Want To Buy: T1 Steel For Box Blade Points

[Gary Fowler]

AR 400 is what most folks use for high power rifle targets. It is very hard so I think it may work for you. Your welder will need something in the line of a Low Hydrogen 11018 rod to weld it or a nickel based rod.

 

[LD1]

I mentioned the ar400 back in post 5. Probably the best that mcmaster carr offers for your needs that I saw

 

[jeff9366]

GF, LD1 ---- Thank you.

 

[jeff9366]

I e-mailed the two supplier references to Mark Powell, a purchasing agent at Agri Supply. Hopefully he will follow through and 2" X 3/8" abrasion resistant steel strips will be available as a "part" from Agri Supply.

 

[DT86]

What troubles do the replacement points give?

 

[jeff9366]

The ground contact strip, 1/4" thick, snaps off. This on complete replacement tine/shoe/point assembly from Agri Supply. I had to replace assembly when 1/5 originals was lost in the woods because I neglected to checked the bolt(s) for tightness. The other four Bush Hog (brand) OEM rippers are holding up fine.

Agri supply used to purchase Box Blade points from Italy. Now they are cheaper from somewhere else. I have a pretty good idea where. Welds on current stuff do not inspire confidence, I have no idea how hard the steel is but I am skeptical. I failed twice in ordering order a point with correct size 'shoe'.

I hate down time. I have spent too much time fooling with this repair.

 

[PILOON]

Could you use pieces of old leaf springs? New T1 is probably expensive.

A truck spring shop would be the natural source IMO.
Also the material could be as thick as 1/2" and up to 4" wide.
They typically should sell U odd lengths slightly above scrap prices.

They (for fee) probably would shear to size.

I once bought small bits to make my metal shear blades at ridiculous prices.
\Real tough material. I guess somewhere near T1.

 

[jeff9366]

I dislike asking a professional welder to use scrap material on a recurring basis.

While the material might be very cheap, cutting and prepping a rusty, dirty, leaf spring at the welding shop will involve additional labor.

I would rather pay more for new stock, known as abrasion resistant, only one cut necessary from a strip, then ready to weld.

Time is money for the welder. Time is money for me.

I hate down time.

 

[jwmorris]

You can stick weld with hard face rod and go forever. If you don't weld the following might be a better bet.

Important to note the teeth in that thread are installed upside down, you want the surface facing the direction you are cutting, like this but the method is correct.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/148243-how-attach-ripper-teeth.html

Agmate(R) Ripper Point For Box Blade Shank | Agri Supply, 89348

Agmate(R) Box Blade Ripper Shank, Box Blade Parts | Agri Supply, 1453

Gannon Box Ripper Teeth

 

[jeff9366]

The 'shoe' on that point does not have much contact with the tine. I would not bet on the point's longevity.