2 vs 3 spd HST and transmission controls

[ovrszd]

They both have (I believe) the same loader on them. But I could be wrong. Not sure what telescoping arms are, but now I know to ask. Thanks!

I'm wondering if the dealer thinks you don't know much about the differences between the two models so might not be worth the money spent?? Not implying he's guiding you wrong. Just thinking maybe he's trying to sell you what you will use and not things you don't need.

I'll go back to TripleR's post, never compare the two models side by side and you'll be fine with the E.

 

[ovrszd]

I knew I was getting in over my head, but I didn't realize the water could be quite this deep. I'm still learning to swim. But I'll get there.

Yes you will. Enjoy the trip. Shopping for a new tractor is half the fun of owning it.

 

[Musdalen]

The speed thing works like this, in low medium and high, you can go 0-top speed for that range. In high range, though, you have less torque. If I have my tractor in high and try to pull a heavy log for example, the tractor won't do it, it just bogs down and the HST hits the pressure relief. In low, you have much more torque. In low range, I can hitch up at an immovable object and my tractor will spin the tires rather than bogging down.

For me, medium range is where I'm at 90+% of the time. Low has great torque, but I usually want to go more than 3 MPH or whatever it is. High is plenty fast, but I don't get enough torque to the ground. Maybe I'm wrong, but I feel like with a 2 speed I'd always be wanting a little more torque if I was in high or a little more speed of i was in low.

Does that make sense?

Indeed it does. I"m going to have to experience this. I have just the log to play with right now too. 15 ft long, about 36" in diameter. A bit light, being basswood, but wet and heavy enough. If the 3 speeds give a wider range of speeds and torque, esp. the torque, then I need to think about it more carefully.

 

[k0ua]

They both have (I believe) the same loader on them. But I could be wrong. Not sure what telescoping arms are, but now I know to ask. Thanks!

This local guy can help demonstrate extendable lower links with these videos. They say a picture is worth a thousand words.. well what do you think a video is worth?

Easier Three Point Hitch Hookup - YouTube

Hooking up a Three Point Implement - YouTube

 

[k0ua]

here is another one..

Three Point Options - YouTube

 

[k0ua]

Also don't forget that the 3038 e has a cast aluminum rear end.. mechanical gas gauge, Non removable loader and other cost savings measures.

 

[bigtiller]

You mentioned tree work in timbered areas. Has your dealer talk about the 4105? It has a base price of $28000 and has a much wider stance. I think the 3000 series may feel a little tippy when on side hills in the timber.

 

[Musdalen]

James, now I see what you were talking about. How are chiropractors supposed to stay in business if everyone has stuff like that?

I thought it was something on the loader arms, but I can see how helpful they would be on the 3 pt .


A nonremoveable loader might be a big PITA. I didn't realize that was the case. I'll have to look into that one. I might not take it off often, but not being able to do it at all would be a big issue I think.

 

[TSO]

Since you have brought up pricing as a factor, it is important to mention that there are several tractor lines from other manufacturers that will offer you much better value for your money. I encourage you to shop around for Kioti, LS, and a few other manufacturers before you make your decision.

For example, LS has the XG line which cross-shops with the Deere E series you're considering... As well as the XR line which compares to the Deere R series you're considering. You would likely be able to pick up the comparable LS tractor for several thousand dollars less than the comparable Deere tractor.

Kioti has the CK line which competes.

Massey has their own E series (1734e/1739e) which compares.

Kubota has their L series...

Bottom line, nearly every manufacturer offers a competing model, and you would do yourself a great disservice if you didn't take the time to shop around all the available manufacturers in your area. Deere makes fine products and I have nothing against them, but in my opinion they are both overpriced, and in many cases underperforming, compared to most of the competition.

If you take the time to shop around, you will likely get a better machine with better capabilities, for less money.

 

[Musdalen]

Bigtiller, I do have some hills, short and steep. I dn't have to sidehill at all, and I don't. I do have to go up and down, but no sdiweas (because they are short). Tippiness should not be a factor. Squeezing between trees is however.

 

[k0ua]

Indeed it does. I"m going to have to experience this. I have just the log to play with right now too. 15 ft long, about 36" in diameter. A bit light, being basswood, but wet and heavy enough. If the 3 speeds give a wider range of speeds and torque, esp. the torque, then I need to think about it more carefully.

While 2 speed hydro's are ok. 3 speed hydro's are better, and the Kubota 6 speed HST+ is better yet with the shift on the fly hi/lo in each range. Not that you can't get along with the 2 speed hydro.. you can.. it is just not ideal. You find yourself staying in LO range most of the time, because HI range just doesn't have the torque to do most of the work you want to do so you say "the heck with it" I will just stay in LO, to have the available torque I need, and I will just suffer the slower transport speed because I am tired of range shifting all the time. Where as with a 3 speed machine, you can do about 90 percent of your work in MED range, and still have enough torque for most loader work and still have good transport speed, only occasionally shifting to LO when you need maximum "grunt", and only occasionally needing the high transport speed with very low torque that comes with HI range, like road transport. Make sense?

 

[Musdalen]

TSO,
Kubota is close enough nearby and I have been to see them. The L3901 would be my pick out of their lineup and I do have a quote for one. It is no off my list at all. The 3901 does ave 3 speed HST. It might be the solution. But if I can understand the full differences between the E and R JDs then I'll know a lot more about the differences between the Kub and the JD models as well. A week ago, I didn't know what HST was, never mind the number of speeds, etc.

 

[k0ua]

James, now I see what you were talking about. How are chiropractors supposed to stay in business if everyone has stuff like that?

I thought it was something on the loader arms, but I can see how helpful they would be on the 3 pt .


A nonremoveable loader might be a big PITA. I didn't realize that was the case. I'll have to look into that one. I might not take it off often, but not being able to do it at all would be a big issue I think.

Yep, the 3038e is non removable. At least not without wrenches, and a couple of hours and a lot of swearwords... The bucket will come off though, and that is enough for some people. There are many many other "shortcuts" taken with the economy tractor line. It is all about how much money you have, and how much convenience and usability you want to pay for. Plus I really really don't like the low weight and aluminum rear end parts of the 3038e. But some people are doing fine with them. It is your money

 

[k0ua]

TSO,
Kubota is close enough nearby and I have been to see them. The L3901 would be my pick out of their lineup and I do have a quote for one. It is no off my list at all. The 3901 does ave 3 speed HST. It might be the solution. But if I can understand the full differences between the E and R JDs then I'll know a lot more about the differences between the Kub and the JD models as well. A week ago, I didn't know what HST was, never mind the number of speeds, etc.

It is all about learning hopefully before you lay down your hard earned "green". most of us have at least 25 or more years and many tractor mistakes behind us. We know what it is like to just be starting out on this journey. We will all try to help you in you just ask the right questions. Some of us do have differing opinions, which is normal for any group of guys about any subject, but many of us (me especially) have made a lot of tractor mistakes, and learned from them.

 

[Musdalen]

Quick attach buckets are a must and it seems that they are pretty standard. The loader itself, however, that will get me thinking a bit differently.

I could load the tires, as I have on the 8N for more weight. Aluminum? I don't know. My truck is aluminum. I like that. It ain't a tractor though. If I get abusive while tractoring it is yanking on heavy things with chains and cables and maybe there, steel would be better.

I'm starting to lean away from Es - you guys should be watching for your commission checks from JD (or Kubota, if they win in the end).

the price tag of these things is not insurmountable, but they do seem exorbitant, nonetheless. I have been looking at used (e.g, JD 3520), but the low-hour tractors seem to be mighty high priced too and no warranty, but I am keeping an eye on the used marked.

Hmm, could I be happy with a 3033R vs the 3039R? 6.5 hp for $2500?

 

[Musdalen]

You know all of these will seem like Cadillacs with the power of a D9 Dozer compared to my 8N that I've used for 15+ yrs.

 

[k0ua]

Quick attach buckets are a must and it seems that they are pretty standard. The loader itself, however, that will get me thinking a bit differently.

I could load the tires, as I have on the 8N for more weight. Aluminum? I don't know. My truck is aluminum. I like that. It ain't a tractor though. If I get abusive while tractoring it is yanking on heavy things with chains and cables and maybe there, steel would be better.

I'm starting to lean away from Es - you guys should be watching for your commission checks from JD (or Kubota, if they win in the end).

the price tag of these things is not insurmountable, but they do seem exorbitant, nonetheless. I have been looking at used (e.g, JD 3520), but the low-hour tractors seem to be mighty high priced too and no warranty, but I am keeping an eye on the used marked.

Hmm, could I be happy with a 3033R vs the 3039R? 6.5 hp for $2500?

Weight is what does work in tractors. The lighter the tractor the less it will be able to pull. With the horsepower issue, if your primary focus is to pull things, an FEL work you will not notice the lower horsepower much. If your primary focus is to run a brush hog or turn an electrical generator set, then you will most definitely notice a horsepower difference. If brush hogging you will have to adjust your ground speed slower to accommodate a load on the PTO and not having reserve horsepower to spin the PTO shaft at the required 540 rpm at the ground speed you have chosen. You will need to lower your ground speed to stay in balance. But for pulling a log out of the woods, you are never going to notice the lower horsepower. A lighter tractor can also be an advantage, for instance you are finish mowing a slightly damp acreage, The lighter tractor with adequate horsepower will tend to be a little easier on the ground. You don't need the traction gained from greater weight, you just need the horsepower to spin the PTO shaft.

 

[k0ua]

You know all of these will seem like Cadillacs with the power of a D9 Dozer compared to my 8N that I've used for 15+ yrs.

That is likely true.

 

[jgayman]

You know all of these will seem like Cadillacs with the power of a D9 Dozer compared to my 8N that I've used for 15+ yrs.

Except for the weight. My old Ford 2WD 9N with loaded tires and iron weights would drag my 4WD JD 2720 around the field all day long.

 

[beenthere]

There will be some things about your 8N that you will most certainly miss, but bet you will appreciate the new one better.