Who uses dual tilt cylinders? I do...

[jmc]

So if you start out with the implement level and it is perfectly balanced and symmetrical. You try to tilt it to one side, one side needs to lower and one side needs to raise. The side being lowered will suck in fluid with little resistance while the other side needs to be pressured up to raise. What happens next?

After a few tries making small adjustments everything will be out of whack.

In my view, pushing the "low" side down also raises the "high" side up. You only need need pressure to one of the four fluid chambers for movement, as long as plumbing for the other three chambers prevent a hydraulic lock.

 

[DK35vince]

I rarely run my single side link (4" stroke) at half extension so it can tilt both ways.
I loose to much lift on my 3 point hitch for several of my attachments with the links adjusted that far down.
Dual hydraulic side links would be preferable to me.

 

[/pine]

Seems extreme to me (personal observation)...in the five years I have had a side link cylinder...I have never needed to use the manual (right side) link for greater pitch...

As much as I love my hydraulic top link...if I had to choose between one or the other I would take the side link...when grading (box blade, scrape blade, rake etc.,etc...) I am constantly changing the side link pitch...not so much the TL (aggressiveness)...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I rarely run my single side link (4" stroke) at half extension so it can tilt both ways.
I loose to much lift on my 3 point hitch for several of my attachments with the links adjusted that far down.
Dual hydraulic side links would be preferable to me.

Vince, it may very well be that your side link is actually built to be fully retracted to be level. Many units are built to be run in that manor.

I build my hydraulic side links to mimic the factory stationary links at mid stroke.

So you have your manual adjustable unit on one side and the hydraulic on the other side and have the manual link adjusted up?

Again, if the unit is built to mimic the factory stationary link, you would be loosing no height to have the cylinder at mid stroke to have the implement level.

 

[DK35vince]

Vince, it may very well be that your side link is actually built to be fully retracted to be level. Many units are built to be run in that manor.

So you have your manual adjustable unit on one side and the hydraulic on the other side and have the manual link adjusted up?

Yes, my side link is level at full up.

 

[jenkinsph]

In my view, pushing the "low" side down also raises the "high" side up. You only need need pressure to one of the four fluid chambers for movement, as long as plumbing for the other three chambers prevent a hydraulic lock.

There is no center pivot point and the fluid takes the path of least resistance, so the fluid flows to the cylinder that is lowering first. When the cylinder being lowered is fully extended then the opposite cylinder is raised. The problem comes when you want to make less than full tilt adjustments, you lower the cylinder on one side a few degrees and stop, the opposite cylinder never has a chance to raise.

When you use separate spool valves to control each cylinder you have full control of what happens.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

View attachment 463423
Yes, my side link is level at full up.

If it would have been built without that spacer at the top, then you would have the room to have it extended half way and be level. Then you would be able to tilt both directions and have an equal tilt angle to both sides. But as it is, it was designed to give you tilt to one side only.

Some manufactures build them in this fashion, I do not unless requested to do so.

 

[jenkinsph]

Steve, I understand what you are saying when working on an opposite slope, but again, the tractor will only cut X amount. Your JD side link has the implement level when fully retracted. How often do you use your side link fully extended and are actually taking advantage of that full amount of tilt angle?

Most of the time I set the right side (hydraulic) to the center of its stroke and adjust the left side to level the box blade. Last week I had to adjust the manual side several times in one day. Whenever I load the tractor and box blade on my trailer I have to take up all the slack to be able to load. So I guess I often have to make adjustments.

 

[npalen]

There is no center pivot point and the fluid takes the path of least resistance, so the fluid flows to the cylinder that is lowering first. When the cylinder being lowered is fully extended then the opposite cylinder is raised. The problem comes when you want to make less than full tilt adjustments, you lower the cylinder on one side a few degrees and stop, the opposite cylinder never has a chance to raise.

When you use separate spool valves to control each cylinder you have full control of what happens.

Does the "other cylinder" need to raise until you have used up the stroke in the first cylinder? It looks like for up to half of the total tilt there is no need for the "other cylinder" to move.
Edit: To clarify, I'm saying that there is no need for the two leveling cylinders to move in unison. They have to eventually move in opposite directions, however, because of the way they are plumbed. (rod port of one cylinder is connected to the base port of the other with a tee in between leading to the valve)

 

[jenkinsph]

Does the "other cylinder" need to raise until you have used up the stroke in the first cylinder? It looks like for up to half of the total tilt there is no need for the "other cylinder" to move.
Edit: To clarify, I'm saying that there is no need for the two leveling cylinders to move in unison. They have to eventually move in opposite directions, however, because of the way they are plumbed. (rod port of one cylinder is connected to the base port of the other with a tee in between leading to the valve)

The problem with this is when you go to raise the right side a little it does not move up, instead the left side goes down first to the bottom before the right side will raise. With fine grading this would give you fits.

A solution if you don't have an additional valve and outlets would be an electric actuated double selector valve where you could push a switch and select the left cylinder to adjust it where needed and lock in place. Then use the right hand cylinder for the tilt adjustments as normally done.