Put wrong viscosity in my Tundra truck. Forget about it?

[DEWFPO]

Leave the 5W30 in until your due for your next regular oil change. It will not harm anything as long as it meets all the other manufacturer's specs. 5W30 is not too thick for cold Ohio in the winter and the engine tolerances did not change from one year to the next when the engine viscosity spec occurred.

Just drive it.

DEWFPO

 

[Patches]

^^^ what he said^^^ I've run 0-30 Mobil 1 in my '07 Tundra 5.7 since the first oil change with no ill effects; 130,000 miles

 

[powerscol]

BEST MEN AND WOMEN IN THE WORLD!

I agree 200%. It was 30+ years ago I lived there and that event happened. Perhaps this holiday season we should do our best to help our service men and women, by treating them to coffee, lunch or dinner. Just pick up a check or store purchase. My dad taught me that as I grew up.

Merry Christmas everyone

 

[Redneck in training]

If the oil is too viscous (in example cold) the shear effect in bearing will shred the long molecules into shorter ones. I commission control systems for rotating machinery for living. Every turbine, compressor or generator has a low oil temperature interlock and can't be started until the oil is heated. The mechanical guys told me if the oil is cold it will be destroyed in bearings and has to be replaced.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I wouldn't run 20W oil in anything I owned, regardless of the OEM recommendation. I don't think any "tolerances" are that tight as to not allow 30W or even 40W oil to circulate when hot. As for the 0W-20, I would take any ones bet that it is just to raise the fuel MPG's just a slight bit so as to keep the EPA happy.
I wouldn't worry about the oil being a bit to heavy with the 30W as long as the 5W cold start up is not a problem.

Down south, I don't have the super cold startup issues but do have some 100F days in summer. I run 5W40 Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic year round in everything I own. I have never had an engine problem with anything related to oil.

 

[3930dave]

I really could go either way but am going to wait until Saturday when it's 50 degrees and change it. I do have 1800 miles and seven months on the oil so it's not that bad. If it were just changed or if it were summer, I would leave it but it's not. Winter and that thicker oil is an issue and I do know about tighter tolerances that BigBoyToys mentioned. 5W20 might be OK but 5W30 in the winter, and the tell-tale WAY higher oil pressure is a reasonable indicator that I should change. That's life and some days are donuts and some days are holes.

What concerns me the most (on this topic) with modern engines is whether or not you have a hydraulic tensioner on the cam drive. Esp. in that case, I would not want to divert far from spec viscosity in Canuck cold weather. I know that some Honda V6 are hydraulic; don't know what is on your truck.

Rgds, D.

 

[sixdogs]

What concerns me the most (on this topic) with modern engines is whether or not you have a hydraulic tensioner on the cam drive. Esp. in that case, I would not want to divert far from spec viscosity in Canuck cold weather. I know that some Honda V6 are hydraulic; don't know what is on your truck.

Rgds, D.

It appears to have hydraulic tensioner on the drive belt but that's all I could find. Is this what you mean?

Tech Feature: Toyota V8 Timing Belt Service
This is the article but I had trouble opening the page.

The more I read on this, the more I think I should be running 0W30 or at least a mix of 0W20 and 0W30. After reading some of the great posts in this thread, I researched further and now wonder if the 20 aspect of many modern oils may just be to satisfy the EPA and not necessarily be fully prudent engine wise.

 

[tcartwri]

If the engine has variable valve timing(VVT),the correct thinner oil is important to their function.
Not sure if your engine is.
Good move-just do it!

This... Same thing with the RAM 5.7. They do not like the thicker oil.

 

[DEWFPO]

I run 0W40 in everything I own year round, regardless of manufacturer's recommendation. We get down to -20F in the winter and 100+F in the summer. The Timing Chain tensioner on our Toyota FJ daily driver is hydraulic and we've owned it for 10 years with 122K miles and no issue whatsoever.

Most all manufacturers have differnet oil spec's for the same engine depending on temperature conditions, and or, for for that matter where you live. Look at the European Oil specs for the same truck, same year and you'll likely see a world of difference from what they spec we use in the USA.

DEWFPO

 

[Patches]

It appears to have hydraulic tensioner on the drive belt but that's all I could find. Is this what you mean?

The more I read on this, the more I think I should be running 0W30 or at least a mix of 0W20 and 0W30. After reading some of the great posts in this thread, I researched further and now wonder if the 20 aspect of many modern oils may just be to satisfy the EPA and not necessarily be fully prudent engine wise.

sixdogs; It depends what year and engine size your Tundra is; '07 and later 5.7s have timing chains, not belts. The earlier 4.7s had belts as did the V6s. I'm not 100% sure, but believe the later 4.6s also have chains but I have no idea what, if anything, the chain equipped engines use for a tensioner