Help with adding weight.

[rbtjr]

Some thoughts: First, we have R4 tires on our Kubota L3800. On the L3800, the rims for R4 tires do not allow for adjustments to spread out the rear wheels. We added 4" after-market spacers on both rear wheels and it made a big difference in stability. Second, we have the water and antifreeze in the rear tires, like we did with predecessor tractors. That was something like 650 lbs total, and it also helps a lot. (I have read about Rimguard a good bit, and if in fact it would allow us to put much more weight inside the rear tires, I will have Rimguard installed.) Third, we always keep some kind of ballast on the 3PH. There are numerous links on TBN about ballast. When we are not using another attachment, we use for ballast on the 3PH our heaviest attachment--the Bush Hog pulverizer at 590 lbs--and add to it five 36 lb weights in the tray on top of the pulverizer. The ballast on the 3PH also helps a lot. But of all of these things we do, by far the most beneficial is spreading out the rear wheels.

 

[motownbrowne]

I need to look at prices of maple syrup now.

Due to the Canadian exchange rate, maple syrup bulk prices are way down. For the cheapest grade (commercial) I think packers are currently paying somewhere around $1.00-$1.25 per pound. Not too far from the cost of steel weights, I guess.

 

[aTexasYankee]

Well I mentioned the fuel because it's true but not a big concern. Some members on here are over the top on concerns so I brought it up for covering my bases.

About the 220lbs/wheel. That is cast weight per wheel and not liquid ballast. My much larger tractor is only allowed 190lbs of steel weight per wheel but I'd be comfortable going to atleast double that. The big benefit to liquid is the weight is directly on the ground and not on the axles.

Appreciate it. Is there risk of other damage (transmission, brakes, axle, etc.) by loading tires up?

Some thoughts: First, we have R4 tires on our Kubota L3800. On the L3800, the rims for R4 tires do not allow for adjustments to spread out the rear wheels. We added 4" after-market spacers on both rear wheels and it made a big difference in stability. Second, we have the water and antifreeze in the rear tires, like we did with predecessor tractors. That was something like 650 lbs total, and it also helps a lot. (I have read about Rimguard a good bit, and if in fact it would allow us to put much more weight inside the rear tires, I will have Rimguard installed.) Third, we always keep some kind of ballast on the 3PH. There are numerous links on TBN about ballast. When we are not using another attachment, we use for ballast on the 3PH our heaviest attachment--the Bush Hog pulverizer at 590 lbs--and add to it five 36 lb weights in the tray on top of the pulverizer. The ballast on the 3PH also helps a lot. But of all of these things we do, by far the most beneficial is spreading out the rear wheels.

After market spacers... Hmm. Is there a negative to doing this?

Due to the Canadian exchange rate, maple syrup bulk prices are way down. For the cheapest grade (commercial) I think packers are currently paying somewhere around $1.00-$1.25 per pound. Not too far from the cost of steel weights, I guess.

I used to make maple syrup when I was in CT and had maple trees. I could drink the stuff. Here in Texas I ask for maple syrup at a restaurant and I get Aunt Jemima or the premium Log Cabin

 

[SPYDERLK]

In Texas you have the opportunity to use water for ballast. Fill or drain according to task. ~ Free. Leaks no problem. Etc.

 

[aTexasYankee]

In Texas you have the opportunity to use water for ballast. Fill or drain according to task. ~ Free. Leaks no problem. Etc.

It does get below freezing here during winter, wouldn't I have to worry about that? And do I not have to worry about rust? This is new to me.

 

[SPYDERLK]

It does get below freezing here during winter, wouldn't I have to worry about that? And do I not have to worry about rust? This is new to me.

I use water in my 7520 here in Virginia. Theres not any trouble til Jan when the day/nite average tends to get below freezing. It takes a lot to freeze the tires much and if I can get them to crackle when I push on the side walls theres no problem. I would think your conditions are warmer and yould never get more than a thin skin of ice. Rust is no problem as rims are always painted inside. At 10yrs I saw no rust when I had a flat fixed.

 

[fried1765]

Extra weight makes the tractor more useful IMO. The mowing and the mud are the only downsides I see to adding weight. lb for lb liquid in the tires of your choice is the cheapest way to add ballast. Wheel weights are nice because they can be added or removed depending on your needs but they run about 1$/lb. Your owners manual should have a chart that says what an appropriate amount of ballast for your machine should be. This is not a hard and fast rule but more of a guideline. Also, look and see if you can adjust the track width of your rear tires. That alone will add alot to the stability of your machine.


Steel weights-bolt to the hub 1$/lb as a rule of thumb
Weight on the drawbar is not a good idea because you can't use it then. It may interfere with your hitch.
Filling tires is the most economical and can be free if you use water to whatever the local guys charge for rimguard/beet juice. Rimguard is brought up because its the heaviest liquid/lb that is environmentally friendly that you can put in your tires. Water is around 8.3lb/gal and rimguard is around 13lb/gal. This doesn't sound like much but for 100gal, you could have 830 lb or you could have 1300lb. What you choose is up to you and your climate. If you decide to use water ,most antifreeze additives lower the lb/gal except salt adds.

Water/rv antifreeze is DIY if you have some hand tools, rimguard can be but dealers would do this. installation cost is not that much.

Theoretically there is a fuel penalty for adding weight to the machine. However, the increase in weight will give you more traction (Normal force x static friction) and should be able to produce more work done per unit time. So its a net benefit.

(Rimguard) "installation cost is not that much".
OH ??? Really??? Must be that depends on where you live.
Nearest dealer charges $75 per tire (13.6 x 24), and $3.25 per gallon, and I would have to drive 170 miles round trip to the dealer.
Rimguard =38 gal. x 2 tires = 76 gal. x $3.25/gal. + tax = $262.44 + $150 charge to fill 2 tires = $412.44 + the cost for me to drive 170 miles.
Too rich for my blood!
I used -20F WWF
I bought 80 gal. = $120 incl tax.
$10 fitting from TSC to install.

RV antifreeze (Polypropylene Glycol) is NOT cost effective!
Automotive antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol) is sweet, and ATTRACTS animals to their death.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

(Rimguard) "installation cost is not that much".
OH ??? Really??? Must be that depends on where you live.
Nearest dealer charges $75 per tire (13.6 x 24), and $3.25 per gallon, and I would have to drive 170 miles round trip to the dealer.
Rimguard =38 gal. x 2 tires = 76 gal. x $3.25/gal. + tax = $262.44 + $150 charge to fill 2 tires = $412.44 + the cost for me to drive 170 miles.
Too rich for my blood!
I used -20F WWF
I bought 80 gal. = $120 incl tax.
$10 fitting from TSC to install.

RV antifreeze (Polypropylene Glycol) is NOT cost effective!
Automotive antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol) is sweet, and ATTRACTS animals to their death.

The cost is not that much when you compare it to $1/lb min. or more for cast weights. To get the same weight as a gallon of rimguard you would spend at least $11 for the steel. (rimguard weighs around 11-12lb/gal) Looks a little better now doesn't it? I had the dealer load the tires when I bought the tractor so it wasn't a big deal. There is nothing wrong with WWF except that its alot lighter than the rimguard is. I wanted as much weight as possible in the tires and its still not enough with the front end loader even after I added cast weights. I have to run a counterweight if I want to use the full capacity of the loader.

As for the antifreeze, you don't fill the whole tire with it, that would be silly. You only add enough to keep the water from freezing.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Appreciate it. Is there risk of other damage (transmission, brakes, axle, etc.) by loading tires up?
....

Minimal. Some people get their shorts in a wad over loading the front tires or chaining just the front tires. Use your head, take things slow, and enjoy the greater utility of your machine.

 

[bdog]

Every tractor I have had the tires were fluid filled and I never had any problems due to it. The only downsides I can think of is if you get a flat it makes a mess and harder to fix. Also moving around loaded tires is hard to do. If you have to take them off for some reason and they fall on you it would be bad news.