Replaced some SickleBar Guard Teeth

[pmsmechanic]

We used to just take the guard off and chisel the top of the rivet off and replace the knife section without even taking the knife out of the swather. You just needed something to set the rivet onto so that you could pien the head to hold the knife section on. Usually just a piece of bar was enough to hit against.

Then somebody invented bolts to hold the knife sections on. That makes the job even easier. Yes the bolt sticks out more on top than a rivet but you just replace your hold downs with ones that have more clearance.

 

[Steave]

I bought a Ford 515 for $150 and spent another $150 tuning it up. Expect many years of abusive roadbank cutting from it.

The ford 515 is what I was looking for when I found the 501. None to be found around here. Every once in a while I'll see others but most are beyond repair. The one I found for $200 was actually worth restoring to new for someone that does that sort of stuff but I got it to use and it brings back fond memories of the old farm.

All that has drastically changed but I have a lot of the old small farm equipment I use.

I've got an old sickle vise I call it. Actually it's just a post vise but I remember the one set up outside the old farm shop was used mostly for sickle repair so it was called the sickle vise. About the only time I seen somebody using it was for driving out rivets like you mentioned. I've only seen it done but I'll try it if I ever replace any sections on my blade.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Then somebody invented bolts to hold the knife sections on. That makes the job even easier. Yes the bolt sticks out more on top than a rivet but you just replace your hold downs with ones that have more clearance.

My case IH 1300 I use around my ponds and roads is originally a riveted sections, but as I replace them I've been switching over to the bolts.

 

[vsteel]

I'll try to describe this so it's understandable.

Fastest way to remove sections. Bench vise. Open the jaws just wide enough for the section to slip thru, point down. Not so wide that the sickle bar will also slip thru. Position the bad section, tip down in the loose vice with the section bar resting on one vise jaw. Smack the top end of the section you want removed with a shop hammer. This action will shear both rivets. Depending on accuracy and personal strength this will be accomplished with 2 or 3 strikes of the hammer. Job done.

I have done that method as well. I find it works best if you smack one side of the section and then the other so you shear the rivets off one at a time. If you can't swing the hammer hard enough or have other issues the grinder method will take care of you.

 

[jimmysisson]

Not sure the 501 will run off-angle as it uses a pitman rod. Off-topic I realize. But not useful at some pond banks.
Jim

 

[Steave]

Not sure the 501 will run off-angle as it uses a pitman rod. Off-topic I realize. But not useful at some pond banks.
Jim

You're right it won't. I think about 20* up and 15* down if you just have to but it's made to cut horizonal. We have one that will cut vertical and it's a mid mount made for an old 8N. It was used by the county for roadside cutting long years ago. I'm missing the belt attachment that fits on the pto and routes the belt up to the mid mount mower. It's all manual and I've never used it. It looks like it would take much of a man to run that thing. Oh I'm still much of a man but the much is in the wrong place and the good is gone.

 

[ovrszd]

When I started looking for a sickle mower I would only look at belt drive. Didn't want anything to do with pitman drive cause I planned to cut odd angles.

Just fell into the Ford 515 deal. Worked out well since I run it on the Ford 3910. Color match....

There two different frame configurations on the 515. Sorry, can't remember the numerical details. One is for narrow tractors such as the older 600s, 800s, etc. The other is for wider tractors such as my 3910.

My mower is for the narrower tractors. To make it work I have to pin my 3pt arms to the right as far as possible. No driveline issues. Just looks a bit weird when viewed from the rear.