Metal roof for the Woodshed #2: How much overhang is too much?

[Snobdds]

Just get some Simpson strap ties and some bags of concrete. Pour the concrete around your pre-made footings making a nice slope to shed water. Then put in the strap ties in the concrete with enough left out to nail into your posts. You can put a few galvanized nails in the part of the strap in the concrete to act as an anchor then bend the strap and nail it off. This then anchors your entire structure down.

 

[LD1]

LD, what fasteners do you use on Simpson's products when building stuff like this?

Usually the appropriate gauge nails. Whatever is spec'd. It usually says on the metal hanger as to what size nails to use.

 

[airbiscuit]

It seems like we are over analyzing a wood shed build, but if you are worried about wind taking it away, why not just use a couple of earth augers? If you need more than that for wind :tornado: , check with OZ

 

[FTG-05]

Just get some Simpson strap ties and some bags of concrete. Pour the concrete around your pre-made footings making a nice slope to shed water. Then put in the strap ties in the concrete with enough left out to nail into your posts. You can put a few galvanized nails in the part of the strap in the concrete to act as an anchor then bend the strap and nail it off. This then anchors your entire structure down.

That's not a bad idea, I like it!

I don't really want to dig because a) it sucks digging around here and b) there's a water line somewhere near the woodshed and c) it sucks digging around here.

 

[FTG-05]

It seems like we are over analyzing a wood shed build, but if you are worried about wind taking it away, why not just use a couple of earth augers? If you need more than that for wind :tornado: , check with OZ

Actually, I wasn't woried at all, until you guys brought it up!!!

See post above this as to why I don't want to dig.

Thanks,

 

[FTG-05]

Usually the appropriate gauge nails. Whatever is spec'd. It usually says on the metal hanger as to what size nails to use.

Figured that.

I don't use nails, it's against my religion or some such - that's my story, I'm sticking to it!


ETA: got pics of the SD 9x1 1/2" screws vs. roofing screws, but just spent 3 1/2 hours test-tasting my first Mojito recipe, I'm in no condition to be posting pics, sorry! Tomorrow, I promise!

 

[Redlands Okie]

one must have proper priorities sometimes

 

[Gary Fowler]

Why do you put plywood under R panel metal roofing? I know you have to for hidden seam metal roofs because it needs the support, but R panels don't need that level of support. Just set your purlins at the distance required by the manufacturer. Here, it's every four feet. Do you pout roofing paper on top of the plywood to deal with the condensation that forms under the metal?


Why do "most builders" not extend the roof more then 12 inches? Hardie makes a soffit board that's 16 inches wide that seems to sell pretty good, and is pretty common on new construction around here.

Well I was thinking more of house construction than shed, but still a substrate under steel roofing provides more support than just laying the metal on a flat 2x4 like the OP. I don't think I have ever seen a house built regardless of roofing material used that didn't have a plywood substrate on it.
As for overhang, 12" is common and 16" available but not so common perhaps for material cost savings vs what one would actually gain. 18" as in the OPs photos provides a very weak roof structure that could succumb to wind or even snow load that would buckle the tin. Placing a ladder against it would likely damage it also. Plywood backing under all but the last 2" provides strength to prevent all of this and provide a good walking surface on which to navigate the structure when placing the roofing.

 

[FTG-05]

Well I was thinking more of house construction than shed, but still a substrate under steel roofing provides more support than just laying the metal on a flat 2x4 like the OP. I don't think I have ever seen a house built regardless of roofing material used that didn't have a plywood substrate on it.
As for overhang, 12" is common and 16" available but not so common perhaps for material cost savings vs what one would actually gain. 18" as in the OPs photos provides a very weak roof structure that could succumb to wind or even snow load that would buckle the tin. Placing a ladder against it would likely damage it also. Plywood backing under all but the last 2" provides strength to prevent all of this and provide a good walking surface on which to navigate the structure when placing the roofing.

The 24" on center nominal that I used in both woodsheds came from the roofing manufacture as stated earlier. Since they live about 15 miles away, I think the implication that they know what they are talking about regarding rain, snow and/or wind loads is pretty accurate.

Never mind the weight of the +200 lb friend that was on the roof walking around screwing the roof screws in. He didn't even phase it.

 

[ovrszd]

The 24" on center nominal that I used in both woodsheds came from the roofing manufacture as stated earlier. Since they live about 15 miles away, I think the implication that they know what they are talking about regarding rain, snow and/or wind loads is pretty accurate.

Never mind the weight of the +200 lb friend that was on the roof walking around screwing the roof screws in. He didn't even phase it.

I think maybe you and Gary are talking about two different things.