Tractor Sizing Have a half mile of gravel road to repair and maintain

[Ivan49]

Been reading thru all the posts and I have to ask, have you ever run a tractor before. I don't mean this as a bad thing but it would help in suggesting what would work for you. You got some very good advice on here so far. I use to maintain my driveway that was a 1/4 mile long and it had washouts and washboard in it. I started out using a JD model A trac and backblade. Then I bought a JD 50 trac and stilled used the backblade . Have you considered a farm tractor such as an 8N form or Ford 2000 ot 3000. The later 2 would fit what you want to do. Then buy a box blade. You will have the HP you are looking for and be well under our budget. Save the rest and then upgrade when you get enough money saved up. I don't know what the tractor market is in your area but here in Mich I could get a Ford 3000 for in the $2000 to $3000 range.

 

[newby in tenn]

have you ever run a tractor before. I started out using a JD model A trac and backblade. Then I bought a JD 50 trac and stilled used the backblade . Have you considered a farm tractor such as an 8N form or Ford 2000 ot 3000. The later 2 would fit what you want to do. Then buy a box blade. I don't know what the tractor market is in your area but here in Mich I could get a Ford 3000 for in the $2000 to $3000 range.

I am a newby that has never operated a tractor. But all the knowledge and experience that you guys on this site have shared have given me a lot of confidence. Thanks to all. Are the John Deeres that you mention the ones that have the back to back front tires. I am afraid I would flip the tractor when working on the ruts. The 8N and 9N seem a little old. I looked at a 60hp Allis Chalmers (6060) and it could certainly do the job, but to a newby it was BIG. And once I get the driveway in shape, big will not be something I think I will need. My shopping list now reads 25-30, maybe 40 hp with loader then a box blade and grader blade. Then a bushhog would be nice in the future. Around here the Ford 2000 and 3000s seem to run 5-6k and that most often is without a loader. This is based on what I see on craigslist. Haven't begun to talk to dealers yet. I am open to whatever shows up in the market. Hoping for a little divine provision.

 

[dragoneggs]

Coincidently, we maintained our 1000ft shared driveway with lots of slope just today! Here are the two rigs used. Graded, then spread two trucks of 5/8in crushed, graded it again, watered it down, and vibration-rolled. It's been two years since heavy scraping. I scrape every quarter with my little BX 72in Rankin with back blade (little too big but weight is nice). Now we are looking at applying some liquid magnesium chloride... but that is a subject for another thread.



I still say hire the major job out so it is done right then buy a smaller tractor that is economical and does a variety of modest jobs around the house/property. Add implements as you go.

 

[newby in tenn]

Coincidently, we maintained our 1000ft shared driveway iu

I still say hire the major job out so it is done right then buy a smaller tractor that is economical and does a variety of modest jobs around the house/property. Add implements as you go.

Looks like you have a commercial grade operation. If I can get a 30-40 hp tractor I might try to do the repairs and if I have to call somebody else in, I am still at the same place financially. Thanks for your expertise and experience and suggestions. Made me thnk things through more thoroughly.gt

 

[CurlyDave]

A couple of questions.

How much traffic does this road see? You said it was part of a mobile home park. I suspect it sees a lot more traffic than most of us think about when we say "driveway".

Secondly, is this one straight road, or is it broken up into a lot of branches between the mobile homes?

* * * * *

I strongly suspect you will not be able to accomplish much within the budget you state, especially on a high traffic road.

And, you may need to buy some more gravel. I don't know if this is included in the budget or not, but 2600 feet of road, 10' wide x 2"deep of gravel is 160 cubic yards of gravel. Around here gravel is in the $15/ton range or about $21/yard. This would be over $3000 worth of gravel. Not to mention the delivery costs. And, you are not going to get that much gravel in the bed of your pickup.

 

[nickmags]

You said the ruts run across the road in run off areas. The only way to fix the problem of drainage across the road is to dig out the spot and install a culvert. Anything else, such as just filling the ruts with dirt or rock is just a temp. fix. Personally, I like to fix something one time, not create an ongoing and permanent "every time it rains hard" problem. That to me is just creating another chore. I have enough of them, thank you very much.

 

[jenkinsph]

A couple of questions.

How much traffic does this road see? You said it was part of a mobile home park. I suspect it sees a lot more traffic than most of us think about when we say "driveway".

Secondly, is this one straight road, or is it broken up into a lot of branches between the mobile homes?

* * * * *

I strongly suspect you will not be able to accomplish much within the budget you state, especially on a high traffic road.

And, you may need to buy some more gravel. I don't know if this is included in the budget or not, but 2600 feet of road, 10' wide x 2"deep of gravel is 160 cubic yards of gravel. Around here gravel is in the $15/ton range or about $21/ton. This would be over $3000 worth of gravel. Not to mention the delivery costs. And, you are not going to get that much gravel in the bed of your pickup.

I agree^^^^^ part of the cost of running a park.

 

[bspeedy]

I agree^^^^^ part of the cost of running a park.

Agree with this. No pictures, but you will likely not be able to work with the material you have and will need to bring in some gravel for the drive and rip-rap for the ditches.

Residents and guests driving too fast will create problems for you quicker than normal conditions also.

The budget is important, but I've never had any luck when I didn't get the right tool for the job. My feeling is - if it has to be done, do it properly. It will cost far less in the long run. When I installed my 1/4 mile driveway, I did so with a 30 hp tractor with a backhoe, loader and a box blade. These items were about 15 grand second hand. Add another 5k (estimate for your situation) for gravel and materials and culvert pipe. I think with driveways, it is a matter of pay me now, or pay me later. Unless you are ok with dragging the thing after every moderate rain, I would consider getting the right tools for the job.

Also, I look at tractors differently from some folks. Money spent on a tractor isn't gone. With proper care, the machine will hold its value very well. I sold the tractor I bought when I did my driveway after 3 years of ownership and about 400 hours on the meter for a little more than what I paid.

Any venture such as this needs to be planned for both the long term and the short term. Meeting only your short-term needs with just enough resources to get by may cause you more grief and expense down the road than doing it right from the get-go. Only you can make the decisions required based upon your personal financial situation. Good luck.

 

[newby in tenn]

A couple of questions.

How much traffic does this road see? You said it was part of a mobile home park. I suspect it sees a lot more traffic than most of us think about when we say "driveway".

Secondly, is this one straight road, or is it broken up into a lot of branches between the mobile homes?

* * * * *

I strongly suspect you will not be able to accomplish much within the budget you state, especially on a high traffic road.

And, you may need to buy some more gravel. I don't know if this is included in the budget or not, but 2600 feet of road, 10' wide x 2"deep of gravel is 160 cubic yards of gravel. Around here gravel is in the $15/ton range or about $21/yard. This would be over $3000 worth of gravel. Not to mention the delivery costs. And, you are not going to get that much gravel in the bed of your pickup.

Thanks for your help.
There are 2 legs to the park with parking in front or beside the the homes. Parking areas are ok, the "road" area is where the ruts and potholes are. Each leg has 10 homes with one or two vehicles.

There 6k budget was for the tractor with loader and box blade and grader blade. Gravel or the reclaimed asphalt or reclaimed brick and concrete would in addition to the 6k. Think the reclaimed products are around $230 a dump truck load delivered.

 

[newby in tenn]

You said the ruts run across the road in run off areas. The only way to fix the problem of drainage across the road is to dig out the spot and install a culvert. Anything else, such as just filling the ruts with dirt or rock is just a temp. fix. Personally, I like to fix something one time, not create an ongoing and permanent "every time it rains hard" problem. That to me is just creating another chore. I have enough of them, thank you very much.

Thanks for the incite. I am trying to learn from the experience of you and the others on this site.
Hoping to contour the road to run the water into a ditch. I agree that I don't want to get myself iinto a recurring problem.