Kubota B2601 Hydraulic PHD vs PTO driven
- Thread starter aRvy
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topbuilder
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2012
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- 494
- Location
- Lone Stare State
- Tractor
- New Holland 345D shuttle, Rayco RG 50 Super, Southern Tractor (Hinomoto) E-280
I run everything pto at the full 540 RPMs. It is probably less critical for PHD or seeder than a brush cutter where you create strain running at a lower rpm. Kinda like driving a 4 speed car in 4th gear at 30 MPH.
Fallon
Super Member
PHDs are the exception to the rule... I barely run mine above an idle. If you run it fast, you'll only do that once before you realize that's a bad idea.
topbuilder
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2012
- Messages
- 494
- Location
- Lone Stare State
- Tractor
- New Holland 345D shuttle, Rayco RG 50 Super, Southern Tractor (Hinomoto) E-280
I guess that really depends on your ground conditions. Where I'm at you run full pto rpm until you break through the hard clay layer (12 to 16") Working for every inch until you break through to something that has a moisture content then let it corkscrew 5-6 inches and pull out of it. Even then I'm running close to 540.
Fallon
Super Member
Wow... I ran mine at part throttle once & that was plenty scary. I had clay issues in til I got better teeth for my auger. Id go a foot, hit clay & that was it. A few hundred lbs on the auger or water in the hole overnight didnt help at all. It had fat frost & rock carbide teeth. Put in thinner sharper ones & that helped. That was on a beefy nice name brand auger started with a P I think. My cheaper 12" from the local ranch store has even less issues. Thinner teeth that will wear out a LOT faster I'm sure, but they dot even flinch when they hit the clay layer.
gwstang
Platinum Member
I've corkscrewed mine a couple of times. Takes all the fun out of it. 
Just have a fairly good sized cheap pipe wrench and four foot piece of pipe (conduit will work fine and is cheap) that will slip over the handle of the pipe wrench. Then just back it out, only takes a few minutes...unless you are like me and the dang thing sinks all the way to china. Slow and easy is best. One thing that does help when removing it is to leave the tractor running with the lift on "up" and pto off. Then when you do get it loosened somewhat, the tractor will simply pick it on up out of the hole. :thumbsup:
Just have a fairly good sized cheap pipe wrench and four foot piece of pipe (conduit will work fine and is cheap) that will slip over the handle of the pipe wrench. Then just back it out, only takes a few minutes...unless you are like me and the dang thing sinks all the way to china. Slow and easy is best. One thing that does help when removing it is to leave the tractor running with the lift on "up" and pto off. Then when you do get it loosened somewhat, the tractor will simply pick it on up out of the hole. :thumbsup: