Which is Best to Reseed Grass Field??

[wjb-49]

Hello,

I need to reseed some hay fields that were originally seeded about four years ago and need some opinions on the best procedure. These were newly cultivated fields in which we did not get a good stand of fescue.

My first thought was to go over them with a disc harrow to loosen the soil and then cut the new seed in with a cultipacker. That occurred to me first because I have the equipment needed. Some in my community with more experience than I have suggested that I rent a sure stand grass seeder and simply use that with no other preparation. I have also considered starting somewhat from scratch and buy a rotary tiller to use on my Ford 4610 (maybe a Terra Force WJR Series or Sicma T-15, don't know which is best) to cut in the weeds.

Any thoughts on which way is the best?

Thanks.

 

[DT86]

I'd say no to the tiller.

How many acres?

 

[RPW]

I was also about not using the tiller. I'd do with a seed drill. If you could do it just before a rain.

 

[wjb-49]

15 - 20 acres.

 

[DT86]

I'd no-till drill it also. You will save not only time and fuel but also retain more soil moisture and reduce the chance of erosion.

First though, pull a soil sample and try to understand why the previous seed didn't take.

Is this for pasture or other use?

 

[DJ54]

Check with your County Extension Agent. Many have no-till drills you can rent, for so much an acre, and it's pretty reasonable. Bad thing is, you'll have to wait your turn to use it.

Another option is, rent a slit seeder. Most aren't that wide, but are designed to work at 6-8 mph. so you can cover some ground quick. Here, smaller ones rent for $175.00 per day, rather than acres.

 

[smstonypoint]

Another endorsement for soil testing.

Here's some information on the Truax FlexII-88 No-Till Grass Drill that you can rent from the Stokes Soil and Water Conservation District: http://www.stokesswcd.org/pdfs/Newsletter%20Fall-08.pdf.

IMO, you would increase your chances of getting a good fescue stand if you wait until the fall to seed.

Steve

 

[Wakey]

Another endorsement for soil testing. Here's some information on the Truax FlexII-88 No-Till Grass Drill that you can rent from the Stokes Soil and Water Conservation District: http://www.stokesswcd.org/pdfs/Newsletter%20Fall-08.pdf. IMO, you would increase your chances of getting a good fescue stand if you wait until the fall to seed. Steve

I just Googled my county with seed drill and bingo!

Thanks. The amount of seed I won't be wasting will likely pay the rent charges for the drill.

 

[jenkinsph]

Another endorsement for soil testing.

Here's some information on the Truax FlexII-88 No-Till Grass Drill that you can rent from the Stokes Soil and Water Conservation District: http://www.stokesswcd.org/pdfs/Newsletter%20Fall-08.pdf.

IMO, you would increase your chances of getting a good fescue stand if you wait until the fall to seed.

Steve

I agree^^^
Drill the seed in the fall for best results.

 

[wjb-49]

I am aware that our County Extension Office has a no-till grass drill and that using it would probably be the easiest way to go. However, I don't see that it would solve the problem of eliminating the weeds that set up shop in these fields when I didn't have a good stand of fescue. Pre - spraying with a herbicide is not a ready option because I do not have a boom spray. Also, I am planning for fall planting. My original failure to attain a good stand taught me to be patient and wait until fall.

-Barry

 

[mjw357]

I am aware that our County Extension Office has a no-till grass drill and that using it would probably be the easiest way to go. However, I don't see that it would solve the problem of eliminating the weeds that set up shop in these fields when I didn't have a good stand of fescue. Pre - spraying with a herbicide is not a ready option because I do not have a boom spray. Also, I am planning for fall planting.

If you have winter annuals (weeds) you need to get them under control now, or they'll just be back stronger next year. Till or have it sprayed.

 

[smstonypoint]

Do you have a Southern States Commercial Ag. facility nearby? They offer custom spraying services. You could also check with your County Extension office -- they may know of local farmers who do custom spraying.

Steve

 

[jenkinsph]

If you have a weed problem then consider tilling and broadcast the seed heavy. If you have enough rain in the fall and winter the fescue should root well enough to choke out the weeds.

Most weeds are not coming back after late September , hopefully by next spring you should have enough grass roots to make it more difficult for the weeds. I would use a root stimulator the first year too.

The first time I planted my lawn in April-May I got a total crop of weeds with very little grass. A friend of mine with NRCS said to let them grow and till them under at the end of August. I did that and replanted and got a weed free stand of Fescue over the winter.

 

[wjb-49]

If you have a weed problem then consider tilling and broadcast the seed heavy. If you have enough rain in the fall and winter the fescue should root well enough to choke out the weeds.

Most weeds are not coming back after late September , hopefully by next spring you should have enough grass roots to make it more difficult for the weeds. I would use a root stimulator the first year too.

The first time I planted my lawn in April-May I got a total crop of weeds with very little grass. A friend of mine with NRCS said to let them grow and till them under at the end of August. I did that and replanted and got a weed free stand of Fescue over the winter.

This goes back to my original post regarding using a rotary cultivator on the weeds. Cultivate, broadcast seed\fertilizer and cultipack.

 

[jenkinsph]

This goes back to my original post regarding using a rotary cultivator on the weeds. Cultivate, broadcast seed\fertilizer and cultipack.

That is what I do for most pastures in my locale (New Mexico) and this is for irrigated fields. I see your area has a fairly even rainfall year round. You should be good to go with 3.5 inches of rain per month thru the winter.

 

[wjb-49]

If you have a weed problem then consider tilling and broadcast the seed heavy. If you have enough rain in the fall and winter the fescue should root well enough to choke out the weeds.

Most weeds are not coming back after late September , hopefully by next spring you should have enough grass roots to make it more difficult for the weeds. I would use a root stimulator the first year too.

The first time I planted my lawn in April-May I got a total crop of weeds with very little grass. A friend of mine with NRCS said to let them grow and till them under at the end of August. I did that and replanted and got a weed free stand of Fescue over the winter.

That is what I do for most pastures in my locale (New Mexico) and this is for irrigated fields. I see your area has a fairly even rainfall year round. You should be good to go with 3.5 inches of rain per month thru the winter.

After seeding, do you go over the field with a cultipacker? A rotary cultivator would be a large investment, but if this is what it takes for me to have a good stand of fescue, so be it. As I stated in my OP, I am now looking at either a Terra Force WJR Series or Sicma T-15. Any thoughts on which is better, or another brand? Thanks.

 

[jenkinsph]

After seeding, do you go over the field with a cultipacker? A rotary cultivator would be a large investment, but if this is what it takes for me to have a good stand of fescue, so be it. As I stated in my OP, I am now looking at either a Terra Force WJR Series or Sicma T-15. Any thoughts on which is better, or another brand? Thanks.

I use a roller but a cultipacker is on my wish list. I use a Deere 673 (73") tiller and like it but would also recommend a King Kutter II as they have a good following here and are a lot of bang for the buck. There are lots of good tillers and I would recommend the 6 tine per rotor models with the larger rotor diameters. With 40 pto hp you should be able to pull a tiller first pass about 1.2 to 1.4 mph and a second pass perpendicular at 1.7 to 2.0 mph. That should take about 2 hours/acre including both passes. So about 40 hours for the 20 acres you mention tilled about 6 inches or better. If you till less depth your time will be less.

Heres a few pictures of jobs I tilled and planted in the last year or so.

 

[wjb-49]

I use a roller but a cultipacker is on my wish list. I use a Deere 673 (73") tiller and like it but would also recommend a King Kutter II as they have a good following here and are a lot of bang for the buck. There are lots of good tillers and I would recommend the 6 tine per rotor models with the larger rotor diameters. With 40 pto hp you should be able to pull a tiller first pass about 1.2 to 1.4 mph and a second pass perpendicular at 1.7 to 2.0 mph. That should take about 2 hours/acre including both passes. So about 40 hours for the 20 acres you mention tilled about 6 inches or better. If you till less depth your time will be less.

The Ford 4610 has a rated 52 hp pto which is probably slightly less under real world conditions. Anyway, I should have sufficient hp for a 60 - 72 inch tiller. I certainly like the results you achieved with your tiller, my goal is results like yours. Having read several threads on TBN about rotary tillers, it seems that most use it for small garden areas or lawns. Am I missing something here? You are using your tiller for large areas with excellent results. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise.

 

[jenkinsph]

The Ford 4610 has a rated 52 hp pto which is probably slightly less under real world conditions. Anyway, I should have sufficient hp for a 60 - 72 inch tiller. I certainly like the results you achieved with your tiller, my goal is results like yours. Having read several threads on TBN about rotary tillers, it seems that most use it for small garden areas or lawns. Am I missing something here? You are using your tiller for large areas with excellent results. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise.

You should be able to handle an 80 to 84 inch tiller with your tractor and save a little time. I would have bought that size for my 4520 if I had known. I used a 40hp tractor for the example. In most conditions I can till at the same speeds I listed using the epto and reduced engine speed. With heavy sod I use the standard pto speed.

I prefer tillers for compact tractors in most cases because the pto is more efficient on hydro tractors than a constant hard pull. I also like the fact that tillers are more compact than discs and easier for me to transport. A tiller in one tool does a good job of getting the soil ready without a multitude of other implements. Good tillers and good wheeled discs are fairly comparable in costs. Both do a good job and I find there isn't much difference in total time per acre getting a good seedbed ready.

 

[jenkinsph]

The Ford 4610 has a rated 52 hp pto which is probably slightly less under real world conditions. Anyway, I should have sufficient hp for a 60 - 72 inch tiller. I certainly like the results you achieved with your tiller, my goal is results like yours. Having read several threads on TBN about rotary tillers, it seems that most use it for small garden areas or lawns. Am I missing something here? You are using your tiller for large areas with excellent results. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise.

You should be able to handle an 80 to 84 inch tiller with your tractor and save a little time. I would have bought that size for my 4520 if I had known. I used a 40hp tractor for the example. In most conditions I can till at the same speeds I listed using the epto and reduced engine speed. With heavy sod I use the standard pto speed.

I prefer tillers for compact tractors in most cases because the pto is more efficient on hydro tractors than a constant hard pull. I also like the fact that tillers are more compact than discs and easier for me to transport. A tiller in one tool does a good job of getting the soil ready without a multitude of other implements. Good tillers and good wheeled discs are fairly comparable in costs. Both do a good job and I find there isn't much difference in total time per acre getting a good seedbed ready.