Grading Box Blade On a Hill

[s219]

When going forward, the box blade rear cutter is meant for feathering/smoothing, depending on how you have the top link adjusted. I have to strongly echo the caution that the box blade is intended for use going forward. The whole purpose of the box is to fill up with material, to remove from high spots and deposit in low spots. That process really only works when going forward. On top of that, the 3-pt lower arms and top link are designed for pulling, not pushing. There are plenty of threads here on TBN by unfortunate souls who discover that the hard way, though it should be obvious in my opinion.

All that said, I use my box blade in reverse sometimes -- with proper adjustment of the top link -- to smooth or move loose material. It should not be angled so that it is digging in reverse, and it should not be used to bulldoze in compacted soil, or something will break. Neither the box blade or 3-pt is made for that.

So basically, in forward, do whatever you want. The tractor will run out of traction or power before something breaks. In reverse, use it with care on loose soil. In reverse, mechanical parts will break before the tractor runs out of steam.

As far as box blades being used in reverse in videos, well, I can link you to a lot of dumb tractor usages shown on video. Doesn't make any of it right or universal. Any tractor expert worth his salt should know that the 3-pt is much weaker pushing in reverse than pulling forward. Use that expertise to decide how much rear pushing is safe. It's not a black/white issue -- it takes judgement and experience.

 

[TripleR]

I pull in both directions on our hills, I my not be able to move as much material in some instances, but I usually don't need to move a lare amount. I have a hydraulic top-link which make using my box scraper easier for everything.

As others, I push and pull with mine as well, but am mindful of the force pushing vs pulling and I've never bent any arms on our tractors. Done incorrectly you will bend arms and some have broken mounting points on their 3PH.

 

[oosik]

I have a roll over box blade. I use it in both directions. I'll dig deep & pull hard going forward. I'll push, in reverse, to flatten & smooth already dug dirt or to push small piles to smooth. I will NEVER push something hard or dig in reverse. It simply isn't worth it to find out what might happen.

 

[sw99]

If you get the opportunity, you should find an area where you can practice a bit. A BB can get you in trouble fast.

 

[TripleR]

Don't know if this is relative to your situation, but may be worth reading: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/214590-how-use-box-blade.html

 

[jeff9366]

If you have RIGID STABILIZERS for your Lower Links you can push "a little" with prudence, as snug adjusted, rigid stabilizers provide some Lower Link support in reverse.

With CHECK CHAIN STABILIZERS for your Lower Links you have zero support for your Lower Links in reverse. PUSHING you can deform check chain stabilizers easily. You can surely guess how I found out.
Photo #3 - Bent, three-pound Check Chain Stabilizers replaced with fourteen-pound Rigid Stabilizers; Kubota B3300SU.





When pulling down hill with a Box Blade this 3-Pt. adjustment may be helpful:

The solution is to move the adjustment pins for the Three Point Hitch right and left Lifting Rod stirrups, which attach to the Lower Links, from the TOP hole to the LOWER hole. This will allow your Box Blade to drop down 3" to 4". Then play with Top Link length.

Removing pins is easy with implement off. Grease pins lightly. I use anti-seize compound but any grease is fine.

This pin adjustment is useful when using a Box Blade, Landscape Rake, Rear Blade and/or Turf Thatch Remover.



Kubota L3560 photos:

#1 Standard position for Lower Link, stirrup pin in UPPER adjustment hole. Note Lower Link angle.

#2 Optional position for Lower Link, stirrup pin in LOWER adjustment hole. Note Lower Link drop.

 

[TheMadOne]

This is all excellent info, thank you!

 

[mfl_jr]

This is all excellent info, thank you!

One thing that has worked well for me is to never push with a box blade in 4wd.

It has been my experience that if you push in 2wd then you really shouldn't have any problem, the tires should spin before you can break/bend anything.

Of course, YMMV...

Thanks,
Mike

 

[John_Mc]

When pulling down hill with a Box Blade this 3-Pt. adjustment may be helpful:

The solution is to move the adjustment pins for the Three Point Hitch right and left Lifting Rod stirrups, which attach to the Lower Links, from the TOP hole to the LOWER hole. This will allow your Box Blade to drop down 3" to 4". Then play with Top Link length.

Removing pins is easy with implement off. Grease pins lightly. I use anti-seize compound but any grease is fine.

This pin adjustment is useful when using a Box Blade, Landscape Rake, Rear Blade and/or Turf Thatch Remover.

Jeff9366 - I understand what you are saying, but I'm not sure why that makes any difference. If I'm pulling downhill, the tractor and the 3 pt hitch are tilted down the hill right along with my box blade. The geometry of all of this relative to the ground still remains the same. The only time I could see this making a difference is that brief distance when the tractor transitions from level to down hill, but the boxblade is still back on the level ground. I guess it's possible that the boxblade might not lower enough to engage the ground until both the tractor and the implement were on the downhill slope (though I've never experienced this problem myself: my box blade still seems to have plenty of downward range of motion).

Am I missing something in what you are describing?

 

[jeff9366]

Jeff9366 - I understand what you are saying, but I'm not sure why that makes any difference. If I'm pulling downhill, the tractor and the 3 pt hitch are tilted down the hill right along with my box blade. The geometry of all of this relative to the ground still remains the same.
Am I missing something in what you are describing?

Not it does not. The cutting edge of the Box Blade will be 3" to 4" lower, that is why there are two stirrup holes.

It is easier to try it than to type about it. Give it a go.