Kioti NX6010 vs John Deere 4720

[MinnesotaEric]

Well now, isn't this just f*#@ng nice.... I almost tipped into the lake.. Pretty sure that the more narrow and higher sitting tractor would have been in the drink....

I've been stuck like that. Lock rear diff, in 4x4, and using the loader to walk myself back out. Sort of the stuck excavator technique. It works up to a point.

FWIW, I put my Bosch digital level on my tractor and have become comfortable with steeper grades.

 

[ritcheyvs]

OK guys, you have me convinced. Two remotes it is. I think he told me $500 per set of remotes which seemed steep.

What about engine block heater? It gets cold where I live do any of you have block heater? Do I need one?

As a data point. I happily paid $300 (eBay) for the second remote kit for my DK and installed it DIY during the winter (burr). My DK45s had been out of production for some years and I was lucky to even find an OEM kit. If my tractor was designed for three remotes, I'd have three.

A block heater will reduce engine wear if you start the engine often at below-freezing temps because the oil will flow better and sooner. It will also give quicker starts but Kiotis seem to start OK even when quite cold. Synthetic engine oil helps a great deal too because it its low pour point. If you have a cab with heater, a block heater will give warm air a lot sooner. Given the cost (probably about $100), I think a heater is a good investment if you plan to plow snow (or do other winter work) with the tractor.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I paid right at 300 each for my three remotes.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

As a data point. I happily paid $300 (eBay) for the second remote kit for my DK and installed it DIY during the winter (burr). My DK45s had been out of production for some years and I was lucky to even find an OEM kit. If my tractor was designed for three remotes, I'd have three.

A block heater will reduce engine wear if you start the engine often at below-freezing temps because the oil will flow better and sooner. It will also give quicker starts but Kiotis seem to start OK even when quite cold. Synthetic engine oil helps a great deal too because it its low pour point. If you have a cab with heater, a block heater will give warm air a lot sooner. Given the cost (probably about $100), I think a heater is a good investment if you plan to plow snow (or do other winter work) with the tractor.

If I had the time, I'd like to add a 4th and fifth electric over hydraulic rear remote off of my NX6010.

 

[rcooley4]

Just for thought, as far as towing I have on occasion towed my dk45 with loader and rhino 95 backhoe that pushes 7000lbs and had no trouble towing short distance with a 84 blazer with a 6.2 in it , anyone that knows the 6.2 could tell ya it's no powerhouse, not even close.i don't think u would have any problem with your truck as long as your not traveling mountains.

Jesse,
That's what I was thinking. I think it will pull it without a problem, I'll just go slow and take the back roads.

 

[rcooley4]

Well now, isn't this just f*#@ng nice.... I almost tipped into the lake.. Pretty sure that the more narrow and higher sitting tractor would have been in the drink....

Kapper,
I just watched part 2 over on youtube, good show! :thumbsup: You lucked out having the cement slab there, that definitely saved your ***, otherwise you would have been waiting for another set of hand. I was actually surprised you got it out by yourself.

I have a couple of random comments/questions for you.

1. Looks like I'm a little late for this but I would have STRONGLEY recommended that you put a floor drain in the heated portion of your barn so if you ever cement the rest of it I would recommend you consider it. Nothing like pulling in your truck or tractor covered in snow, cranking up the heat and having it all melt off and drain away. It's also nice to pull your salt covered truck or trailer in and hose it off in the middle of the winter in. Now it look like you'll just have to invest in a good floor squeegee. I'm not sure what part of the country your in so if your in a wormer climate then this may not be as important but where I live it's worth every penny!

2. When you get to building the house I would recommend you consider installing solid wood interior doors (I wish I listened to my buddy that told me when we built). Things that you touch all the time like doors make a big difference on how the over all fit and finish feels when your done, you won't regret spending the few extra buck when you look back a few years from now. My wife even wishes we did this and she's a penny pincher.

3. What kind of camera do you use for making a your video's? EricTheOracle, would you mind chiming in on this as well?

4. What software do you use for editing them? (I like how you add the scrolling text)

5. Is your JD 3point quick hitch cat1 or 2? Someplace I remember you saying the you prefer the JD quick hitch over some others you have tried, have you ever tried the "Woods" breand quick hitch? (I'm working a packed deal) I'm guessing the JD one isn't quite as wide since your rear fenders aren't all busted up like EricTheOracle are, either that or your just more careful.

I guess that's all for now, I'm sure I'll think of something else later. Time to go brush hog before the baby wakes up... (I borrowed my fiends tinny little JD2520 and 4' brush hog)

 

[kromc5]

That definitely sunk pretty deep least the tires looked clean on the outside. The clay here will stick so badly to the tires that you cannot make out the treads. I almost did the something digging a small minnow pond right beside the larger one with a dirt scoop on my deere. Water started slowly seeping in and I kept sliding deeper towards the pond.

 

[DieselBound]

Well now, isn't this just f*#@ng nice.... I almost tipped into the lake.. Pretty sure that the more narrow and higher sitting tractor would have been in the drink....

Running parallel to a wet area is, as you discovered, risky I look to run forward with the bucket as generally you can use the bucket to help push back with: in your case the bucket wasn't of much help.

Whether it would have worked better or not I'd have cabled up to the right side of the tractor. Reason being (again, this is in MY MIND, which many people will point out is subject to question :laughing is that your left rear wheel was getting traction and was driving the tractor counterclockwise. Putting more pull on the other side is helping to offset that fulcrum. It might seem counter intuitive...

I got an 9k excavator stuck and had to drag it back through a ditch. Add a bunch more weight with packed mud in the tracks (over the top of the tracks!). I used a More Power Puller (The More Power Puller, Portable Winches, Cable Puller, Come Along Winches | The Wyeth-Scott Co., Established 1906) -a manually operated cable puller- to inch my way out: this one use easily paid for the winch, as it saved me from another day of rent on the excavator. I was hooked up to the back of my truck (F250). I did NOT try to pull with my truck (and I have some modestly aggressive tread on the tires). I pushed and or pulled with the excavator's bucket just enough to drop slack in the cable/chains and then hopped out and took up the slack, literally INCH BY INCH. The trick is to keep in the back of your mind that you're likely only to need to go a very short distance before you get traction and that you cannot try to speed things up (don't want to get to the point of spinning wheels/tracks).

Here's the first time I'd gotten a tractor stuck:



Couldn't go in reverse. Some big stumps had me pinned on the right side. Water is flowing under the rear wheels. Sister and her husband came with some cable and I was able to pull down on the left front wheel using a come-a-long tied to a nearby tree (I didn't have a truck at the time, so nothing portable to hook up to): took just a few cranks and it brought that front corner down and then instantly out. Oh yeah, sticking a bunch of boards under the tires didn't help! :laughing:

 

[rcooley4]

Hi guys,

I thought of another questions, how hard is it to remove the loader on the NX6010? How long does it take? I have scoured the internet and I can't find anything either from Kioti or on youtube showing the process. Do you need to be concerned about breaking the glass on the cab during the process? It looks rather close.

Thanks for all your help guys!

 

[countrybumpkin]

It's very simple and only takes a few moments. As you remove the loader it actually gets farther away from the glass , no real worry about hitting the glass. Here is a kubota video from one of the members here, the kioti basically works the same way. One thing you want to do is make sure you have the loader and legs setting on a solid footing, a concrete pad is great but other surfaces work too. If you unhook it on a soft or dirt surface, the legs can settle into the dirt and make hooking it back on very difficult sometimes.