Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks

   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks #11  
Mykleh: Similar in concept to Dieselcrawler's... and it doesn't complicated at all. Again, do you remember what size stock you used and also, do you have any idea what your's weighs? Is the frame solid under heavy load or do you have bit of flex? Did you just grind out the notches?[/QUOTE]

I used 3/16 tube stock as that is what I had available.. my 1620 will only lift 800#'s so I wanted it light.. forks came off a commercial fork truck so they are plenty heavy already.. I can lift about a half pallet of pavers with the BB on the back for ballast and tell the landscaping outfit that's all I want on a pallet but its better than doing them individually.. with that weight there is no flex. I've put the forks together and uprooted trees the whole deal and never bent it. I have access to a bridgeport so I milled the slots in the flat plate. I do wish I had added a 2" receiver while at it..
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Here is how I did mine. They work on the 3 point also.

Thanks Lee, a nice job and functional. Do you really use it at all on the 3pt? That's a consideration I hadn't thought about but I really don't see any use for it on my place... of course, maybe I just don't yet know that I really do need that capability! :laughing:

Also, it looks like the cross bar and tubing are a bit smaller than some others I've seen. I'm guessing the bar might be .5" x 2" or maybe 2.5" and the tubing 2" square (1/4" wall)? I do see that you also have a .5" bar T'd into the cross bar but I think I'd just go with the sq tubing welded onto the back of the horizontal bars. If you can confirm the measurements I'd sure appreciate it since they certainly look strong enough.
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I used 3/16 tube stock as that is what I had available.. my 1620 will only lift 800#'s so I wanted it light.. forks came off a commercial fork truck so they are plenty heavy already.. I can lift about a half pallet of pavers with the BB on the back for ballast and tell the landscaping outfit that's all I want on a pallet but its better than doing them individually.. with that weight there is no flex. I've put the forks together and uprooted trees the whole deal and never bent it. I have access to a bridgeport so I milled the slots in the flat plate. I do wish I had added a 2" receiver while at it..

This is really good to hear Mykleh, I also have the commercial forks and your tractor is only 50 lb more capable at the pins than mine so the working capability should be pretty close (of course, 50 lbs is still 50 lbs, but it's a start.)

You used 3/16 stock, but what size square? 2"? And the cross bars... would they be .5" x 3"? Or bigger? Smaller? If you could put a tape on them and post the dimensions, that would sure be appreciated. And of course, a picture or two would be awesome!
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks #14  
I well get my measurements tomorrow. Yes I do use them on the 3pt. for moving my wood racks. If I didn't have a hyd top link I would maybe not use it on the 3pt, I would have to use my larger tractor then.
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I well get my measurements tomorrow. Yes I do use them on the 3pt. for moving my wood racks. If I didn't have a hyd top link I would maybe not use it on the 3pt, I would have to use my larger tractor then.

Thanks Lee, as said, I hadn't thought of the 3pt use before. I don't haul wood, but... well, I'll have to think on it.

Also, thanks for offering to get the measurements. I look forward to seeing what the actual sizes are.
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks #16  
For forks for a tractor as small as a 790 JD, why not skip the carriage and make them fixed width? Saves a bunch of weight and complexity. You can also save a bunch more weight if you make the forks out of some rectangle tubing rather than standard class 1 forks. With only 750 lbs of capacity, you want to save every pound you can.

Mine are fixed width and weigh 80 lbs (yes 80) total. I've never missed not having the adjustability but I would make them 32" wide rather than the 36" I did to fit a wider range of pallets. I've bent them from abuse (moving 4000 lbs rocks) but they've easily stood up to everything reasonable.
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks #17  
Didn't get the measurements because I just got home and it's raining cats and dogs. Tomorrow!
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#18  
For forks for a tractor as small as a 790 JD, why not skip the carriage and make them fixed width? Saves a bunch of weight and complexity. You can also save a bunch more weight if you make the forks out of some rectangle tubing rather than standard class 1 forks. With only 750 lbs of capacity, you want to save every pound you can.

Mine are fixed width and weigh 80 lbs (yes 80) total. I've never missed not having the adjustability but I would make them 32" wide rather than the 36" I did to fit a wider range of pallets. I've bent them from abuse (moving 4000 lbs rocks) but they've easily stood up to everything reasonable.

Yeah, but I've got the forks and they only cost me $50. Being adjustable does have some advantages so I guess I'll find out if the advantage will out weigh the extra weight. :scratchchin:
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Didn't get the measurements because I just got home and it's raining cats and dogs. Tomorrow!

No problem! Part of my retirement plan is to not be in a hurry anymore. You're just helping me meet my goal! :biggrin:
Actually, I just appreciate you being willing to go through the trouble... It's really what makes this such a great forum!!!! Thanks again.
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks #20  
The T is 2 3/4"X 1/2" on the face and 1 1/2"X 1/2" for the web. You have to make sure the face is up high enough to clear the fork lip after welding. Same for the bottom T and it's the same as the top.

The frame is 2"X 1/4" wall, that does not have to be that thick, 5/16" is enough by far. I always keep 2" tubeing around and the 1/4" must of been what I had at the time. Also it does not need 4 center pieces, I added the 3pt later.

If you think you might add the 3pt later set the 2 center pieces at 12" from C/L to outside edge and that well give you 24" outside to outside of tube. With the pins takeing up 1/2" on each side and you use 1/2" stock for the pins you well end up 26" or cat 1.

My mounts are kicked out 10 degs. and 44" wide to match my tractor. The fork frame is 48"
 

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