Logsplitter 2.0

[rswyan]

That be the problem.

I've been looking at Timberwolf's lift designs ... it looks like they are only using a 2" cylinder ... but the lift is constructed differently (only two panels with one angle - instead of three panels with two angles like I used) ... and the initial starting angle of the cylinder is much greater. But they are rated for up to a 500 lb round.

The extra angle on mine created some problems, in terms of interference with the cylinder, when raised.

A tad over 19" plus a tad under 6" is about 25". The length of the AC side. You are putting alot of force into doing not alot of work. Need more angle difference[/B.

Yup.

I should have put a little more thought into the geometry for the lift. Part of the reason the cylinder got located as it did was ensuring I had clearance with the log lift and the beam. Also the hose routing figured into it as well.

Didn't really figure out effective force being applied which I clearly should have done.

A cylinder on a 2 degree angle only has 3.5% of its force available for the lift. Half that at 1 degree.

So at 2 degrees and 2000psi, you can lift 475# total. Take the weight of the lift of....and you have very little capacity.

Yeah ... the lift probably weighs 75 lbs anyways ... mebbe more ...

And that means the other 13000 pounds of force from the cylinder is trying to push itself apart, as it did

Lemme tell ya, when it popped it got my attention ... :laughing:

 

[rswyan]

just caught the end of this story, to get any decent use out of your splitter, get the biggest engine you can, the 11 hp would be a start,

I'm going to play around with the unloader valve a little ... I can't really remember where that ended up last year when I was messing with it.

Could be that I've got it set way too high ... which may be causing the stalling.

I also messed around with the throttle/governor on the engine ... it currently has a spring off of it. Need to see if I can figure out how exactly that is supposed to be.

Having said that, I've been doing some reading and it seems some are using 6.5 hp engines with this gpm pump and reporting no issues.

If I do replace the engine, I'm thinking that I probably won't go larger than the 8 hp unit ... and at $120, the 6.5 hp Predator is tempting.

... your lifting arm, remember the friction you need to overcome on the start of the lift, if you just rely on pins and holes, this can be very high, even a well greased bushing will make a big difference,

Good point :thumbsup:

and as for the weld breaking, from your picture it looks like a bad weld, no penetration on the solid, grind it out re-weld it and stick a fillet on for good measure, keep on building

Yup ... will grind it out, bevel/fillet it and turn up the juice. Will also gusset it.

The chart on my welder only goes to 1/4 for .035 wire ... the voltage tap for 1/4" is "E" and with a wire speed of 320.

When I was doing the 4-way yesterday I set the tap up to "F" and cranked it up to 400 ... nice sizzle ...

 

[rswyan]

I think you need to add a piece of the thinner flat material in front of your wedge. To help it get started before it widens. Like a few inches of knife edge to penetrate first.....then the main show.

Yeah ... that's why I mentioned grinding a little more taper on to the vertical knife edge.

I've got the room to do it (before I get to the horizontal wedge wings) ... but it probably wouldn't be as pretty as the edge I put on the vertical knife with the Delta Sharpening Center ...

I need to take a closer look and see how much it will reduce the available capacity (length of rounds) ... at this point no parts of the 4-way extend past the fixed wedge on the beam.

Working on the lift math right now

Appreciate your help.

 

[LD1]

just caught the end of this story, to get any decent use out of your splitter, get the biggest engine you can, the 11 hp would be a start, your lifting arm, remember the friction you need to overcome on the start of the lift, if you just rely on pins and holes, this can be very high, even a well greased bushing will make a big difference, and as for the weld breaking, from your picture it looks like a bad weld, no penetration on the solid, grind it out re-weld it and stick a fillet on for good measure, keep on building

Bigger than necessary motor won't help in the slightest.

2-stage pumps can only be cranked up so high (pressure wise) on the high flow stage. Take that highest psi setting at the given 13 gpm, as well as the high pressure psi and gpm, and run the formula. Any more motor than is required is a waste of money and fuel.

 

[LD1]

Rswyan: how hard would it be to lower the cylinder base pivot 4-6"? That should help with the angle.

You have plenty of cylinder, just have to get the geometry right

 

[rswyan]

Rswyan: how hard would it be to lower the cylinder base pivot 4-6"? That should help with the angle.

Yup.

It wouldn't be all that hard ... just need some 1" x 3" bar stock to make the attachment point.

Called my steel supplier about that today ... used to be that they had an Ebay store and posted all their misc. cuts/drops on there for sale ... so at least you could see what they had hangin' around in the pile. I knew that they had done away with the Ebay store, because supposedly it was too much hassle for too little return (they were taking individual pictures of each piece and posting them with the Ebay listings :confused2

Unfortunately, it looks like not only have the done away with the Ebay store, but they have also done away with the drop pile ... asked the sales guy today about mebbe seeing if they had anything in 1" x 3" bar in the pile and he asked "How long you need it?" and I said a foot or two.

He just kinda laughed and said "We would have scraped that ... but we can cut whatever you need ..."

So I sez "So ... what are we looking at for a foot or two of 1" x 3" ?

He sez "... $30 ..." ... and I think that was only for 1 foot ... need to recheck tho' ...

IOW: about $3 a pound ... and even more expensive than some of the online places ... although mebbe not, by the time you figure in shipping

Normally, I try never to buy anything less than a standard length from them ... because they gouge your eyeballs out.

OTOH, at least they will consider screwing around with a sale that small.

You have plenty of cylinder, just have to get the geometry right

Yup, that be the plan.

 

[rswyan]

May be onto to something ...

Was just inspecting the screw for unloader valve ... I can turn it either way and there is no change in the height of the screw head.

Almost looks like it's turned in so far that it went beyond the threads.

If that's the case, I'd imagine that it's set as high as it will go ... which would explain the engine stalling.

 

[jimmysisson]

FYI, I have a splitter with a 5" cyl and 7hp Briggs and 13 gpm pump. It's a good match powerwise: never stalls though it does get on the governor some. Deadly slow for my taste but strong.
Jim

 

[rswyan]

FYI, I have a splitter with a 5" cyl and 7hp Briggs and 13 gpm pump. It's a good match powerwise: never stalls though it does get on the governor some. Deadly slow for my taste but strong. Jim

Jimmy,

Appreciate the info ... Good to know that I'm in the neighborhood horsepower-wise.

 

[ajmaxham]

Side profile of the log lift, show the relation of the hinge pins and rod end cylinder attachment point:

View attachment 479274

I would change the log lift design to one long side, one angle and the base. I think that would give you a better push angle for the log lift.



The one long side works well to stage smaller rounds to be split.