Can anybody share experiences laying fiber optic cable for data?

[hawkeye08]

If possible, hook it up and test before unrolling.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

That's why I started this thread - good info.


So let me parse your statement and add comments

Hadn't thought about warning tape

I was tentatively thinking of two primary sections: 1 section from the house to about the slope up to the driveway, about 150 feet. Then 1 section under the driveway for about 75 feet going into a 90 degree turn of an appropriate radius and then about another 75 feet up to the corner of the first shop, so I was thinking the second section would be about 150'. The 100' rule is based on the common max fish tape length of 125'. Never seen one longer. most long underground runs usually have a pull string installed as the pipe is assembled unless in a long roll. The the fish tape is pulled in with that. You could even install the cable that way and save a step, but the cable is vulnerable somewhat.

As I wrote previously I'll probably be doing this by myself or with relative help. I planned to lay out the pipe cut into subsections small enough to easily pull through, with them either on the ground or in the ditch, then put the subsections together get them in the ditch and carefully cover.
Will I still need a pull box every 100 feet? Could I get by with one at about the half way point, beside the driveway?
How long a section do you think I could pull ? The cable weighs 64 lbs/km. I'm planning on pulling about a tenth of that, so say 10 lbs max. KEEP the dirt out of it. You will be surprised how heavy that 10#s gets when you add friction, especially around bends. As you are using ready made ends; those connectors will add a lot of friction and tend to snag on coupling edges. Why fight it, put the pull boxes (hand holes) in to reduce the frustration factor.

I planning on using a 1.25" ID poly pipe, and planned on a gradual sweep. What about those ready made ends? How much larger will the gob you are pulling through get? On commercial jobs we always always used 2" from the street (manhole or pole) to inside the building for insurance.
any recommendations for slickum? It is what electricians call the wire pulling compound they use. It is a soap/glycerin compound. The expensive variety is called KY Jelly)
I wouldn't call the pipe "cheap" compared to fiber. One place DLW has 450' of for $247.50 (plus $170 for termination). The translators look like about $100@. The pipe at HD - 1-1/4 in. x 300 ft. IPS 100 PSI UTY Poly Pipe is $174 for the 300 feet. For 2" 80 PSI, 300 ft it would be $404. The labor is free (me) and the ditch is for another project. Boy fiber has sure come down in price in the last 10 years. 2" DWV PVC 20' length water pipe is $1/FT at Lowes. The cable does not care about the value of the pipe, only the protection it gives. Yeah on Gov jobs we specified some pretty expensive stuff with no value added.
One more thing, plug the raceway with "Pug Duct Seal" when done to keep bugs and mice out of the pipe. Mice will go along way and tend to chew stuff up as they go. Lowes has it.
Thanks for the pointers!

LOL, Ron

LOL Ron

 

[newbury]

<snip> The 100' rule is based on the common max fish tape length of 125'. Never seen one longer. most long underground runs usually have a pull string installed as the pipe is assembled unless in a long roll. The the fish tape is pulled in with that. You could even install the cable that way and save a step, but the cable is vulnerable somewhat.

I was planning on the old "vacuum/plastic bag/string trick" (/edit - note the guy tried 3 times and I was LFMAO) Looking at a number of SUCCESSFUL videos it appears that pulling the string, a"fish line", then the cable 150' should be relatively easy. Few of the vids used lube. For the "fish tape" I was planning on using a saltwater fishing reel w/ real Heavy Duty line, or some 1/4 inch nylon rope so length is not very important.

<snip> KEEP the dirt out of it. You will be surprised how heavy that 10#s gets when you add friction, especially around bends. As you are using ready made ends; those connectors will add a lot of friction and tend to snag on coupling edges. Why fight it, put the pull boxes (hand holes) in to reduce the frustration factor.

I'm only"fighting" putting pull boxes at 100 foot intervals. I'll probably put one in about the middle where it will be out of the way of mowing and traffic
I've only one bend and I was planning on laying it straight, pulling, then bending it when I placed it in the trench. If the 150' section from the building to the "breakout box" is all 1 piece there won't be any coupling edges, if it's 2 piece only one joint.

<snip>What about those ready made ends? How much larger will the gob you are pulling through get? On commercial jobs we always always used 2" from the street (manhole or pole) to inside the building for insurance.
any recommendations for slickum? It is what electricians call the wire pulling compound they use. It is a soap/glycerin compound. The expensive variety is called KY Jelly)

The max diameter of the "pulling basket" if I go 6 strand will be 3/4". The Pull Eyes (pulling baskets) are made from Super strong polyethylene mesh and feature a free-spinning buckle to eliminate twisting, thus it reads like they should slide easily.

<snip>
One more thing, plug the raceway with "Pug Duct Seal" when done to keep bugs and mice out of the pipe. Mice will go along way and tend to chew stuff up as they go. Lowes has it.

Thanks, another good suggestion.

/edit - Darn, I was looking at the price of fusion splicers to terminate Fiber and found on Alibaba the ILSINTECH SWIFT KF4A Splice-On Fusion Splicer for < $2,000, and I found it in the States for $7,500. That's a big diff in price. My Dad would probably have bought one!
/edit 3 - in the firt vid I reference the guy only tried 2 times, not 3

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

For the "fish tape" I was planning on using a saltwater fishing reel w/ real Heavy Duty line, or some 1/4 inch nylon rope so length is not very important.

I have found the braided poly is very effective, and cheaper than the nylon. It's also very slick, reducing the friction.

Shop Lehigh 1/4-in x 1-ft Yellow Braided Polypropylene Rope at Lowes.com

 

[lennyzx11]

I definitely agree with

I too remember my first computer, a Radio Shack TRS80 with a cassette tape back up drive and a 5.5in optional floppy! Experience tells me now to buy the best you can't afford. :laughing:

Off the subject. My first one. I had a Radio Shack Color Computer 2. I remember to this day paying 500 bucks plus for the optional 5 1/4 floppy and the 10 Megabyte external drive.
Yesterday, I picked up a "throwaway" tablet brand new for less than 100 bucks just because.

 

[newbury]

I have found the braided poly is very effective, and cheaper than the nylon. It's also very slick, reducing the friction.

Shop Lehigh 1/4-in x 1-ft Yellow Braided Polypropylene Rope at Lowes.com

Yes that may be cheaper but since I got my place in Mississippi I've started buying the BIG roles of rope and twine. I've almost gone through a 300 foot roll of 1/2 inch and maybe 150' of a 600' roll of 1/4 inch. So I've got a little on hand Remember - Sam Gamgees Grandfather told him to always bring rope. That and a sharp knife has gotten me through many a situation where others have been unable to accomplish the task.

Off the subject. My first one. I had a Radio Shack Color Computer 2. I remember to this day paying 500 bucks plus for the optional 5 1/4 floppy and the 10 Megabyte external drive.
Yesterday, I picked up a "throwaway" tablet brand new for less than 100 bucks just because.

WOW!! I'm jealous! I had to operate with a cassette recorder until I bought my first Intel based computer, a PC-Limited 286 with floppies, a hard drive came later.

Back then it would have taken a long time for me to generate enough data to use a gigabyte network for a few seconds

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Newbury, you seem to be someone that believes in pre-planning your work. Here are 3 web sites relating to what your are contemplating. They will lead you into a lot more info plus there are many U-Tube videos on the web. Be careful with the how to videos as a lot of them are by novices that may provide bad info. I would stay with the experts on those 3 sites.http://www.polywater.com/commcabl.html [url=http://ecmweb.com/content/setting-your-fiber-optic-cable-pull]Setting Up For Your Fiber-Optic Cable Pull http://www.thefoa.org/tech/ref/OSP/install.html[/URL] The FOA Reference For Fiber Optics - Fiber Optic Installation

Ron

 

[newbury]

Newbury, you seem to be someone that believes in pre-planning your work. Here are 3 web sites relating to what your are contemplating. They will lead you into a lot more info plus there are many U-Tube videos on the web. Be careful with the how to videos as a lot of them are by novices that may provide bad info. I would stay with the experts on those 3 sites.http://www.polywater.com/commcabl.html [url=http://ecmweb.com/content/setting-your-fiber-optic-cable-pull]Setting Up For Your Fiber-Optic Cable Pull http://www.thefoa.org/tech/ref/OSP/install.html[/URL] The FOA Reference For Fiber Optics - Fiber Optic Installation

Ron

Yes, as I wrote it's cool and wet outside. I'd rather spend time planning.

And thanks for the links, I'd read/rather watch them than SWMBO's cooking shows.

Did any of you watch the link I posted earlier vaccuming a string through a pipe - YouTube ? It sort of shows what NOT to do when sucking a line through a tube.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I blew a mouse and strong string through five hundred feet of 5/8" thin wall plastic tubing as an extra measure of protection for my coax. To my amazement it actually worked and then pulled in the coax, out in the open. Actually, I lie. Thinking back, I did it in two pieces, but was still amazed.

 

[KubotainNH]

I've done the vac thing myself at home on a close to a 100' run, it was easy. I've seen cable vendors do much longer distances. Sometimes they need a pusher vac too to get it moving. I don't recall exactly how they fed the string in on the blow in side though.