Box Scraper Box Scraper / BoxBlade Choices?

[tman1020]

I too agree you should not go much wider than rear tires. And for the record the Countyline box blade is almost identical to the king kutter box blade from what I can tell.
That being said I would think everything attachments would probably be just about as good as you could get anywhere. So it looks like that everything attachments extreme duty fits your budget perfectly so I don't see the problem unless you just want to save a few bucks and think you can get away with a lighter implement.
Good luck

 

[fried1765]

I too agree you should not go much wider than rear tires. And for the record the Countyline box blade is almost identical to the king kutter box blade from what I can tell.
That being said I would think everything attachments would probably be just about as good as you could get anywhere. So it looks like that everything attachments extreme duty fits your budget perfectly so I don't see the problem unless you just want to save a few bucks and think you can get away with a lighter implement.
Good luck

"County Line" is NOT "almost identical" to the King Kutter box blade.
It would appear "identical" ..... with ONLY a cursory look!

 

[fried1765]

For what it is worth: I live (winter) only 5 miles from the nearest TSC store.
I walk by their "County Line" implements every time I go there.
I would not ever even consider buying a "County Line" or Tarter Gate Mfg. implement.
They are price bottom feeders!

 

[Shaneard]

For what it is worth: I live (winter) only 5 miles from the nearest TSC store.
I walk by their "County Line" implements every time I go there.
I would not ever even consider buying a "County Line" or Tarter Gate Mfg. implement.
They are price bottom feeders!

County Line is made for the person who doesn't know if their tractor has a PTO on it or not. Their regular scrape blades bend while scraping air.

 

[Fallon]

I have a 72" KK box blade. It was a hair wide for my 60" wide L3200 (32hp, 3,500lbs loaded) For driveway work or hard ground I needed to strap a few hundred lbs of weight to the top to get it to cut.

Generally you want the box a hair wider than the track on your tractor. If it's narrower you run into big problems on subsequent passes with your tires not fitting in the cut. A few inches wider gives you room to maneuver.

Generally I'd recommend something heavier than a KK. Mine hasn't been bad or let me down, but I'm looking on Craigslist & auctions for a heavier one at a great price to upgrade my current one. Not in a rush though as my current one still works even on my new 72" wide L4060hstc so holding out for a great deal.

 

[jenkinsph]

I use a County Line rear blade on my mowing tractor to clear snow. Works well on asphalt without marking or damaging it, because it is light weight (and cheap). I push the snow backwards to clear a few customer drives and it has paid for itself many times over. I haven't ever tried it for gravel or dirt work and don't think it would accomplish much.

 

[jenkinsph]

For box blade work I prefer heavy duty all the way. Mine is 180 lbs./ft. of width, 1260 lbs. and 84" width.

 

[fried1765]

For box blade work I prefer heavy duty all the way. Mine is 180 lbs./ft. of width, 1260 lbs. and 84" width.

There is a less expensive was to have a heavy box blade.
Add weight!
Concrete, lead, steel etc.
My 60" KK box blade weighs 500 lbs. (100 lbs/ft.), but I can add as much weight as I want.
I have lots of lead available to me, but have not found the need to add weight.

 

[Fallon]

There is a less expensive was to have a heavy box blade.
Add weight!
Concrete, lead, steel etc.
My 60" KK box blade weighs 500 lbs. (100 lbs/ft.), but I can add as much weight as I want.
I have lots of lead available to me, but have not found the need to add weight.

The problem there is strength. In theory & generally in practice a heavy implement is a strong implement. A light implement will be a weaker implement. Adding weight will make it dig better, but won't stop it from pretzeling when you snag something.

My extra weight strapped to my box blade is also loud rattling around & the old cutting edges tend to shift around & try to slide off. Not to mention diminishing my visibility of the material in the box.

 

[kevin37b]

Geez , winter sets in again !

 

[MtnViewRanch]

There is a less expensive was to have a heavy box blade.
Add weight!
Concrete, lead, steel etc.
My 60" KK box blade weighs 500 lbs. (100 lbs/ft.), but I can add as much weight as I want.
I have lots of lead available to me, but have not found the need to add weight.

While you have not needed a heavier box blade that you know of, a lighter weight implement is no where as structurally sound as a heavy built implement. This is not just weight, but structurally more sound. A welded piece of 1/4" or 5/16" is no where as strong as a welded piece of 3/8" or 1/2".

So the difference is not just that one is heavier than the other, but the heavy unit is much much stronger as well. Now you add weight onto the light weight unit so that it works the same as the heavier unit, you also add all the additional stress that goes along with that weight and the additional stresses from the additional cutting capability. Once in a while use and you can most likely get away with it, but under a regular basis and that light weight unit will literally rip apart.

Another common thought is that "my light weight unit works just fine", and while that very well may be true, a heavy unit would work just that much better.

 

[CountFred]

Do you have a source for the Everything Attachments in the PNW? It seems shipping might drive the price well above comparable blades stocked locally. I like the look of some of their stuff, but it's a long slow truck ride to get to me (us). It looks like your quoted prices are higher than their website, so maybe you've factored shipping already.

I've been going through this same search recently in the Portland area, and have been having to push dealers to quote me blades that I believe will be heavy enough. They want to sell what they have stock of, and I want something 72" and significantly greater than 500 lbs. I keep hearing how 494 lbs is greater than 500 lbs, or how I can get marginally above 500 if I go to 84". I have a few applications where I'd much rather be as tight into the tractor as I can be, so want to stick at 72". I'm still concerned about getting enough weight, on a similarly sized tractor to you.

 

[RNeumann]

Do you have a source for the Everything Attachments in the PNW? It seems shipping might drive the price well above comparable blades stocked locally. I like the look of some of their stuff, but it's a long slow truck ride to get to me (us). It looks like your quoted prices are higher than their website, so maybe you've factored shipping already.

I've been going through this same search recently in the Portland area, and have been having to push dealers to quote me blades that I believe will be heavy enough. They want to sell what they have stock of, and I want something 72" and significantly greater than 500 lbs. I keep hearing how 494 lbs is greater than 500 lbs, or how I can get marginally above 500 if I go to 84". I have a few applications where I'd much rather be as tight into the tractor as I can be, so want to stick at 72". I'm still concerned about getting enough weight, on a similarly sized tractor to you.

Idaho Implement is up in the PNW. The Yanmar stuff they have is made by Woods. Don't know what shipping is compared to EA but I'd assume it's less.

 

[cerestes]

No EA source in the Northwest that I know if. I was comparing prices between their price + shipping, and local + tax.
Idaho Implements is maybe 5 or 6 hours away. Shipped the Yanmar YBS72 is pretty comparable (+/- $50) to the EA72".

At this point I'm still leaning toward EA, but likely won't pull the trigger for another week.

 

[fried1765]

The problem there is strength. In theory & generally in practice a heavy implement is a strong implement. A light implement will be a weaker implement. Adding weight will make it dig better, but won't stop it from pretzeling when you snag something.

My extra weight strapped to my box blade is also loud rattling around & the old cutting edges tend to shift around & try to slide off. Not to mention diminishing my visibility of the material in the box.

I would not be at all concerned about a 40HP tractor "pretzeling" a 500 lb. KK box blade.
Perhaps....... with the cheap TSC County Line blade.

 

[tman1020]

"County Line" is NOT "almost identical" to the King Kutter box blade. It would appear "identical" ..... with ONLY a cursory look!

I stand corrected. There is about 50 pounds difference in weight between the two. The King kutter is the heaver and rated up to 45 hp. However the lighter county line is rated up to 60 hp. I use The 74 inch behind my tractor that is only rated at around 27 hp and weighs about 4500 pounds. I have not had a problem yet "Doesn't mean I won't"and I use it mostly for hard packed dirt. In the right situation with all the rippers down it can stop my tractor in its tracks if I catch a root or stump or something.
I think for a tractor the same size and weight as mine any of them would be fine but as your weight and power goes up The beefier blade will be better. Definitely better to have one stronger than you need then to have paid a little less and break or bend a lighter one.

 

[jenkinsph]

There is a less expensive was to have a heavy box blade.
Add weight!
Concrete, lead, steel etc.
My 60" KK box blade weighs 500 lbs. (100 lbs/ft.), but I can add as much weight as I want.
I have lots of lead available to me, but have not found the need to add weight.

There are other refinements with a better box blade such as hinged tail gate and hydraulic rippers that are real improvements. Carrying capacity and physical size is part of the heavier box blade too. For light, occasional use you can get by with a lower cost box blade but if you use one as much as I do the light weight box blade does not measure up.

With ground engaging implements I much prefer to have the extra weight improve the structural integrity rather than strapping on junk to ride along with. That is my opinion, does not mean it is the best scenario for everyone.

 

[fried1765]

While you have not needed a heavier box blade that you know of, a lighter weight implement is no where as structurally sound as a heavy built implement. This is not just weight, but structurally more sound. A welded piece of 1/4" or 5/16" is no where as strong as a welded piece of 3/8" or 1/2".

So the difference is not just that one is heavier than the other, but the heavy unit is much much stronger as well. Now you add weight onto the light weight unit so that it works the same as the heavier unit, you also add all the additional stress that goes along with that weight and the additional stresses from the additional cutting capability. Once in a while use and you can most likely get away with it, but under a regular basis and that light weight unit will literally rip apart.

Another common thought is that "my light weight unit works just fine", and while that very well may be true, a heavy unit would work just that much better.

A box blade built for a 70HP tractor is overkill for a 40HP tractor.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A box blade built for a 70HP tractor is overkill for a 40HP tractor.

Until you have a 7000lb, 40 HP tractor. And again, the heavier implement simply works better, even if it is used on a smaller tractor. My 32hp tractor weighs in at 5000lbs, my box blade is 65"and is about 800lbs. I have an extremely good match IMO.

For occasional use, I'm sure that the lighter implements are fine, I know for a fact that for me they are not. I have several pieces of scrap metal because I and my dealer thought that I could get away with the lighter implements, even making attempts to always be careful just did not work out. So ultimately it was a couple thousand dollars put in the scrap pile and considered a costly learning curve.

Obviously your experiences are different.

 

[ovrszd]

A box blade built for a 70HP tractor is overkill for a 40HP tractor.

I've got a 5' KK BB that I use on my little JD2210. It wouldn't be considered a "heavy duty" BB. But it certainly is on that tractor. Every pass I am producing 100% results of the tractor's capability.

You can always lift the 3pt a touch if the tractor can't handle it. But hard to force a light BB to make that needed cut.