GC1705 - snow removal near Denver

[AxleHub]

Rossn, to put a plow on the fel in place of the bucket . . You'd need either a front remote or a 3rd function valve and a hydraulic controlled blade swive hitch in order to get your 6 way tip/ tilt/swivel control setup. Or you could have a manual swivel instead of 3rd function and hydraulic valve to operate the swivel.

One other tjing to consider . . I personally plan to build a fel mounted plow for my gc1715 . . But recognize that a frame mounted unit with hitch has the advantage of being harder to "spring" because the fel has more leverage issues compared to frame mounted.

 

[coldsteelva]

This is what I'm going with this season...http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200435196_200435196

 

[atsah]

I going to try the combination FEL and three point hitch back blade.. From the video's I have watched it should work well in my situation..

 

[ray66v]

But recognize that a frame mounted unit with hitch has the advantage of being harder to "spring" because the fel has more leverage issues compared to frame mounted.

I disagree. There should be no difference, if both are sprung correctly.

What advantage are suggesting the frame mounted plow has? How hard do you need it to spring?

As long as the plow doesn't lay face down, while you are plowing, and trips when you hit something, what more could you ask for? Mine works like that.

If you hit something hard, you will damage things, no matter which option you choose.

My plow is manual angle. I usually only have to change it a couple of times, plowing my drive. Not a big deal.

 

[AxleHub]

A fel is based on a vertical and horizontal length. In my gc1715 that length from fel mount bade to end of fel is about 7 feet and then the hitch and swivel. On a frame mount its a horizontal and the length is about 1 foot plus hitch and swivel. Its far easier to spring a fel mounted plow with 7 feet of leverage than it is a frame mounted plow with 1 foot of leverage.

However there are also some advantages to the fel mounted plow - - - especially if you have a quick attach. But it means a fel mount has to be handled more carefully. I'm willing to do that as a tradeoff because then the fel is always on and I will be able to quick attach between bucket and forks and grapple and snow plow.

 

[JWR]

If you spring for the dollars (pun intended) for a good plow it will have large springs that control the break-away if you hit something. I do not think (even without that protection) you have much vulnerability to bending or distorting your FEL and certainly not the frame-mounting. For one thing you guys are super careful or you would not even be having this conversation. 90% of people barrel ahead and think of that later. AH! Don't worry about it.

 

[ray66v]

A fel is based on a vertical and horizontal length. In my gc1715 that length from fel mount bade to end of fel is about 7 feet and then the hitch and swivel. On a frame mount its a horizontal and the length is about 1 foot plus hitch and swivel. Its far easier to spring a fel mounted plow with 7 feet of leverage than it is a frame mounted plow with 1 foot of leverage.

However there are also some advantages to the fel mounted plow - - - especially if you have a quick attach. But it means a fel mount has to be handled more carefully. I'm willing to do that as a tradeoff because then the fel is always on and I will be able to quick attach between bucket and forks and grapple and snow plow.

Do you mean bend, when your using the word "spring"?

 

[AxleHub]

Do you mean bend, when your using the word "spring"?

Yes in a way for some definitions. When there is a single point mount and pressure deflects it . . Its bent. But when you have a matched and aligned pair and they get out of a matched and aligned condition . . they are sprung . . . because their condition is more than just bent . . its affected across the entire length potentially - bend, twist, wrenched, cocked, etc.. etc.. Its often possible to unbend or correct a bend . . But when an aligned matched pair is sprung it is very complicated to correct if at all because the matched aligned pair aren't affected the same way for each item. ( an example is 1 arm gets twisted while the other arm gets bent sideways and upward )

It's easier to spring a fel than it is to bend a frame mount item . .because a fel has numerous hinges/joints plus much larger/longer side pressure leverage.

At the same time . . while a plow on a fel can not take thevsame stress levels as a frame mounted plow . . it has its own set of benefits which is why I will fabricate something as a fel mounted plow for my sub compact

 

[ray66v]

Yes in a way for some definitions. When there is a single point mount and pressure deflects it . . Its bent. But when you have a matched and aligned pair and they get out of a matched and aligned condition . . they are sprung . . . because their condition is more than just bent . . its affected across the entire length potentially - bend, twist, wrenched, cocked, etc.. etc.. Its often possible to unbend or correct a bend . . But when an aligned matched pair is sprung it is very complicated to correct if at all because the matched aligned pair aren't affected the same way for each item. ( an example is 1 arm gets twisted while the other arm gets bent sideways and upward )

It's easier to spring a fel than it is to bend a frame mount item . .because a fel has numerous hinges/joints plus much larger/longer side pressure leverage.

At the same time . . while a plow on a fel can not take thevsame stress levels as a frame mounted plow . . it has its own set of benefits which is why I will fabricate something as a fel mounted plow for my sub compact

Okay, now I follow.

Snow plows should have springs. How stiff they are, is how the plow is sprung.

That's what confused me.

If the plow is sprung correctly, and designed well, it should go over whatever you hit.

Unless you hit a wall.

 

[Jonohio]

Thanks for all the thoughts on the topic. I'm just trying to make sure that the blower isn't overkill, since I don't have a 2000' driveway, like some, and given we get moderate, but not heavy snow. It's pretty pricey.

Curious, I know it was mentioned that the blower works best over 1" of snow. In practical terms, for most snow clearing, how close does it get? Mainly concerned that if I'm always leaving down 1/2-1" of snow, then it turns into ice -- especially since the tall garage is north facing.

I have a steep 120' long driveway and I just picked up a used kubota bx2750d to put on front of my GC1710. Overkill is all in the eyes of the beholder. I highly value efficient snow removal.