Skidding logs is just the start. Then what?

[motownbrowne]

I have access to a lot of 4x8 wood skids from work I built one yesterday and it's a little less than a 1/2 cord finished size bit I don't think my tractor will handle a full cord of hardwood.

If the wood is hardwood and especially if it's green, your tractor won't want anything more than a half cord. A third would probably be better.

That's how my MX feels, anyway.

 

[arrow]

Can I add my 2 cents form an old logger's standpoint? There is nothing more efficient than taking stems out of the woods. Whether you have a forwarder, skidder or small tractor, dragging and piling as large a log/s a your machine can handle is the most efficient way bar none.
To those who find it a pain to cut stems after skidding, what do you think the crew forman would say to you if you complained about this? I know what I used to say when I became one. There are several ways to get around this: carry a small axe at blocking time and chunk off the dirty area. Since you only have to be concerned with a 1/4 inch width of cut, clear accordingly. 2. Got a hose near by? If not use, solution no.1. 3. Who gives a rats tail what dirt does to a chain (not to be an ah here but as logger, one had no choice). Get more chains, more saws and as described above, semi chisel is best for economical cutting. Days that I was on the cutting team, I'd have at least 5 chains and 2 to 3 saws with me. When the skidder started its turn, I'd put up the new chain or sharpen the one I had on there. 4. As described, skid in the winter. 5. Be sure to pick up at least one end of the log when skidding. Forget using the draw bar to skid wood. Get a winch, or a 3 point gismo to be elevate one end of the log/s. They stay 90% clean and with minimal environmental impact using this method.

As far as blocking, holding a log up as Rusty described is a more than viable way to cut up stems. Not too many of us can substantiate a processor either on a cost or production basis. My processor is my tractor which holds the logs and then pushes the logs toward the splitter. Sawyer Rob has his way he is happy with. I never touch two hands to a block. It is either log hooked or pickarooned in place. Get one or both of these and increase your production immensely. Any or all of these solutions will make cutting up firewood more enjoyable. It takes me a total of 12 days to drag out, pile, cut up and stack 5-6 cords I need for the burning season. I drag out my stems the season before I cut them up and it only takes about 3 or 4 days to skid out all the wood I need. I enjoy every minute and it's all over too soon.

 

[arrow]

Of course, this is the way I do my firewood. The ONLY way.

Hillarious. I wonder what he gets for a cord?

 

[motownbrowne]

Can I add my 2 cents form an old logger's standpoint? There is nothing more efficient than taking stems out of the woods. Whether you have a forwarder, skidder or small tractor, dragging and piling as large a log/s a your machine can handle is the most efficient way bar none.
To those who find it a pain to cut stems after skidding, what do you think the crew forman would say to you if you complained about this? I know what I used to say when I became one. There are several ways to get around this: carry a small axe at blocking time and chunk off the dirty area. Since you only have to be concerned with a 1/4 inch width of cut, clear accordingly. 2. Got a hose near by? If not use, solution no.1. 3. Who gives a rats tail what dirt does to a chain (not to be an ah here but as logger, one had no choice). Get more chains, more saws and as described above, semi chisel is best for economical cutting. Days that I was on the cutting team, I'd have at least 5 chains and 2 to 3 saws with me. When the skidder started its turn, I'd put up the new chain or sharpen the one I had on there. 4. As described, skid in the winter. 5. Be sure to pick up at least one end of the log when skidding. Forget using the draw bar to skid wood. Get a winch, or a 3 point gismo to be elevate one end of the log/s. They stay 90% clean and with minimal environmental impact using this method.

As far as blocking, holding a log up as Rusty described is a more than viable way to cut up stems. Not too many of us can substantiate a processor either on a cost or production basis. My processor is my tractor which holds the logs and then pushes the logs toward the splitter. Sawyer Rob has his way he is happy with. I never touch two hands to a block. It is either log hooked or pickarooned in place. Get one or both of these and increase your production immensely. Any or all of these solutions will make cutting up firewood more enjoyable. It takes me a total of 12 days to drag out, pile, cut up and stack 5-6 cords I need for the burning season. I drag out my stems the season before I cut them up and it only takes about 3 or 4 days to skid out all the wood I need. I enjoy every minute and it's all over too soon.

Great post!

I agree with all of this. I do occasionally process wood where it lands, so to speak, but only if it's in the way, and at a time of year when I don't want to skid because the woods are too wet. Skidding logs to a landing or any open area is the way to go. It's more efficient and also safer. It's much easier to avoid accidents if you're working on clear level ground.

 

[arrow]

Great post!

Skidding logs to a landing or any open area is the way to go. It's more efficient and also safer. It's much easier to avoid accidents if you're working on clear level ground.

Thanks. Absolutely correct and why it's done this way to say nothing of where the logging trucks need to be.

 

[chuck172]

I cut the logs where I split & stack it. Sometimes handling it with the tractor grapple. I welded a heavy bar across the upper back (just under the hinge point for the "lids") that allows me to raise the whole log up off the ground to waist height to buck it to f/w length. If I have the loader off for snow plowing duties, I'll use the rear grapple. I'm thinning for firewood and all the stems are about 12" or less and would not be able to do this with bigger wood. Yes it is one log at a time, but I like to buck up a few stems, then split, then stack. I find it easier on my back & mind to break things up, a little saw time, a little splitter time, then a little stacking time. It also saves on steps taken working relatively small piles. When getting the wood out, I'll stack (loader grapple) it off the ground on logs in a handy spot, not worrying about processing it, that's a separate operation for me.
Like dickfoster said, a lot depends on the size of your logs.

I like the way you can lift the log to be bucked. What's your loader's capacity. I wonder if my Kioti dk40 can do that.?

 

[aarolar]

If the wood is hardwood and especially if it's green, your tractor won't want anything more than a half cord. A third would probably be better.

That's how my MX feels, anyway.

I could move them on my 3pt if I really wanted.

 

[dickfoster]

Can I add my 2 cents form an old logger's standpoint? There is nothing more efficient than taking stems out of the woods. Whether you have a forwarder, skidder or small tractor, dragging and piling as large a log/s a your machine can handle is the most efficient way bar none.
To those who find it a pain to cut stems after skidding, what do you think the crew forman would say to you if you complained about this? I know what I used to say when I became one. There are several ways to get around this: carry a small axe at blocking time and chunk off the dirty area. Since you only have to be concerned with a 1/4 inch width of cut, clear accordingly. 2. Got a hose near by? If not use, solution no.1. 3. Who gives a rats tail what dirt does to a chain (not to be an ah here but as logger, one had no choice). Get more chains, more saws and as described above, semi chisel is best for economical cutting. Days that I was on the cutting team, I'd have at least 5 chains and 2 to 3 saws with me. When the skidder started its turn, I'd put up the new chain or sharpen the one I had on there. 4. As described, skid in the winter. 5. Be sure to pick up at least one end of the log when skidding. Forget using the draw bar to skid wood. Get a winch, or a 3 point gismo to be elevate one end of the log/s. They stay 90% clean and with minimal environmental impact using this method.

As far as blocking, holding a log up as Rusty described is a more than viable way to cut up stems. Not too many of us can substantiate a processor either on a cost or production basis. My processor is my tractor which holds the logs and then pushes the logs toward the splitter. Sawyer Rob has his way he is happy with. I never touch two hands to a block. It is either log hooked or pickarooned in place. Get one or both of these and increase your production immensely. Any or all of these solutions will make cutting up firewood more enjoyable. It takes me a total of 12 days to drag out, pile, cut up and stack 5-6 cords I need for the burning season. I drag out my stems the season before I cut them up and it only takes about 3 or 4 days to skid out all the wood I need. I enjoy every minute and it's all over too soon.

I'll let ya come here and cut all my wood if you have so much fun doing it. I won't even charge ya anything.

 

[motownbrowne]

I could move them on my 3pt if I really wanted.

If you want to do that, you're gonna want to do LD1's 3 remote and top and tilt kit. At least a top cylinder for lining up those forks.

Another thing to think about is that for some reason they really shorted the MX series on three point capacity. At 24" we can only lift 2310#. The smaller grand Ls lift more than that by a good margin. I'd love to know why that is, and what we can do about it.

For reference, a green cord of red oak weighs about 4900#. So half that is 2450, add the forks and your bin, and you can see where we run into problems. For softer wood, it's much more reasonable.

 

[pat32rf]

gotta agree with everything Arrow said! My trails are too hilly to haul a trailer full of logs so its one stem at a time to the woodshed. I have a gizmo I made for my 3pth so I can lift one end high and keep most of the log clean while skidding. When I do have to cut muddy or sandy logs, I try to cut so the chain pulls the crud clear of the cut, not into the log. Any short/small branches/stumps get pushed over the hill behind the woodshed.