Stamped versus fabricated decks? Blah, blah, blah? Some of these things may matter to you but many will not. It all depends on how long you'll be in the seat on any given day. A guy who puts in 10 hours a week on his tractor may want the fancy suspension seat. If you're using it two hours a week, spend the money on something else. What's first and foremost important is the WORK part of the tractor. Then consider luxuries and upgrades. So, beware of the dog and pony show stuff.

Lesson eight - spreadsheets or comparison lists. If you want to build a comparison list of all the units you're considering, that's great. There are several Excel spreadsheets on this website already. This is INITIAL research. List all the models mentioned to you, look at their stats (manufacturer websites don't always use the same ratings, e.g. lift capacity of the 3point or FEL at different distances from the tractor or ground), and get it down to 3 to 5 models - all of which meet your technical needs. Then throw the list away and go look at those specific models. Resist the temptation to buy one model over another over 100lbs of lifting ability. 500lbs, sure. But not 100lbs.


And finally, lesson nine - keep researching and learning before you buy. The TractorByNet (TBN) forums are loaded with info. Youtube has tons of videos.

Well, that was more than two-cents and it may be a lot to consider, but these are the lessons I learned. Some I knew before I bought. Others, I wish I'd known before I bought. Hope it helps.

 

[daugen]

great job JFoy. Worth at list a nickle. A gold nickle...

 

[Gary Fowler]

JFOY is right about the lift capacity on the SCUT tractors. Mahindra with their Max 25 or 28 likely have the highest lift capacity but there is some argument about them being a true SCUT as they actually fit in between a SCUT and a CUT. If you are going to be attempting to lift 1000 pounds with the FEL, you are going to need a tractor a bit larger than a SCUT in any brand. Remember that the lift capacity rating sometime varies depending on where it is specified (at the pins, 24" in front of the pins etc). So when comparing, look for apples to apples comparison.

Also remember that the stated lift capacity must be reduced to accommodate whatever is attached to the FEL be it bucket or lifting forks, that weight has to be subtracted to give true lifting capacity. As one member stated about his Kubota B25D, 400 pounds is the net lifting capacity which isn't really a lot of tree to get to that point.

Every brand will have strong points and weak points, so keep looking till you find the one that fits your needs with minimal weak points. The perfect tractor for you is out there, you just have to find it.

PS Don't forget to look at the LS Mtron brand of tractors. I think they still have the best bang for the buck and the quality will rival any brand name mentioned. Unlike most folks here that rail about the dealer, I don't worry so much about the dealer as the deal. I rarely take my tractors back to the dealer. In 450 hours with my Kubota RTV 900 and my B26 TLB, neither has been back to the dealer for repair as none has been needed in the almost 6 years I have owned them. My LS went back one time to retrofit a seat support and drawbar attachment which I could have done easily myself and the only reason I took it back was to have the dealer give it a once over due to bumper to bumper warranty about to expire. Nothing was found to be needy.
Of course I would not buy from an uppity dealer who seemed to care nothing for my business, but he would have to a real snob if the deal was best in town for me to turn it down. As I said the best dealer service in town is really not worth a dime if you don't ever need it.

If you are the type that has to have the dealer change your engine oil, then you might put a high value on a great service dept from the dealer, but most tractor owners should try to do most of the work themselves. It instills a bit of pride of ownership to be able to take care of your machine and thus have it take good care of you.

 

[AxleHub]

I don't expect to go over 1000lbs, I just know some logs I've worked with in the past were several hundred pounds. Just want to make sure I have the ability to lift something that could be close to that weight.

Dave, rather than tellnyou how wonderful my Massey scut is . . Let me also add a few items no one has yet addressed.

A. I wouldn't get clamp on forks . . I'd get a set of forks that can be used on a fel without the bucket . . you'll eliminate 150 lbs of bucket and logs will be closer to the fel pins for better lifting.

B. If that same set of forks can ALSO be used on the 3 pt you gain an advanrage. The fel in my gc1715 is ratedvat 870 lbs to full height while thev3 pt is rated at 1194 pounds of lift. And if you don't need full height lifting on the fel . . The number also goes uo. My point is . . Logs for sawing and woodworking should be dragged as little as possible and a scut can do a fair amount if you're smart and safe.

C. You mentioned lawn and slopes. That means turf tires and scut in my mind. I have steep slopes and 1 of my lawns is just a gair larger than yours. I have no issues with tearing or ripping sod or making permanent depressions in my lawn. I tested several brands on slopes . . and there is a difference in how well different brands handle it.

D. I'll sound different than many. My theme is ever the same:

1. Find the brand and models that really fit your desires. Don't hurry the awareness of differences in units . . study them.
2. Then find a good dealer that sells that brand at a fair price.
3. Finally, worry much less about distance to a desler and focus more on the right product and then how many dealers sell the right product in a 150 mile radius. You want dealer choices if yours sells out or burns down. And recognize you'll spend more time on your tractor than you will at your dealer. And better brands have NATIONAL warranties and long warranties.


E. Look for brands with special advantages. An example is forward flow engine cooling. Kubota BX, Massey GC1700 series and 1 orv2 others blow the air forward instead of pulling it from the front of the engine compartment . . keeps the engine atea cleaner, keeps dust off the operator, keeps hot air off the operator.

F. You have some mud and slopes . . A differential lock is a benefit and about half of the scuts have it.

G. Facts are fine but employ wisdom. Implements that are designed specifically for scuts are lighter in weight but should be equal in strength (if you get the right ones). That means research 3rd party vendors of scut specifuc implements . . . there are several or more. The proper forks or grapples or hitches make a scut mych more efficient than just standard implements.

H. An easy item to overlook tgat can be a big benefit when starting and building a good lawn is a 3pt. Sprayer. They are around $350 or less for a 40 gallon model . . But really allow you to reach areas that regular pump sprayets don't and with much faster speed and distance.

 

[AxleHub]

Dave,

I especially agree with a comment Gary Fowler mafe about doing some of your own fluid changes and minir servicing. You don't need to "be a wrench" in order to be involved. My dealer is 115 miles away from me and they are wondeful. They have 20+ service tevhs plus supervisory. I also have a couple other Massey dealers in the 75 range as backups. But in my first year and 1st 80 hours of use I didn't need them for anything but input and an open house where I bought some filters and fluids.. I got a good price and have fine servicing dealer if needed. But I want to know how my fluids llok when they are changed. I want to be able to check all my fluid levels and filters myself as wrll sd save a few hundred dollars in the process.

You don't have to be "a wrench" to do some of your own work and maintain your warrantu requirements.

Good point Gary.

 

[teg]

You have two different "needs"... Is this going to be used at home or business? I know you are trying to still figure this out... Lots of great information already given. Let me add that I've been surprised at what I can pick up...
View attachment 462729View attachment 462732

I thought I had photos of the large rocks but I don't have them here.

...I am disappointed with my L Kubota's ability to pick up a full bucket of dirt or stone...

Have you checked your pressure? My little L can carry full loads of gravel and dirt...