My FX28D needs o ring replacement on the 3-point hydraulic lift piston. I'm somewhat reluctant to tackle this job myself as I'm not sure as to what I might be getting into. The hyd lift breakout drawings for the FX28 are similar to those for the YM series tractors. However, the service manual for the FX28 is all in Japanese. Specifically, I have concerns about removing the piston from the cylinder and detaching the ball shaped ram shaft behind it. (not sure how this shaft mates to the splined rock shaft that rotates the lift arms). Apparently, the panel below the seat and the seat itself, including the panel it rests on must be removed just to get access to front cover plate of the cylinder. I'm also noting that the hydraulic pressure line on the cover plate is metal and rigid. Does the rock shaft or cylinder require removal ? If so, I won't attempt the job.
3-Point Hitch 3-point Hydraulic cylinder has flow by
- Thread starter Ben755
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HoyeTractor
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The piston is not actually connected to the rod (the ball end just rests in a socket in the piston) so you could, in theory, just remove the cylinder head and use a suction cup or similar and pull that piston out. I've never tried it but that would certainly make the job much easier.
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"the ball end just rests in a socket in the piston".....I'm confused, the drawing is showing the ball end part of the shaft facing away from the piston. I just talked to a guy that has a repair shop and works on 3-point hydraulic systems all the time and he says that he has always had to remove the rock shaft before removing the piston from the cylinder.
HoyeTractor
Gold Member, Approved Advertiser
I guess they are both ball ended but I mean the other ball end- the one that slides up into the piston.
That is the way I have always done it also but it seems possible that you could pull the piston out of the cylinder from the front if the piston was not stuck in there too tight- especially if the oring was shot. There might be a lip of rusty stuff near the end that you might have to hone away before you could pull it out though.
Cannot tell for sure, is that a plate on the rear of the lift assembly like this old 2000? If so, might pull that and push the piston out the front. HYDRAULIC_LIFT: Yanmar Tractor Parts
Tractor Seabee
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Here is where us DIY guys get pay back on the cost of a workshop manual. I am sure the Yanmar dealer can get you one for your model. My Kubota WSM has made its cost over many many times.
Ron
Ron
HoyeTractor
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According to the parts book there is not an opening back there- it is solid. I don't have one apart to confirm though. Might be worth a shot.
Cost of the manual is not an issue. If an English version existed, I would certainly try to obtain it. The Yanmar FX series was marketed in Japan only, and the service manual was printed only in Japanese.
runningbird
Gold Member
it does require removal. and it is heavy I use an engine hoist to lift the unit off. It's really not that bad of a job, but takes time, you need to take all the fenders and sheet metal off the back of the tractor just to get started. I have 2 fx 28's and have done both.
runningbird
Gold Member
I took quite a few pictures when doing it the first time. if you decide to move forward let me know and I'll try and dig some up.
What exactly are you referring to that requires a hoist to lift it - surely, not the rock shaft ? It's good to hear that someone has actually performed this job. Thanks for the input.
Wow, I didn't realize the job was that involved. I was thinking that the bolted face plate of the cylinder could be removed after the front and top panels were removed, allowing access to the piston. And then, after removing the rock shaft, the piston could also be removed from the cylinder. This presents something of a dilemma for me - maybe, more than I should tackle.
The pictures would certainly be helpful if you could post them. It's been said that pictures are worth a thousand words, and they might be of benefit to not only myself, but anyone else that might attempt this job.
Don't know that this will help. Picture of an FX24D. Second picture showing where the housing bolts down. I was acutally not working on the 3 point but had to remove it to access the rear differential. Doubt you would have to take quite as much apart to remove the 3 point housing. Still makes sense to me to remove the front cover and try pulling the piston out as Aaron suggested way back. Nothing to lose in trying.
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runningbird
Gold Member
the piston will not come out the front, I even tried when I had the whole housing off the tractor.
Still trying to get the pictures, but really winston's show what needs to come off.
the fx28 is quite a bit heavier than the 24, but if you had some help you could lift it off without a hoist, but because of the angle getting in there it would be a back breaker.
Still trying to get the pictures, but really winston's show what needs to come off.
the fx28 is quite a bit heavier than the 24, but if you had some help you could lift it off without a hoist, but because of the angle getting in there it would be a back breaker.
runningbird
Gold Member
clemsonfor
Super Member
I and Winston both have a post about doing this job. Mine was on a ym2000 and his on like a 2001 . Its not a big deal to remove the whole top. Just might want to have a hoist or be able to get right behind the tractor without a ROPS. It is pretty heavy when I did mine, I was standing backwards on the tractor and lifted it off and was kind of stuck, my forearms were supporting me on the fenders and I was holding the top of the 3pt and I couldn't really stand up due to the steering wheel and I was holding the 3pt so I couldn't push my self up either.
If you want I can link my post with pics here. Its not a hard job though to pull it. And Aaron is right in theory you could pull it out the end by taking that cap off the back but I don't see any way you will pull it out though, its a pretty snug fit unless your oring is in Horrible shape.
If you want I can link my post with pics here. Its not a hard job though to pull it. And Aaron is right in theory you could pull it out the end by taking that cap off the back but I don't see any way you will pull it out though, its a pretty snug fit unless your oring is in Horrible shape.
runningbird
Gold Member
even if you could get the piston out thru the front, the ram shaft would then fall down out of place. Good luck
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