Burn Barrel design

   / Burn Barrel design #22  
The plans in post 13 call for 50mm and 60mm holes in the barrel, but I can't find any store with that size ammunition or guns.

Bruce
 
   / Burn Barrel design #23  
I found a 300 gallon round barrel that I laid horizontal and put 3" legs on it. I love being able to throw garbage in for a few weeks then light it up. Shovel it out once or twice a year. It worked great for 5+ years so far and only needed 1 door from burn through.

55 gallon barrels seem to burn out too quick for me, but if the 300 goes I will have to revert back to the 55 because they are hard to come by.
 
   / Burn Barrel design #24  
I drill four holes - 1 1/2 inch - in my 55 gallon drum. One dead center in the bottom for water drainage and three - evenly spaced around the barrel about one foot up from the bottom. The barrel sits off the ground on three fire bricks.

That's close to what I did. I only made the bottom center hole 1/2" and then four 1/2" holes around the side of the barrel and very close to the bottom.
 
   / Burn Barrel design #25  
A bi-metal hole saw works superbly for making holes in steel drums. I have had VERY good results with evenly spacing about 6 or 8 holes about 1-1/2" dia. around the outer edge of the bottom. Not on the sides - too much chance of sparks flying from there. Set it on a couple of old bricks (firebrick best). Provides lots of air AND water drainage. Big enough that remnants/ashes can be easily pushed through with a square-point shovel. Burns extremely hot and smoke-free. I attribute the very hot fire to leaving few remains.
 
   / Burn Barrel design #26  
I always punch holes to aid in the burn. One thing that really adds to the life of the barrel for me is to get a lid when I get the barrel and place the lid on the barrel after burning. I find that it is rain soaked ashes hold the moisture and cause the bottom of the barrel to rust out in a short time.
 
   / Burn Barrel design #27  
The plans in post 13 call for 50mm and 60mm holes in the barrel, but I can't find any store with that size ammunition or guns.

Bruce

They are around, but hard to come by recently.
They are usually mounted on tracked armored vehicles or towed designs.
Also putting the newspapers or wood inside to keep the projectiles from going thru both sides is just not going to work effectively..:)

Would the German 88mm be too large of a hole?:laughing:
 
   / Burn Barrel design #28  
The Sharps Big Fifty replica should be available?

Would the German 88mm be too large of a hole?

Would you use a Sherman for the burn barrel??
 
   / Burn Barrel design
  • Thread Starter
#29  
I changed my methods with some advantage. I cut 4 slots at 90 deg, from the bottom up about 8-10". I then use a pry bar and bend one edge in and the other edge out, opening the slot to about an inch and a half wire, to give an angled path for the air. Do this to all four slots, bending in the same direction. That's it. When burning you get a swirling of the combustion air coming in. It seems to burn much better and I do not get clumps of partially burned stuff on the bottom any more. It's also quick to do (although not as fast as the gun method.

Paul

So, Paul, you're using a 'vortex' or 'cyclone' type.

I'm leaning towards this type of design as, for my purposes, the barrel will be used only for tree limb/twig disposal. Perhaps some leaves.

I learnt a new (to me) term in my research; Hardware Cloth. Which I would've simply referred to as a metal 'mesh'. Anyway, it's constantly recommended as a spark-arresting top/lid.
 
   / Burn Barrel design #30  
The plans in post 13 call for 50mm and 60mm holes in the barrel, but I can't find any store with that size ammunition or guns.

Bruce
Ha... just take better aim with your small caliber delivery mechanism to open up the existing hole. :D
 

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