Price Check Buying a used MX5100 - some questions.

[Moluke]

Hello,
I have been looking for a tractor to do general chores (brush removal, 3/4 mile gravel drive maintenance, log moving, etc) around our wooded, rocky and hilly 250 acre property for some time now. A friend of mine is a relatively low volume Kubota dealer, and has a 2012 MX5100 HST 4x4 on his lot. The tractor has about 250 hours on it, with loader. However, the tractor has no rear remotes and no third function. Base price he is asking for the tractor is $25k. With 3rd function (diverter valve) and two rear remotes added, tires filled with window washer fluid, and 6' standard duty LP box blade, is asking around $28,000. I need the two rear remotes for a FitRite top-n-tilt kit, as i'll be grading and cutting in trails with the tractor, and I understand this makes it much more efficient.

My concerns:
1. This price seems awfully high for a used tractor. Is he out of his mind, or accurate?
2. Am I out of my mind by having him add rear remotes to a used tractor? should I just buy new?
3. Are the MX5100s sturdy, reliable tractors? Are there any issues I should look out for?
4. I'm planning on getting a Woods BB720X rotary cutter from my local Woods dealer. The tractor will be mowing a quite rough (10 acre?) power line cut, and I feel I would destroy a light duty mower over time. Is this 1000+lb cutter too much for this tractor?
5. How are the MX5100s in terms of vulnerability to damage? Will I need to fab up some guards for filters/hoses?

Thanks, replies appreciated!

 

[Turbys_1700]

To answer your questions...
1. I think the price is high. Those units bring top dollar especially since they have Tier 3 emissions. The Tier 4 emissions has driven the price of good used units up.
2. No you are not out of your mind to add rear remotes. You will need them whether you buy new or used.
3. Yes. The MX's are very reliable and excellent units.
4. No. Get the heaviest cutter you can afford. You may need to add some ballast to the front end. Your FEL will provide most of that. I typically brush hog with my front bucket off. You should be able to do the same thing.
5. I can't answer that question.
Several months ago I looked at the MX's but bought a Workmaster. The MX's were a little higher in price and used DPF but had hydro. I would have been just as happy with the MX but felt I could get by with a shuttle shift since that was what I was used to. You are not gonna go wrong with a MX. They are fine tractors.

 

[art]

Fortunately the hydraulic system he would be adding to the tractor is still available to be original equipment as normally when two models out those options go away. Is the bucket a quick release? They have been a good reliable tractor, we have more problems with the operators then the tractors. As far as the mower, We only have a few customers that will mow and not pay attention to issues where they are mowing, by that I mean hitting the same stone or tree stump every time they mow and not change the way they mow or remove the problem. We cannot sell them heavy enough of a mower! For most with a little work after the first time they can mow and not need a HD mower! To change and go out mowing for hire I'd go the heavy duty and never look back. We like the double spindle Land Pride and Bush Hog 7' behind tractors of that size, with two tail wheels the ride is a lot nicer.

 

[motownbrowne]

Welcome aboard. I went from an 8n to an MX myself, so I know where you're at.

I love my MX. It's a great tractor. Could i use a bigger tractor at times? Yes, but having a CUT that large with a hydrostatic transmission is really the cat's meow for 99% of what I do. I do think that price I'd high, but compare that price to a new MX 5200 and then see how you feel about it. The new tractors have a DPF, which I'd personally rather avoid. They also have a digital dashboard, which I'd rather not have, and the new ones don't have a clutch. I don't use my clutch often, but coming from old iron, it feels like a nice safety feature; when I push in the clutch, EVERYTHING stops.

Regarding the remotes and the TnT, look up a member here, LD1. In his signature line at the bottom of all his posts is a link to a "build thread" where he added three remotes, TnT cylinders, and a diverter for running a grapple for a really low price. But no, you're not crazy for adding remotes to a used machine. That's a common thing to do.

The MX will handle a 1000# cutter no problem. A six footer for nasty stuff would work great. A twin spindle eight footer for grassy pastures would be great too. I don't think a 7' single spindle would be a great choice.

The MX isn't a fragile tractor, but it's not a dozer or a skid steer either. Depending on what you want to drive over, you should definitely consider some skid protection. Shouldn't be too hard to do. Pretty much any tractor would benefit from this for lots of use bush hogging brushy areas.


Last thought on price: the new models, even though they are missing a clutch pedal, have a digital dash, and DPF, have a longer warranty term. They're also offering great financing and incentives on implement purchases. It is definitely worth getting a couple of quotes on one. One from your friend, but one from a higher volume dealer too. Good luck and let us know what you decide!

 

[sixdogs]

I've got an MX5100 that was bought new.
His price is too high; there are cheaper on the net and his price is higher than some deals were new.
Slightly re-evaluate friend meaning.
The MX is built like a tank and nothing hangs low, is heavy enough and has no issues.
Add remotes; it's no big deal.

The MX5100 is one of the best tractors I have ever owned.

 

[Citydude]

Have you priced a new MX with the options your looking to add to it? 250 hours is low for a four year old machine. The MX is a good durable choice for your needs.

I highly recommend the 3rd function. My grapple is invaluable for working wooded acres. Rear remotes are a huge time saver and well worth the price of admission.



Working in the woods presents hazards to tractors as you have already thought of. The question of adding armor will be determined by you once you experience the conditions you put a tractor in. I added a brush guard to the front to protect the radiator but that's all I've done so far.

If your power line right of way is like mine, a heavy duty mower is a must. The MX will run the cutter your looking at easily.

Good luck on your adventure!

 

[jeff9366]

Has the tractor be stored inside or outside?

Three years outside should equal a reduced price.

 

[sea2summit]

Price is way high.

I love mine, went with the 5800 because the dealer offered me a price on the 4800 well below what I budgeted and I figured extra PTO power can only help. I've never come close to maxing out anything other than FEL capacity and then only when grabbing stump rootballs in the grapple.

Get a quote one a new one from a nearby dealer and use that as a reference point.

 

[Code54]

I also believe the price is high - BUT everyone wants the non Teir 4 so the prices reflect that but you should get it a bit cheaper. I have duel rear remotes and they are VERY handy and worth having!
Not fragile at all but your filters can get hit by brush. I personally always back over big stuff (not weeds, brushy crap) so it gets cut before the tractor gets there to avoid damage.
They are good solid machines and having HST on that size is super handy for brush hogging and doing loader work in tighter locations.

 

[Moluke]

Thanks very much for the replies guys.
I am feeling better about the price now, knowing they are "in demand", and considering that he is delivering it a decent distance. (I need to remember the depreciation on a tractor isn't near that of a car)
Good point about it not having the tier 4 emissions, one less thing to worry about.
Glad to hear that the tractor is durable and not too vulnerable, as I expected. I don't plan on using it like a dozer... although who wouldn't like to have a dozer :thumbsup:
I have considered buying new, but to me the greater simplicity of the slightly older design is valuable.

you should definitely consider some skid protection. Shouldn't be too hard to do.

I'm thinking 4 inch channel tucked up along the sides, with 2x2x0.25" square tube cross members with 0.25" plates bolted to it. Overkill?
Also, I haven't been out to see the tractor yet, but from pictures, the paint looks fine and the bucket doesn't appear to even have a scratch on it.

About him being a friend: I don't really expect him to give me a steal of a deal on it. He's a small businessman, has to make money where he can. I mentioned it mainly because I tend to trust that he wouldn't lead me wrong.

 

[sixdogs]

Having lived in both wooded and open areas, I find it's better for the average guy to use the tractor as it was intended rather than cobble up bunch of metal and then try to use the tractor as a bulldozer or skidder or something else it was not intended to be. If used as intended, no protection is needed. A grill guard would be an exception since twigs can puncture things. I would rather stay out of the twigs but that's just me. Unless you bought this specifically as an item intended for the woods, my vote is use pretty much as intended and be good with it. Or get a skidder or bulldozer.

Things with overkill plate, etc don't re-sell well unless you find another person who wants the same thing. Even then, buyers could be nervous about how the tractor was used. This is just my opinion and am offering my view of things. Just my two cents so if determined to go a certain direction, go for it.

 

[jeff9366]

When mowing brush it is important, once moving forward through brush, to continue.

If you stop, then reverse direction, all the brush pushed flat under the tractor will rise up and tear at the tractor undercarriage.

This is why HEAVY DUTY rotary cutters are often pushed into brush tail wheel first, with the tractor in reverse. Heavy Duty rotary cutters have very rugged tail wheels and tail wheel supports.

 

[LD1]

Too much money.

should be about $21k out the door base price.

I just got mine this spring. Even $20k OTD. Same year, HST, loader, no remotes or attachments, etc. Mine had 348 hrs, so I'm valuing yours another $1000 higher.

Personally I'd avoid a "standard" duty box blade.

You will have no issues at all with a 1000# cutter. My 6' cutter is 1100#. It's not heavy enough to max out loader lift capacity...but I don't have loaded tires....yet. Just bought two 55gal drums of ww fluid.

I run a 1620# 8' twin spindle cutter on mine. Only use the 6' heavy cutter for real dense overgrowth, as it's rated to cut up to 3" stuff, where as my 8' is good for 1.5" stuff only

 

[Moluke]

I do agree, having to build skid plates & guards isn't ideal, but i'm not entirely sure it's necessary yet - we shall see. I understand that the tractor isn't a piece of forestry equipment, but regardless, it will be used in the woods. I have thought quite a bit about a piece of construction type machinery, but they wouldn't fulfill my needs. I'm looking for one machine that will do a little bit of everything. Sure, it won't move dirt like a piece of construction machinery, but it is very versatile.
The skid plates thing was only half serious, however I don't think that they are necessarily a bad idea.

LD1, I have seen your fantastic threads on adding remote hydraulics to your tractor. I've considered doing that myself, but i've never messed with hydraulics before, and am not terribly "mechanically inclined". I'd rather let the professionals do it, and know that it was (probably) done (mostly) right.

Personally I'd avoid a "standard" duty box blade.

I do have reservations about the standard duty box blade. Other than strength, what other advantages does a "heavy duty" box blade have?

Thanks - Luke.

 

[LD1]

Heavier box blades cut material better instead of chattering across the surface.

Light duty would be great for spreading topsoil, sand, or loose stone. But working up virgin ground to level, or grading an existing driveway with packed stone....heavier is better

 

[Moluke]

Ah, good point. And I suppose heavier also means better ballast for loader work?

 

[LD1]

Ah, good point. And I suppose heavier also means better ballast for loader work?

Correct. But something heavy enough to make a good BB may still be a tad light for the loader. My 1100# bushhog that sticks back there a good ways is not enough. I can still lift the back tires before running out of loader capacity. But that's also with unloaded tires.

My 1620# cutter is my go-to for heavy lifting.

I am curious to know what you got quoted when you referenced "standard" duty box blade. Land pride makes several 6'

The 1272 is only rated for 30hp and is 400#
The 1572 is only rated for 40hp and is 500#
The 2572 is 55hp and 550#
The HR2572 jumps to 850#
They also make a HR3578 that adds another 100#

If it were me, I'd want something more than a 550# 6' BB.

 

[motownbrowne]

I do agree, having to build skid plates & guards isn't ideal, but i'm not entirely sure it's necessary yet - we shall see. I understand that the tractor isn't a piece of forestry equipment, but regardless, it will be used in the woods. I have thought quite a bit about a piece of construction type machinery, but they wouldn't fulfill my needs. I'm looking for one machine that will do a little bit of everything. Sure, it won't move dirt like a piece of construction machinery, but it is very versatile.
The skid plates thing was only half serious, however I don't think that they are necessarily a bad idea.

LD1, I have seen your fantastic threads on adding remote hydraulics to your tractor. I've considered doing that myself, but i've never messed with hydraulics before, and am not terribly "mechanically inclined". I'd rather let the professionals do it, and know that it was (probably) done (mostly) right.

I do have reservations about the standard duty box blade. Other than strength, what other advantages does a "heavy duty" box blade have?

Thanks - Luke.

Another possibility would be hiring someone to install the leads in LD1's build. I know my dealer wants about $900/remote. LD1's build is like what, $1,200 for three plus top and tilt? Not trying to twist your arm, just a thought.

 

[sixdogs]

On remotes, I have a different view. I'm not used to working with hydraulics but do know I don't want to learn hydraulic stuff as it relates to remotes at this stage of life. Maybe if I did it over the years but not now. A guy like LD1 is pretty clever, knows what to fix if it goes wrong and knows what he's doing. Fact is, I do not.

So I hired out my remote install to the dealer. They did it while I waited and in multiple uses nothing has gone wrong. I'm OK with that because a problem with a remote when I need a remote would cost me $$. Unless, I was skilled in this area, I would hire it out like you first mentioned.

 

[LD1]

Another possibility would be hiring someone to install the leads in LD1's build. I know my dealer wants about $900/remote. LD1's build is like what, $1,200 for three plus top and tilt? Not trying to twist your arm, just a thought.

Close. It was under $500 for the three remotes. And under $900 total I'd you include the TNT