HVAC/Thermostat (Y1 voltage) Help!!!!!!!!!

[woody]

LD1 I am not an expert but sounds like you may have some thing restricting the air moving through the t-stat causing it to not read the house temp real time. then the 18v on y1 is a different problem.

 

[fitter1]

Please describe exact location you are reading 18v.ie. r-y1, c-y1, grnd.-y1? Lack of info. Btw. who did the start-up reports for warranty issues. All thermostats have anticipator settings for heating and cooling. Cooling are usually fixed. These help to minimize over and under shooting setpoint. Call the installing contractor back for this.

 

[LD1]

Lack of info? Y1 to common and y1 to ground both show 18v. How else would one measure y1 voltage. I thought that was a given.

I am the installer/contractor. Not sure what anticipator setting is. Didn't see that anywhere in the program or user manual. I linked the exact t-stat. Perhaps there are some hidden functions that only "experts" are aware of?

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Never set it up but I can see that being problematic if it's not completely consistent

So it fools the Tstat into thinking it's satisfied so it shuts off early

Btw your correct on checking voltage and I understood it was checked correctly, if someone knows how to work a meter and says they installed the system, it's clear they know how to check voltage correctly lol.

I will stick to the if you isolated it to the stat than its a stat issue, change the stat and I believe that will solve the problem.

If it's not a issue with the performance of the system or a voltage issue into or out of the transformer to the Tstat than it can only be a Tstat issue.

Another test would be is disconnect the R wire, the hot 24v wire and see if you still have voltage on Y1, if you do I would be looking for breaks in the insulation of the wires.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

If I met you in person I would pick the crap (****) out of your brain on installing a geothermal heatpump and how much it set you back doing it yourself, I have never seen it done before.

A regular heatpump system is nothing to install just time, if I knew how to install a geothermal I would, I'm going to convert my house to natural gas in the spring, a geo unit would be awesome. I heard there like $10k-15k or better to have installed.

 

[dadster4]

I would start by disconnecting the low-voltage wiring from the heat pump terminals and see if the voltage at Y1 to C is present... If yes, then the problem is within the heat pump itself. If not, then the problem is further downstream. Reconnect at the heat pump and check at the "base module" backplate terminals and check for Y1 to C there. If yes, be sure the base module is not shorted on the backside, and that the wiring to the heat pump is not damaged. If not, mount the base module to it's backplate and check for Y1 to C at the heat pump terminals. If yes, then the problem is with the base module.

 

[LD1]

I would start by disconnecting the low-voltage wiring from the heat pump terminals and see if the voltage at Y1 to C is present... If yes, then the problem is within the heat pump itself. If not, then the problem is further downstream. Reconnect at the heat pump and check at the "base module" backplate terminals and check for Y1 to C there. If yes, be sure the base module is not shorted on the backside, and that the wiring to the heat pump is not damaged. If not, mount the base module to it's backplate and check for Y1 to C at the heat pump terminals. If yes, then the problem is with the base module.

Pretty much what I did. I disconnected y1 from the heat pump. No voltage at heat pump on y1. 18v on t-stat wire y1. So something, either in the base module (wireless receiver), or the t-stat itself is causing the 18v.

Nothing at all to do with the HP

 

[LD1]

Well, did some more troubleshooting. Seems things may be getting worse. And I am thinking this can all be traced back to a faulty transformer. The transformer is putting out 32vac at idle. With the unit running, it drops to a more reasonable 26v.

Here is what the T-stat looks like


With the base module popped off, this is what we look like


And here is the voltage reading on the Y1 terminal of the control board in the furnace


And here is the voltage of Y1 coming off the t-stat. The yellow wire goes ONLY to the t-stat and is hooked to nothing else


And here is the same reading, only with the base module pulled out as pictured in pic 2. This leaves all the wiring attached. So this confirms there is no shorted wires. There are no wires at all in the base module or t-stat that are separated. Only circuitry


Now here is why I think things seem to be getting worse. The whole issue started with the Bard DSH pump circulating my hot water......would continue to cycle. Its method of operation is simple. Its plugged into a 120v source. Gets a 24v and common from the heatpump to power its circuitry. And a third low voltage wire, spliced into Y1 off t-stat as per bards instructions. Anytime Y1 is energized, it circulates water through the DSH, and moniters temps. If more than 2 degrees, it keeps running. If no, it shuts off for 10 minutes and tries again.

So, it is ONLY supposed to run if Y1 is energized. It seems to think Y1 is always energized because it cycles on and off every 10 min, wasting energy, and cooling off my hot water. So hopefully everyone has a clear understanding of how this unit is supposed to work, and what its doing wrong.

Now the bad. I was informed that this furnace has an "A" terminal for accessories such as this. So I unspliced from Y1 and hooked this circulating pump direct to it. Since it isnt being falsely energized by the t-stat. Well, bad news, it continues to cycle every 10 min. And measuring voltage on the bard unit, where the t-stat wire is supposed to signal it, is now showing 18v. And its not coming from the A terminal at the furnace either. Simply with control voltage present at the bard unit, and NO signal wire even hooked to it, it cycles every 10 minutes.

Here is the bard. Furnace is running. Currently measuring 28v being supplied to the bard, and getting 15v on the t-stat terminal. Causing it to cycle even with the t-stat wire unhooked.


So I am thinking that maybe the 32v coming out of the transformer toasted something?? In both the bard and t-stat?

 

[techman]

BrokeFarmerJohn:

This might give you some idea: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/74680-geothermal-heat-pump-project.html?highlight=

paul

 

[LD1]

Here was my thread on doing the ground loops and manifolds. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...geothermal-plumbing.html?highlight=geothermal

Never did do any follow ups with the unit install. But its pretty straight forward. Set the unit in the basement. Got 3 things to plumb, manifolds, furnace, and flow center. Plumb them all together and some wiring and its done. I went a little above and beyond with the DSH and bard unit. Contracted all the duct work out.