Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED?

[joshuabardwell]

I have realized what a difference a ballast box will make in my tractor's handling. Only problem is I just got quoted over $700 for one. And they say Deere accessories are expensive! That seems like a pretty high price to me, and I wonder if the dealer is just trying to have me on. But no matter. I've done a lot of reading here and elsewhere and seen others' builds of ballast boxes. Since I don't have a welder, nor any welding ability, welding is out.

I am thinking of taking a 55 gallon plastic drum, putting a drawbar through it, and filling it with cement. Maybe I should use a metal drum instead? Metal drums are a little hard to find around here, but I can get plastic drums for $8 all day long.

I have heard some suggestions that the cement may crack if it is required to support the drawbar like this (versus having a welded metal box to hold the pins). What's the general opinion on this?

Also, any suggestions on what to use to construct the top link connector? I suppose I could just take two pieces of bar stock and drill holes in them with a hole saw to let the link pin through, then stick them down in the cement and clamp them in place until it dries? Would they just pull out if I did that? Maybe one piece of bar stock, folded into a "U" shape would be more secure.

Any other suggestions are welcome. I believe that I have searched the site thoroughly for tips, but I have not seen anybody doing exactly what I'm suggesting, so I'd like to get some input before I dive in.

 

[acme97]

If you do a search, you find a lot of discussions on this issue. Many have built some great looking and functional ballast boxes out of plastic barrels. I have one ant that's on my project list also. Do a search and you'll see some great additional ideas on hanging hooks, pipes for chainsaws, chain storage areas. If you reinforce the concrete, with some rebar, you should be good. I would also make sure to put bolts etc through the other holes in the drawbar as well as the toplink section to prevent pulling out. Make sure you check the weight you need for your tractor.

 

[joshuabardwell]

If you reinforce the concrete, with some rebar, you should be good. I would also make sure to put bolts etc through the other holes in the drawbar as well as the toplink section to prevent pulling out. Make sure you check the weight you need for your tractor.

Can you speak more to how to reinforce the concrete with rebar? Just put rebar rods running vertically through the concrete? I apologize if these are obvious questions, but this is a new area for me.

Thanks for the suggestion about the bolts through the drawbar. That is a good idea.

 

[phiferpharm]

+1 on the search. Use Barrel Ballast and select titles only and a bunch come up. I did a wooden cradle and used carriage bolts to attach mine to a TSC Carry-all frame that I made a wooden bed for. Works like a charm and no welding required.

 

[joshuabardwell]

+1 on the search. Use Barrel Ballast and select titles only and a bunch come up. I did a wooden cradle and used carriage bolts to attach mine to a TSC Carry-all frame that I made a wooden bed for. Works like a charm and no welding required.

Thanks for the tip. Like I said, I have searched a lot, but I have not used that specific search term. I will give it a go.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Only problem is I just got quoted over $700 for one. And they say Deere accessories are expensive! That seems like a pretty high price to me, and I wonder if the dealer is just trying to have me on.

For what it's worth, I just ran a comparison based solely on the weight of the boxes. I figure they're all made of steel, and constructed basically the same, so just doing a dollars-per-pound comparison ought to get me in the ball park. It does look like the Bobcat box is roughly in line. The Bobcat box weighs 230 lbs empty, compared to a JD BW15073, which weighs 88 lbs empty. 88/230 = 0.38 * $733 = $280, which is round about what I hear a JD ballast box is going for these days.

 

[RoyJackson]

Who quoted you over $700 for a ballast box? That's rather insane.
Even Deere boxes cost about $300 for a brand new one....

 

[joshuabardwell]

Who quoted you over $700 for a ballast box? That's rather insane.
Even Deere boxes cost about $300 for a brand new one....

Well, I thought so too. But I did the math on the weight of the box, and if you just count pound-for-pound in steel, it seems like the Bobcat box is priced in line with the JD box. What am I missing?

EDIT: Either way, I think I am going to come out way ahead just building it myself.

 

[RoyJackson]

Well, I thought so too. But I did the math on the weight of the box, and if you just count pound-for-pound in steel, it seems like the Bobcat box is priced in line with the JD box. What am I missing?

I've no idea if you're missing anything, but category 1 ballast box will fit any category 1 tractor...although Kubota has one that's shaped a bit odd.

I bought a Deere box...used, for $90 (including the sand ballast). This box had never been on a tractor.

Boy, I wonder if that $700 box was made by a defense contractor?

 

[k0ua]

Joshua. on the top link connection I took angle Iron scrap and drilled holes to fit the draw-bar I had run thru the barrel and then drilled holes for the toplink pin and used bolts to the draw-bar.. The only welding I did on the barrel was some rebar cross braces to the 2 inch receiver I put in the back. to get that welded to the drawbar.. Welding with your head in a barrel is not fun. You might find a way to avoid even that much if you wanted a 2 inch receiver in the back ( I use mine all the time) by using all thread to bolt thru extra holes in the draw-bar.. The key is the premade draw-bar having all those extra holes in it.

Here look at post 26 for my pix:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...94-rear-ballast-gentlemen-rear-ballast-3.html

All told less than 100 bucks including the concrete, the hitch and barrel and draw-bar. I have added a couple of things since then, but you get the idea.

James K0UA

 

[k0ua]

Joshua, things I would do different, after 2 years.. I would put in at least 1 more 2 inch pipe for tools. or maybe a 3 inch. I would put more scrap steel or scrap lead in the bottom for more weight. I have 750 lbs.. I could use 350 more. I like having the room on the top to store things. so the only way to get more in a 55 gal drum is to add steel or better yet lead in the bottom. I added 2 inch gravel in the bottom.. but I wish it would turn to lead The pipes are just so handy.. I could add some to the outside and I may do that. I added some 6 inch short pipes on top to corral the chains. keeps them more organized. Overall the barrel is very important to my operation. Helps keep the shiny side up, and is so handy to haul things. I use the 2 inch reciever for my sprayer, and have a 12 volt waterproof connector on the back of the tractor for power. I have other ideas for the 2 inch as well that do not include a trailer (I don't have one). Good luck with your build.

James K0UA

 

[joshuabardwell]

I've no idea if you're missing anything, but category 1 ballast box will fit any category 1 tractor...although Kubota has one that's shaped a bit odd.

I ain't trying to defend it one way or the other, but if it's got 2-3x more steel, it makes sense that it's 2x-3x more expensive. On the other hand, maybe the Bobcat box is over-engineered, with thicker steel than it strictly needs. I dunno. I don't see why anybody would pay $700 for a ballast box, when you could buy a fine box blade or something for the same price and use it as ballast.

 

[BlacknTan]

There's a brand new JD ballast box on flea bay right now for $135. In N.J. so shipping should not be too bad..

John Deere 3 pt. Ballast box (Counter weight box) | eBay

 

[joshuabardwell]

James,

Thanks for the tips.

Joshua, things I would do different, after 2 years.. I would put in at least 1 more 2 inch pipe for tools. or maybe a 3 inch.

I'm kind of torn on this. On the one hand, I see the advantage. On the other hand, my property is relatively small and I seldom need to tractor around hand tools like that. I just walk up and get them from the barn, or toss them in the bucket. But maybe this is one of those things that once you have it, you don't know how you got along without it. And once the cement is poured, there's no going back to change your mind later.

I would put more scrap steel or scrap lead in the bottom for more weight. I have 750 lbs.. I could use 350 more.

I haven't got any scrap steel or lead laying around, so I would have to acquire it. I can see, though, that a full 55 gallon drum (without any tool tubes) would get to around 850 lbs (at 15 lbs a gallon for Portland). My manual recommends a rear ballast weight of 880 lbs without loaded tires, but I bet that a little more would be better to take some of that load off the front axle. Where can a guy get scrap lead from easily?

I use the 2 inch reciever for my sprayer

I am contemplating just sticking a ball mount in the back of the barrel, since I have an extra one of those laying around, and it would be nice to drag the trailer around without having to hitch up the big truck. Not sure if I am motivated enough to buy a 2" receiver... although it would be nice to have the variety, and they're only $20 or so.

on the top link connection I took angle Iron scrap and drilled holes to fit the draw-bar I had run thru the barrel and then drilled holes for the toplink pin and used bolts to the draw-bar..

I am not sure I am picturing this correctly. The angle iron scrap went all the way down the barrel and connected to the draw-bar?

The only welding I did on the barrel was some rebar cross braces to the 2 inch receiver I put in the back. to get that welded to the drawbar.. Welding with your head in a barrel is not fun. You might find a way to avoid even that much if you wanted a 2 inch receiver in the back ( I use mine all the time) by using all thread to bolt thru extra holes in the draw-bar.. The key is the premade draw-bar having all those extra holes in it.

I think I see where you are going. Drill an extra hole in the receiver tube and then bolt it to the draw-bar that goes through the barrel, to keep the tube from pulling out.

Thanks for the input, James and everybody else. This is really helpful.

 

[k0ua]

I am not sure I am picturing this correctly. The angle iron scrap went all the way down the barrel and connected to the draw-bar?

Yes I used 4 inch angle iron because that is what I had, but 2 inch would be fine. It goes all the way to the bottom of the barrel, and bolts to the drawbar, I remember I did weld a couple of little spacers to keep the spacing, but you could drill holes and use a little all thread and some nuts just as well.. If you want the 2 inch you could take it and have someone weld some little brackets you could run allthread thru and bolt the other end to the drawbar and once it all set up in the concrete it would be pretty sturdy.. you can get lead wheelweights from tire shops. They sell them for scrap. so I would think if you would pay a bit over scrap prices.. they would let you have them. or maybe a metalworking shop would have "drops" cut off pieces of steel you could talk someone out of.. Not as good as lead, but would work. It depends on how much room at the top you want to have left or just fill the whole thing with concrete.

James K0UA

UGHHH. I just checked wheel weight scrap prices.. at $.51 per lb. holy cow.. what is the world coming too. I might want to rethink the wheel weights thing. Old bar bells at a garage sale?

 

[ns_in_tex]

We did just a little welding to ours, but found this inside picture, before it was poured. We used just junk we had on hand. We forgot to provide a trailer hitch before pouring & had to add one later to the outside.

Maybe you can get some ideas.

 

[roadhunter]

That is a great idea ^^^.

 

[StevenChalmers]

That is a great idea ^^^.

Thanks roadhunter. I'm really happy with they way they turned out. Both for hanging on a box scraper, which is tough given that most have a bend on the top of the backpanel that faces backward, and, that they are half the price of cast iron.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Why don't you start your own thread instead of digging up EVERY thread about a ballast box and advertising your stuff.

 

[StevenChalmers]

CountryBumpkin,

My apologies. I'm new to these forums. Advice noted.

Thanks,


Steven